That freakin drop-arm ball joint.... - Page 3 - Defender Source
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  #41  
Old February 7th, 2010, 08:20 PM
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Skinny Pete
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I did this job on my old RR. I took a 1/8" round punch and sharpened into a chisel point. I used the chisel point to get the stubborn upper race started moving. there really is not very much of an edge to get a bite on. I had to resharpen it a few times. Also used copious amounts of heat from the MAPP torch. I don't see any of that happening with the arm still on the car. Put a big ass puller on the arm, get some tension on the puller, and start wanging on the arm with a hammer. It'll come off.
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  #42  
Old April 22nd, 2010, 01:37 PM
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Wade Garrett
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Yikes! I was going to give the ball joint repair kit a shot on my truck, but now I'm freaked out. That & I can't even figure out how all the pieces go together as the 'instructions' that came with it are vague at best. If I can't complete the job then it will probably have to go on a flatbed down to the mechanic. I'm thinking about just bringing it to the mechanic right off the bat.
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  #43  
Old April 22nd, 2010, 08:26 PM
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Am I stupid or can you not put a Range Rover arm on the steering box and use a regular TRE on there.
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  #44  
Old April 22nd, 2010, 08:48 PM
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Scott
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I managed to get the drop arm off with a puller (rented from autozone) and some whacking with a bfh. Getting the upper race out I got help. Took the drop arm to a shop where they heated it up real good (it was still a bit on the stubborn side).

Once the upper race was out, assembing was something like (in order):
upper race in through the bottom of arm
grease
ball joint
grease
lower race
seal/rubber washer?
spring
base plate
circlip (see tech info pages on using a caulk gun to apply pressure to the spring so you can get the circlip in)
Then apply the rubber boot over the top.
Other than getting the upper race out, mine was not too difficult for a not-too mechanically minded person with only a few basic tools.
HTH
-scott
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  #45  
Old April 22nd, 2010, 09:33 PM
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good idea but it does not give you a way to attach the upper end of the steering damper.

Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Am I stupid or can you not put a Range Rover arm on the steering box and use a regular TRE on there.
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  #46  
Old April 22nd, 2010, 11:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Am I stupid or can you not put a Range Rover arm on the steering box and use a regular TRE on there.
You can if you fit the late RRC/DI track rod behind the front axle with the damper and you use the RRC/DI drag link which is longer than the D90 one. If you offroad, you will damage the damper eventually.

You can also fit the damper in the stock location with a relocation kit from rovertym or the usual suspects.
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  #47  
Old May 4th, 2010, 10:29 AM
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Wade Garrett
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I just had my ball joint rebuilt, but brought it to a mechanic, as I was nervous I would not be able to complete the job & have to flatbed it down to him! He said it was a pain in the ass, & the $200 bill reflects that! I hate not being able to do things myself, but in this case I think it was necessary.
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  #48  
Old May 4th, 2010, 10:43 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Damn I keep forgetting to order either a rebuild kit or a new arm for my '84 110. Makes me think getting a whole arm is better than trying to rebuild.

Does anyone know if these differ per year? RN shows a single rebuild kit but rovahfarm shows 2

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-5...-drop-arm.aspx
http://www.rovahfarm.com/defenderaxl...nsionPage2.htm

Not sure if the whole arm differs per year either but rovahfarm has the whole arm for $90 too (RHD in my case).
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  #49  
Old May 4th, 2010, 10:49 AM
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$200!!!!!!! A complete new drop arm with ball joint is around $50.....
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  #50  
Old May 4th, 2010, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
$200!!!!!!! A complete new drop arm with ball joint is around $50.....
Where?
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  #51  
Old May 4th, 2010, 11:24 AM
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You guys need to work out cheaper ways to get parts... Not sure which exact one you need but here are a couple of easy examples.

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product...D.html?sort=za
http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/RANG...HD_-_late.html
http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/pro...rtno=QFW000030

Even $115 at BP, http://www.britishpacific.com/BPSite/pricelist.pdf
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  #52  
Old May 4th, 2010, 11:33 AM
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LOL, you'll notice I posted above you can get them for $90 in the US at the very least - I guess I was thinking you meant in NA.

I know how to order parts from overseas, not sure why I don't automatically order from them. Sometimes I find their sites a hassle to find things one. Yes I can get a drop arm for $50 plus shipping but expect shipping to be relatively high and sometimes rather slow. But agreed, probably still not bad considering it's $100 shipped stateside.
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  #53  
Old May 4th, 2010, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Yes I can get a drop arm for $50 plus shipping but expect shipping to be relatively high and sometimes rather slow. But agreed, probably still not bad considering it's $100 shipped stateside.
Like I said, you guys need to find better ways... I could have one for $50 all up in 2 days.... For me, shipping from the USA is much, much slower.

Edit, I did not see your post on the $90 as you must have been typing at the same time as me....
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  #54  
Old June 16th, 2011, 11:17 PM
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Replaced all 3 my ball joints today and the pitman ball too. Here's a couple of links that really helped. I used the socket method to press the upper cup out and in. I bought the ball joint puller from Harbor Freight Pt# 99849, works great without damaging the boot or having to beat the hell out of the housing. Did the job without removing the pitman arm.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14338

http://www.reedx.net/landrover/maint...nkbj/index.htm
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  #55  
Old April 11th, 2013, 05:01 PM
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Resurrecting an old thread.
I replaced the drop arm ball joint today. Drop arm wouldn't budge, tried heat ,tried hitting it, wouldn't shift came off easily 5 years ago.
Anyway ended up taking the whole steering box off complete with the drop arm. Once on the work bench more heat & more bashing finally shifted it.

Old parts came out smoothly. Had some trouble getting the top cup in all the way, problem only came to light when trying to get the circlip in. Used sockets and a bench vice to press everything in. Couldn't envisage doing this with the box on the vehicle. It's a pain to do on a work bench and a large vice
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  #56  
Old April 11th, 2013, 05:18 PM
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Don't understand why you wanted the drop arm off to redo the ball joint.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
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  #57  
Old April 11th, 2013, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Don't understand why you wanted the drop arm off to redo the ball joint.
Just easier working at a proper height with a bench vice, light, room to move, the ability to arrange things so that gravity helps, no chassis leg in the way, the arm is supposed to come off and I hate knowing that it's jammed on. It just seemed the right thing to do.
When I say old parts came out smoothly the top cup had to be drifted out and there would have been no chance of doing that with the drop arm on the steering box still on the chassis.
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  #58  
Old April 11th, 2013, 10:21 PM
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Probably a horrible idea but why not loosen the big nut and drive a few miles?
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  #59  
Old April 11th, 2013, 11:12 PM
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Jason England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
Probably a horrible idea but why not loosen the big nut and drive a few miles?
Because satan himself created the corrosion and force that holds this on ...
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  #60  
Old April 11th, 2013, 11:38 PM
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I just buy new arms. I am sure the next one I will buy a new box and a new arm.
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