That freakin drop-arm ball joint.... - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old September 19th, 2006, 03:38 AM
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Exchange basis..... that would work for me actually. Though I'm not sure my current one would be an acceptable core. The top ring on the lip for retaining the rubber boot cracked off.

-Hans
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  #22  
Old September 20th, 2006, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user
Randy- it is super easy as log as you can get the bottom cup out. but if you have time i'm sure you can find a way

Yeah I see what you mean!!! Once I removed the circlip the ball joint pieces almost fell out except for the bottom cup (socket). Nothing but powdered rust. And in typical LR style, the bottom socket is actually on top???
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  #23  
Old September 20th, 2006, 08:52 PM
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Steve the failures were not on land rovers. Both were on jeeps with large tires. On one the cast broke . On the other the arm was loose. After removing pitman you could see stipped splines. The box splines were fine. The arms look very sililar to ours. Cant hurt to carry amd maybe get home.
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  #24  
Old September 20th, 2006, 09:07 PM
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good to know JP, I have never heard of a rover one failing completely... although when I took mine out last time I could see how it is possible
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  #25  
Old October 23rd, 2006, 02:09 PM
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Back to this question, new drop arm in hand. What size nut is that where the drop arm bolts to the steering box? I've got a gear puller ready when I get the nut off, just need to know what size wrench it is.

-Hans
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  #26  
Old October 23rd, 2006, 03:02 PM
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  #27  
Old October 23rd, 2006, 03:05 PM
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oh, good. I think I have that socket in storage. Will check before I go to work.

Then, I cross my fingers about getting the thing off at all.

-Hans
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  #28  
Old October 23rd, 2006, 06:38 PM
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I had to use a puller and some heat to get mine off.
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  #29  
Old October 23rd, 2006, 08:22 PM
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I've got the puller and torch ready to go, tomorrow I'll give it a whirl and see what I break.

-Hans
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  #30  
Old October 24th, 2006, 01:15 PM
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partialhijackalert: Is this drop-arm ball joint the same style as Range Rover classics? IIRC, it is...
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  #31  
Old October 24th, 2006, 01:22 PM
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I believe so, yes. But not 100% sure.

Attempt #1 at removing the arm: Failure of the puller, teeth got goobered up.

Also, I found that 1-5/16" sockets fit that nut perfectly.

-Hans
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  #32  
Old October 25th, 2006, 01:57 PM
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Tried again, nice new puller with the cage to prevent slipping off. Broke a tooth off the puller.

I give up, $120 in broken tools now. Mechanic time.

-Hans
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  #33  
Old May 12th, 2007, 08:28 PM
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OK. Time to resurrect this thread. I've got a drop arm rebuild kit, and if I understand JP correctly, I've got to remove everything up from the underside? It seems like I have to get the ball joint and the top cup out by tapping through the hole in the bottom cup. Then go from the top and tap out the bottom cup. It ain't budging so far, so tomorrow it gets heat.

Am I missing anything?

Follow-up Post:

Upon further reflection, it seems that everything has to come out through the bottom. The spring, cap and circlip go on last from the underneath, and that pushes everything up. Is that right?
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  #34  
Old May 12th, 2007, 09:12 PM
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Yep, that is correct. All the guts drop out from the bottom, and go back in the same way. The kit should have a diagram of the order to put them all back in.

Just be careful, as there is a fairly strong spring in there, so make sure you got some goggles on when you put out the ring. Putting it all back in can get a bit tricky, since you have to compress the spring again to get the cover back in place.

Good Luck!

-Hans
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  #35  
Old May 13th, 2007, 07:58 AM
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Awesome Hans. Thanks for the confirmation. The spring and plate fell right out. I'm going to try the caulk gun/socket press as shown in the tech section. Should work..............
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  #36  
Old February 6th, 2010, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans View Post
Yep, that is correct. All the guts drop out from the bottom, and go back in the same way. The kit should have a diagram of the order to put them all back in.
-Hans
Super thread resurrection. Time to replace my ball joint, I sort of have a kit albeit w/o instructions. I took the old ball joint apart from the bottom, all came out nicely except the upper cup, which seems to be in there pretty tight. Pitman arm still on the truck. Need to make sure I try to bang/push it out the correct way.

Does it go out from the top or the bottom (bottom means it follows everything else out)? Or does this piece need to be drifted out the top? I'm assuming the former and it comes out the bottom.
TIA
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  #37  
Old February 6th, 2010, 07:27 PM
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I went through this exercise a few years ago. I went to Autozone and bought a puller with a lifetime guarantee. It broke. So did the second one. I took the steering box off and trotted down to the machine shop. It broke the guy's press. I ended up buying a used box for $100, complete with arm and functional ball joint.
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  #38  
Old February 6th, 2010, 09:20 PM
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All the parts come out the bottom, nothing comes out of the top other than the rubber dust boot.

-Hans
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  #39  
Old February 7th, 2010, 05:54 PM
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I also want to replace the ball joint, but I am also having difficulty removing the pitman arm. I have beat on it, pulled on it blastered it. Am currently driving with the nut one turn loose hoping the jarring will loosen it up. any other ideas? Afraid to use heat and ruin the steering box seal.
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  #40  
Old February 7th, 2010, 07:53 PM
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I'm still working on the upper cup with the pitman arm still on the truck and still no luck. Looking to get some heat tomorrow to see if that will make a difference.

This may help out getting the pitman arm off...
http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...30&postcount=8
Goodluck!
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