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  #21  
Old July 17th, 2016, 04:24 PM
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Chuck Burrows
94 D-90 #230
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Thermostat and Fan Clutch were recently replaced by very experienced LR / RR mechanic who has worked on my RR, LR4 and Defender for several years. Temperature gauge is acting the same way it did before and after replacement of thermostat and FC.
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  #22  
Old July 17th, 2016, 05:47 PM
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Jason England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limeport View Post
Thermostat and Fan Clutch were recently replaced by very experienced LR / RR mechanic who has worked on my RR, LR4 and Defender for several years. Temperature gauge is acting the same way it did before and after replacement of thermostat and FC.
I expect you'll be getting full refund for the pointless work done on your truck then.

At idle the engine shouldn't need the fan to regulate its temp ... Unless you are in a desert. The standard radiator setup should be more than adequate. The thermostats job is to restrict the cooling and keep the engine warm!

If you can't cool enough at idle the fan is just masking the problem.

You need 2 things.

A good radiator ... They tend to silt up at the bottom. Check the temp is even ish from top to bottom. If it's cool at the bottom it means it's silted up. Back flush, new core or new rad time.

A pressurized system. The system needs to be under pressure to cool efficiently. Do you hoss get firm when the engine is up to temp? If the don't check the radiator cap first. There was a bad batch going around once upon a time. It's also worth putting a pressure tester on while you are at it.

Or you could just ask your very experienced mechanic because he surely did all this before swapping out the parts he did.
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  #23  
Old July 18th, 2016, 12:12 AM
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Bill Campbell
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I would start with burping the system first. You might just have air in it. You ride it up on ramps or a curb so the passenger side is higher that the rest of the truck. Open the radiator cap and crank it up and let it run. If there is air in the system you can see it bubble up and spit up through the radiator. Top it off and put the cap back on and see if the problem continues.

Depending how recently the mechanic worked on it he could have gotten air trapped it in by replacing the thermostat and then not properly bleeding the system. Anyone can make a mistake.
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  #24  
Old July 18th, 2016, 09:23 AM
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Mike Doligalski
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You can also use a vacuum filling system to add coolant without any bubbles. This is pretty slick kit: https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-...words=Air+lift

Wish I had bought it sooner.
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  #25  
Old July 18th, 2016, 03:16 PM
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Bill Campbell
1994 D-90 ST
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Originally Posted by sherpamike View Post
You can also use a vacuum filling system to add coolant without any bubbles. This is pretty slick kit: https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-...words=Air+lift Wish I had bought it sooner.
My buddy used one of these and said it was awesome. I have never tried one though.

------ Follow up post added July 18th, 2016 03:18 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by wcampbel@nas.edu View Post
I would start with burping the system first. You might just have air in it. You ride it up on ramps or a curb so the passenger side is higher that the rest of the truck. Open the radiator cap and crank it up and let it run. If there is air in the system you can see it bubble up and spit up through the radiator. Top it off and put the cap back on and see if the problem continues. Depending how recently the mechanic worked on it he could have gotten air trapped it in by replacing the thermostat and then not properly bleeding the system. Anyone can make a mistake.
Sorry rereading this. Not the radiator cap but the actual fill cap on the radiator. Mine is brass but they were originally plastic.
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  #26  
Old July 17th, 2017, 08:20 PM
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Chuck Burrows
94 D-90 #230
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It was a bad fan clutch! New (replacement) Fan clutch was bad! All is good with vehicle now. Anybody want to buy a lightly used Rovers North Radiator? I am probably just going to have original radiator boiled out and replaced. What a buzz kill!
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