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  #41  
Old August 6th, 2006, 03:13 PM
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Talking

Yes a stock 300 tdi will run hot like a 2.8 TGV. In my experience. The more difficult situation is an automatic transission equipted vehicle with A/C, on the highway at speeds above 65mph. Large tires add to the load and increase the max readings. Added fueling will add to the max readings as well.

I do not think a paint booth is a real test. Load similar to highway driving and higher ambient tempuratures would be more correct.

JP

An external oil cooler could be mounted anywhere that air can flow over it. For instance where the cooler for an auto transmission goes or in front of the radiator or condensor. Recoring a radiator can be done by your local shops. I recore to r-fin dimpled tube. I have done some oversized radiators now as well. But they are more difficult to install and fabricate. Ask anyone who has or is wainting for me to get one done for them
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  #42  
Old August 6th, 2006, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I have done some oversized radiators now as well. But they are more difficult to install and fabricate. Ask anyone who has or is wainting for me to get one done for them
Dude, you build Rads? No way.....
















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  #43  
Old August 6th, 2006, 09:56 PM
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I have not found the 110/300Tdi to be a hot runner. I recently recored the radiator. I did hope to replace it wiith a custom full width job but the need to find an intercooler that would fit (I have AC) in a short time did not allow for that. In two days of driving with outside temps in the high 80's, sustained 60mph with frequent bursts of 72mph, AC full on, max EGT at 1100, sustained runs of 4 hours - and coolant temps of 190. So far so good.

I have read that generally the Tdi is a cool runner. Considering that only one model radiator is offered, if it's good enough for the hottest parts of the world why shouldn't it work here?

So, with all this radiator talk, take a look here:

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...-Radiator.html

The single core, wide fin, aluminum Corvette radiator described here may be very suitable for our V8/Tdi applications. Yes, single core and only 1-3/8" thick. So, forget your "4-core monsters".

I would certainly take a shot and have one made for my next radiator need - which may be quite soon for the 90.

Follow-up Post:

More good cooling info from the same site:

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/V8-chapte...ing-System.pdf
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  #44  
Old August 7th, 2006, 06:41 AM
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I have a single core full width aluminum rad on the way for the shop trucks 300tdi....along with a full width intercooler and separate oil cooler. It's a $2500 (just for the parts never mind the fitting) experiment.


The Tdi is still sitting on the floor so it's not overheating yet!(it does run quite nicely though)


Pendy......quit F)(*&^&^%$ around on the internet and get back to work for Pete's (or Daves) sake.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #45  
Old August 7th, 2006, 08:42 AM
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Rover offers a 3 core that most Tdi installers use and a HD 5 core radiator.
We have always installed the 5 core, perhaps this is why I haven't seen the issue?
On your installs are you using the 3 core??

As for temp tests in the paint booth, all I want to test is what the '97 gauge says as related to engine coolant temp. No, it isn't real world test but it will tell me if 220 appears as "normal" on the gauge. I don't have a dyno so that the best I can do.
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  #46  
Old August 7th, 2006, 11:35 AM
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Yes 3 and 5 core. The LR 5 core is a good version. I try to use this version which works on most trucks. But some applications need more.

I see, the paint booth is just to verify high readings on the gauge, not a high tempurature running problem. Let us know.

JP
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  #47  
Old August 14th, 2006, 11:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
To cure (with factory parts) an NAS 110 temp gauge issue use the PRC7918 "white" sender that most NAS 110 have in them and mate that to a AMR2631 gauge and remove the signal conditioner.
This seems to work OK. With the stock 110 setup, the temp gauge never went past the middle of the gauge. When I got the 110, I promptly removed the signal conditioner (but didn't change the gauge) and when it was working hard, it would now approach the red end of the gauge (which made me worry a great deal), although an infra-red thermo check on the housing showed a temp of 200-210. I changed out the gauge over the weekend (thanks Rod!) and now when the infra-red reads 190, the needle is just South of the middle. It hasn't been hot enough lately to stress test it. I'm assuming I have the right sender (the connection end is white plastic) as I can't see a P/N on it anywhere.
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  #48  
Old August 14th, 2006, 05:33 PM
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The set up you have now is identical to that found in a 1994 D90 (a system designed by Rover without the signal conditioner) so it should give you much better information.
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  #49  
Old August 14th, 2006, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
The set up you have now is identical to that found in a 1994 D90 (a system designed by Rover without the signal conditioner) so it should give you much better information.
Cool. Thanks for the good info!
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  #50  
Old August 17th, 2006, 04:17 PM
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I updated the page that started this thread to hopefully read better and give better info. for 110 owners about the signal conditioner. Let me know if it is any better:

http://www.eastcoastrover.com/110oillines.html


I'lll add pix next one I take out.

Thanks,
Mike, ECR
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  #51  
Old September 11th, 2006, 03:04 PM
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Ok. 75 deg out side.... Steady at 70mph. THats where the temp is on my truck.. I think that is acurate and normal.... Using the VDO gauge and matching sender on the Tdi
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  #52  
Old September 11th, 2006, 03:22 PM
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What's the gauge on the left?
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  #53  
Old September 11th, 2006, 03:40 PM
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volt gauge Dave
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  #54  
Old September 11th, 2006, 06:38 PM
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gauges look great! I like how it is centered when warm, easy to tell if something is a miss... any advise on the sending unit? Looking at the universal VDO sender kit... does it just skrew right in?
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  #55  
Old September 11th, 2006, 06:55 PM
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You just need the gauge and the sender #323-095 and you are good to go. It does creep up a little if you really beat on it or its really hot outside. Usually between the next two hash marks is the highest it ever went...

www.egauges.com/vdo_grou.asp?Series=Vision
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  #56  
Old September 11th, 2006, 08:23 PM
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So, where's your EGT gauge and what readings are you getting?
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  #57  
Old September 11th, 2006, 08:50 PM
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Don't have one yet... Have to look for a place to put it.. Does anyone make a pod that goes on the A pillar for gauges?
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  #58  
Old September 11th, 2006, 09:09 PM
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I would put it next to the speedo and move the fuel gauge out of there. Certainly EGT is more critical than fuel so you want it staring you in the face.
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  #59  
Old September 11th, 2006, 09:20 PM
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You ever primed a Tdi? It's no picnic.

I say pull the volts (although I like view into your system).

No need for a tach either. I've been thinking about getting rid of mine.
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  #60  
Old April 16th, 2007, 07:56 PM
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White? Sender

Per Mike at ECR...
"To cure (with factory parts) an NAS 110 temp gauge issue use the PRC7918 "white" sender that most NAS 110 have in them and mate that to a AMR2631 gauge and remove the signal conditioner.
Did this a few years ago on some 110s and put them through the ringer including up to 120 degrees at idle in our paint bake booth and the gauge told the truth as per manual checks with an infra-red hand held."


I ordered the sender part #PRC7918, and it is not white. The end that sticks out, and you plug the wire into, is red. What would be "white" in the sender?

Follow-up Post:

red?
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PRC7918.cfm

white?
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PRC2506.cfm
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