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  #1  
Old July 20th, 2015, 12:36 PM
Ai91
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Anthony
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Temp issue

My 90 has been having issues with the getting hot sitting in traffic or when I run the ac. I just replaced the fan clutch and recored the radiator and added a 4th core. A few times sitting in traffic the needle went almost in the red without the ac on. Even at highway speed with the ac on the car will still go to about 3/4 the way to the red on the gauge. Any idea what this could be?
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  #2  
Old July 20th, 2015, 12:38 PM
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Water pump.
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  #3  
Old July 20th, 2015, 12:43 PM
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I'm having the same issue
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  #4  
Old July 20th, 2015, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
Water pump.
x2 on the water pump. I suggested this in another post but others seemed disagree. My issue was only when climbing this one particular mtn pass. But as soon as I replaced it the problem never repeated itself. Guess I was lucky.

I think others had had issue with cores being too big and not effective. You might search for this issue here to see if that sounds like what you've got going.
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  #5  
Old July 20th, 2015, 12:51 PM
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Some say the 4 core hurts as the last row doesn't cool sufficiently. I went with a 3.5 rad, new viscous, and external oil cooler, and have gotten back to center. And I have a fairly spicy 4.6- still will move to 3/4 under hard use, but cools right down, and no issues when stopped/sitting. Working for me.
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  #6  
Old July 20th, 2015, 12:59 PM
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Anthony
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Thanks guys. Do you think I should stick to an oem water pump?
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  #7  
Old July 20th, 2015, 01:00 PM
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George
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Have you checked your thermostat? It might be stuck. Since you just did the rad work, I'm assuming your coolant level is good.
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  #8  
Old July 20th, 2015, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ai91 View Post
Thanks guys. Do you think I should stick to an oem water pump?
As opposed to a Shitpart (Britpart), ABSOLUTELY!
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  #9  
Old July 20th, 2015, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwmckee View Post
Have you checked your thermostat? It might be stuck. Since you just did the rad work, I'm assuming your coolant level is good.
Thermostat is good. Coolant level is good as well.

------ Follow up post added July 20th, 2015 11:05 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by javelinadave View Post
As opposed to a Shitpart (Britpart), ABSOLUTELY!
Haha ok thanks..
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  #10  
Old July 20th, 2015, 01:42 PM
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Loic Fabro
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Sorry nothing to add to help this case but I am interested to hear about water pumps.

It seems to be a very simple design with a pulley, a bearing and an impeller that moved the water.

My only experience with failed water pumps is when the bearing dies (and the "pump" makes noise/coolant leaks out).
How would a water pump lose its capabilities over time? I would not think coolant is abrasive enough to eat up the impeller.
What's the difference between OEM and other lesser part in term of the impeller (yes bearing could be lesser and die prematurely).
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  #11  
Old July 20th, 2015, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ai91 View Post
Thanks guys. Do you think I should stick to an oem water pump?
I would consider it. A friend of mine owns a small Rover shop. His little shop does lots of little stuff like this and brakes and probably 8-10 engine swaps a year. In his personal experience non-genuine parts fail more often.
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  #12  
Old July 20th, 2015, 02:29 PM
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Brett Fritzler
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You've got a '97 which should be OBDII. For the love of God just get a Bluetooth plugin and phone app so you can see the real temperature. $30 should get you both and you don't have to wonder just how hot your truck really is.
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  #13  
Old July 20th, 2015, 03:05 PM
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Second what Brett says. Have the GoPoint Bluetooth dongle; extremely precise.
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  #14  
Old July 20th, 2015, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
You've got a '97 which should be OBDII. For the love of God just get a Bluetooth plugin and phone app so you can see the real temperature. $30 should get you both and you don't have to wonder just how hot your truck really is.
What's Blue Tooth?
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  #15  
Old July 20th, 2015, 11:55 PM
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Make sure you wanter pump and thermostat work as should. Check coolant flow. If you still have coolant flow issues then you have a clogged heater core. Disconnect both heater core hoses and run a garden hose through either one and notice the flow. If you see crud come out keep running water untill it clears. If you cant unclog it find a shop to rod it out or replace it.

20 minutes after it reaches operating temp in stop and go traffic pull over and look at tye upper radiator hose. If its swollen and hard its a sure sign you have a cracked block or blown head gasket in one of the heads!
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  #16  
Old July 21st, 2015, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97-D90-736 View Post
Second what Brett says. Have the GoPoint Bluetooth dongle; extremely precise.
Extremely precise assuming the sensor is providing the right information.
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I have an ex MoD and an ex wife. The two no longer conflict with each other.
Quote:
it is not hoarding it is selective collecting
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  #17  
Old July 21st, 2015, 10:17 AM
Ai91
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Anthony
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I'll look into the Bluetooth thing.. This morning I had the issue again. Didn't have time to jump out and check the top rad hose. Truck gets hot and you can hear the engine get louder. also I noticed I'm getting a ticking noise that sounds like it's coming from the passenger side footwell. Even when I shut the ac the temp didn't start to drop after.
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  #18  
Old July 21st, 2015, 12:30 PM
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Water Wetter might help until you make necessary repairs
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  #19  
Old July 21st, 2015, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindy View Post
Water Wetter might help until you make necessary repairs
I'm using water wetter now mixed in with coolant and water.
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  #20  
Old July 21st, 2015, 12:42 PM
Departing90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindy View Post
Water Wetter might help until you make necessary repairs
The misconception that water wetter is better than coolant comes from racers using it in bikes and cars on several tracks. They use it because coolant containing propylene glycol is very slippery, is akin to black ice on a track and is banned at most tracks! You may see, and its a big maybe to get a 5-10degree reduction in temps in extreme racing conditions. Most people experience no dicference in temps with water watter and some have even reported lower temps with just plain H2O compared to water wetter. Your milage may vary.
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