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  #21  
Old July 21st, 2015, 04:45 PM
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Jason England
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Do your hoses pressurize? If they don't then the filler cap is probably faulty.

The cooling system is much more efficient under pressure and can lead to the symptoms you describe.
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  #22  
Old July 21st, 2015, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Do your hoses pressurize? If they don't then the filler cap is probably faulty. The cooling system is much more efficient under pressure and can lead to the symptoms you describe.
what exactly am I feeling for? Firmness of the hoses? I'm a newb with this stuff..
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  #23  
Old July 21st, 2015, 05:04 PM
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Basic question but what is the actual safe temp? My old truck never had an actual number. Perhaps it was better that way.
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  #24  
Old July 21st, 2015, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Ai91 View Post
what exactly am I feeling for? Firmness of the hoses? I'm a newb with this stuff..
Check when engine is cold. Grab the top black hose and squeeze it. Then run it up to temp and it should be firm ... Not hard but definitely noticeably firmer than when cold.
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  #25  
Old July 21st, 2015, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
Basic question but what is the actual safe temp? My old truck never had an actual number. Perhaps it was better that way.
I think that one of the dangers is messing with the viscosity of the oil ...
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  #26  
Old July 21st, 2015, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Check when engine is cold. Grab the top black hose and squeeze it. Then run it up to temp and it should be firm ... Not hard but definitely noticeably firmer than when cold.
just went for a quick ride and got it up to temp. Ran the ac and the temp gauge went to about 3/4 pulled over and squeezed the hose it was firm. As the car was sitting the temp gauge went almost in the red then went back down to a little more than 3/4..
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  #27  
Old July 21st, 2015, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
I think that one of the dangers is messing with the viscosity of the oil ...
Huh?
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  #28  
Old July 21st, 2015, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
Huh?
I think ( happy to be wrong ) that over heating the engine messes with the oil and even though the engine may be OK you need to change the oil as it's viscosity is messed up.
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  #29  
Old July 21st, 2015, 09:15 PM
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I'm thinking 2 things it could be ....

1. AC compressor on its way out .... mine would put additional load on the engine and cause it to run the temp up even when turned off.

2. Head gasket leaking .... pull the spark plugs .... especially the ones near the bulkhead and look for one that is much cleaner than the rest from steam cleaning.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #30  
Old July 21st, 2015, 11:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
I'm thinking 2 things it could be ....

1. AC compressor on its way out .... mine would put additional load on the engine and cause it to run the temp up even when turned off.

2. Head gasket leaking .... pull the spark plugs .... especially the ones near the bulkhead and look for one that is much cleaner than the rest from steam cleaning.
AC compressors will raise an engins temp when working perfectly well but not make it overheat in this manner.

What your refering to is a cracked block and a slipped cylinder liner. Its the block cracking that peels away the liner from the block and steam cleans the piston top / spark plug and introduces combustion gases into the coolant resulting in rapid overheating! Nothing to do with a head gasket failure.
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  #31  
Old July 22nd, 2015, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Departing90 View Post
AC compressors will raise an engins temp when working perfectly well but not make it overheat in this manner. What your refering to is a cracked block and a slipped cylinder liner. Its the block cracking that peels away the liner from the block and steam cleans the piston top / spark plug and introduces combustion gases into the coolant resulting in rapid overheating! Nothing to do with a head gasket failure.
I've experienced both these situations.

A faulty ac compressor cause over heating and a head gasket caused water to get into combustion chamber.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #32  
Old July 22nd, 2015, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
You've got a '97 which should be OBDII. For the love of God just get a Bluetooth plugin and phone app so you can see the real temperature. $30 should get you both and you don't have to wonder just how hot your truck really is.
^^^
Do you this. Could just be a gauge issue.
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  #33  
Old October 17th, 2015, 04:31 AM
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Originally Posted by gwmckee View Post
Have you checked your thermostat? It might be stuck. Since you just did the rad work, I'm assuming your coolant level is good.
I've noticed erratic temp reading. Suspect thermostat is not opening properly every time.
Notice in rockauto two different temp thermostats available. 160 degrees and 180.

Thinking is to go with the one that fully opens at 160 degree. Can't see a down side.
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #34  
Old October 17th, 2015, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
Thinking is to go with the one that fully opens at 160 degree. Can't see a down side.
MPG and emissions can be effected from running cold.
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  #35  
Old October 17th, 2015, 08:36 AM
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I have a 160 in mine. Runs fine, but not much hot air in winter without a radiator muff.
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  #36  
Old October 17th, 2015, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Angus View Post
I have a 160 in mine. Runs fine, but not much hot air in winter without a radiator muff.
Interesting. As for emissions, it's not a VW or diesel. In other words not worried!. Haven't been tested in Mass on any of our cars.
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #37  
Old October 17th, 2015, 10:36 AM
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There are many ways a head gasket could fail and one is between the cylinder and coolant causing blow by to enter coolant (although typically not with steam cleaning Pistons ) and a porous block would do the same but typically you'd see overheating more often. Regardless, the test is super simple-- just get a block tester at Napa or wherever and test the coolant for exhaust gasses. I'd do that soon as it is so quick and simple and is non invasive.

A vacuum leak could also cause lean conditions. And of course your water pump. IMHO, I think your cooling system could be able to keep up with a bad compressor-- I think you would hear belt slippage/deterioration before you'd get to a point of overheating. Exhaust/manifold leak can also be a cause (and can also be audible-- might be heard as a ticking, I suppose).

I'd also check your spark plugs and see what they tell you. Check every one of them.
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  #38  
Old October 17th, 2015, 09:23 PM
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Temp issue

Go back to the basics. You say your radiator is topped up, did you properly "burp" it, making sure there is no air trapped in the system anywhere? Happened to me last week, I had my radiator out of the truck and when I put It back together, I started having overheating issues. Took the thermostat out thinking it was maybe stuck, tested it in the kitchen in a kettle, and it was fine.

Finally checked the radiator and cleared the system out of air pockets, and that took care of it.
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