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  #1  
Old September 2nd, 2013, 12:53 PM
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temp goes up with sustained high speed

recently had a overheat issue so I'd changed all the hoses and thermostat. seemed to still be overheating and figured out that the fan clutch needed to be replaced too. did that. topped off water, ran a few cycles to get the air out. topped off the oil. regular speeds and quick run on highway, the temp on my VDO gauge read, "190". perfect.

however yesterday i took it on its first major drive since doing those things. it was a hot day and was driving at 70mph+ for 40 straight mins on what was a 2 hour drive. just before my exit, i watched the temp roll up from 190, to 205/210. I got off the exit, backed the speeed back down to 50/55mph and the temp went right back to 190deg. rest of drive no problems at those speeds. then on drive home, same thing. higher speeds sustained for 30/40 mins, the temp crept back up to just over 200. and again, when i got off the highway it would back back down to 190.

water and oil topped off...no leaks. anyone have any thoughts?
thanks.
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  #2  
Old September 2nd, 2013, 01:34 PM
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Normal....? I wouldn't be alarmed...Mine seems to operate about the same.
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Old September 2nd, 2013, 02:12 PM
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Nathan Patterson
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I was about to post the same thing. I had a similar experience Friday in northwest Florida where it was pretty warm and humid that (and most) days. It has been a problem on the trail. I am in a '94 D90.

Has anyone tried any water wetter or purple ice? I've read mixed reviews.

If not that what steps would some you more experienced or knowledgeable guys recommend to enhance the ability of the cooling system? Dual fans? Electric fan? Different radiator?

Any thoughts are appreciated.
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  #4  
Old September 2nd, 2013, 02:15 PM
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Jason Lavender
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Dont mask the problem with any of those "magic potions"...I'm recommending to Billy to move on to checking/testing the radiator and head gasket next, and fixing whatever ends up being the issue ultimately. But with everything he's done, I can only think either radiator needs to be replaced or there's a head gasket issue. Or the gauge is squirrelly, but I believe it's a relatively new VDO so doubt it.
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  #5  
Old September 2nd, 2013, 02:30 PM
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Water pump is new. Murph put it in last year and the radiator I think is original. Lav, how do I test the radiator? Thinking of its a head gasket issue, I'd see coolant in the oil, exhaust in expansion tank or even lots of vapor in the exhaust? Other than those high speeds, temp is holding pretty steady at 190
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Old September 2nd, 2013, 03:44 PM
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Pressure test the system. The pressure increases cooling efficiency. Could explain why it runs up on the off ramp.

Mine did this and eventually solved all over heat issues with new head gaskets.
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  #7  
Old September 2nd, 2013, 03:48 PM
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Some thoughts Billy-

-Was the fan clutch genuine or an aftermarket unit? Check it-even though it is new, they've been known to fail right out the gate.
-The temps you're talking about aren't all that abnormal-it's strange that it is happening at speed where the air moving over the radiator is doing all the cooling; that said...
-Were you going up a grade, downshifting, or otherwise changing the vehicle's norms? I ask b/c as I go up and down hills in western Va and WVa I'll watch my scanguage readout go from 186-188 all the way up to near 200 if it's protracted climb (maybe a little higher if ambient air temp is high and I've got both front and rear a/c on). Bear in mind that those temp variations make no difference on the idiot gauge in the cluster-it still stays just below halfway regardless of 186 or 200-204.
-A headgasket issue, unless utterly minute (for the moment), is going to give you a lot more temp and a lot more indications-at least in my experience.

I'd check the fan clutch and the radiator as the others have suggested. I also wouldn't stress on it too much. May be worth ensuring that you don't have a lot of buildup on the radiator fins (bugs, leaves, etc).
r-
Ray
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  #8  
Old September 2nd, 2013, 06:01 PM
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do you have a winch or lights in front of your radiator ? What you describe sounds like the cooling system is adequate below 55 ? So would aggree with Briggs that it sounds like your radiator is either blocked or plugged up. If you have no airflow obstructions and no a/c condensor in front of the radiator I'd pull the radiator and have it rodded out.
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  #9  
Old September 2nd, 2013, 06:27 PM
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I was having the same problems. Having gotten a new engine put in somebody said I was crazy for not spending the money for a new radiator. Bought one from atlantic british and had it installed for not a whole bunch of money. So I got the radiator, fan clutch and new belts etc done. My temp gauge almost always runs at just shy of mid range on my gauge unless it's hot and sunny and I'm going long distances, then it almost always is between 12 and 1 o'clock and god forbid I get caught in some traffic or let it idle at a stop light for too long, it will come very close to the redzone. My assumption is that as long as it's not in the red zone it's OK.
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  #10  
Old September 2nd, 2013, 07:45 PM
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Does it take a little more right foot to maintain speed? Could be blocked CATs. That will cause things to heat up.
You should be able to hear the fan when the fan clutch engages.
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  #11  
Old September 2nd, 2013, 10:42 PM
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Measure the inlet and outlet temperatures on the radiator with an infrared thermometer. A new radiator should drop about 40*F, but you likely won't see any issues as long as it is dropping more than 30*F in my experience.
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  #12  
Old September 7th, 2013, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
You can sample the temp from different locations of the radiator with an inexpensive laser pointer IR type. Im guessing you might have some cool spots (blockage)

Do you have A/C? Crap and road grime can build up between the condenser and radiator and restrict airflow as well.

-Jeff
I did try the infrared temperature. Everything seemed to check out okay. Also today I went up to Arlington motorcars because Bill up there said that he would pressure test my coolant system for free so I let him do it. It held 15 pounds no problem so it wasn't any kind of leak. However, I got a new expansion tank cap From Rovers north thinking that maybe I needed to replace my old one. I really wish I'd kept my old Because the one that Rovers north sent me goes on way to easily whereas a normal one should be pushed down turned pushed down again and then turned more in that second stage of closing it. The one that Rovers north send me goes on all too easily with your index and thumb. For those of you that no Carlos I talked with him and he said since he goes on so lightly there probably is not a proper seal between the Rubber ring on the inside of the lid that it supposed to touch inside the expansion tank therefore creating a leak at a certain pressure. So, to test back I got an old expansion tank From my buddy Paul and I then took it for a long ride at high speeds on 395. Ran that thing like a redheaded stepchild and it never thought once about going above 190. I think I found the problem and now I need to go back to Rovers north. Rovers north is my next thread on this thing I've done three orders with them in the past month and every order's been wrong. Thanks all for the input!
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Old September 10th, 2013, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray_G View Post
Some thoughts Billy-

-Was the fan clutch genuine or an aftermarket unit? Check it-even though it is new, they've been known to fail right out the gate.
-The temps you're talking about aren't all that abnormal-it's strange that it is happening at speed where the air moving over the radiator is doing all the cooling; that said...
-Were you going up a grade, downshifting, or otherwise changing the vehicle's norms? I ask b/c as I go up and down hills in western Va and WVa I'll watch my scanguage readout go from 186-188 all the way up to near 200 if it's protracted climb (maybe a little higher if ambient air temp is high and I've got both front and rear a/c on). Bear in mind that those temp variations make no difference on the idiot gauge in the cluster-it still stays just below halfway regardless of 186 or 200-204.
-A headgasket issue, unless utterly minute (for the moment), is going to give you a lot more temp and a lot more indications-at least in my experience.

I'd check the fan clutch and the radiator as the others have suggested. I also wouldn't stress on it too much. May be worth ensuring that you don't have a lot of buildup on the radiator fins (bugs, leaves, etc).
r-
Ray
Thanks Ray... As mentioned, I did do the pressure test. Arlington Motor Cars was nice enough to run through a couple checks. Luckily it all checked out. there was thought about the head gaskets, valley pan gasket...all the really bad stuff but it held all the pressure no problem. Spoke to Zack at Rovers North after I'd mentioned that the expansion tank cap didnt seem to be tight enough. They went and looked at all the genuine expansion tank caps they had and realized that they were all made incorrectly. They did find one that seemed to work and Zack threw it in the mail to me. In the mean time, I've got Paul's on there and it seems to be doing the trick. So I'm hoping thats it...until the next thing.
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Old November 20th, 2013, 08:59 AM
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Same thing. Just drove my "new" 94 d90 back from Denver to Houston after Rob at MIT checked it all out. He said cooling system was fine, radiator, etc., all looked/tested good. Got about 500 miles out, just past Amarillo & the temp gage started the erratic dance towards the hot end, pulled over several times & back to normal by time I got to side of road. After several checks saw there was a disconnected vacuum line going into intake manifold, hooked it back up, ran fine for another 4-500 miles, then same thing. Kept speed below 70, in 5th gear but would creep back up if I went above that. Never "felt" like it was running hot, top hose soft, overflow cap came off easy, no odd smoke or steam anywhere. Sitting at home now, wanna start w t-stat, go get IR tool and go from there as y'all have done. Any other easy fixes maybe intermittent sensor, gauge?
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  #15  
Old November 20th, 2013, 09:09 AM
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Soft top hose means system isn't pressurizing. Try a new cap and pressure test the system.

If it doesn't pressurize cooling is less efficient and could easily explain your symptoms.
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  #16  
Old November 20th, 2013, 09:12 AM
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Will do. Thanx Jason,
Danny
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  #17  
Old November 20th, 2013, 09:38 AM
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Could be anything from clogged radiator, to pin hole leak in coolant system to head gasket. I would use a chemical block test kit for the head gasket and i would take your radiator in and be cleaned and tested if it hasn't been done in years.
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Old November 20th, 2013, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UTRPh View Post
Never "felt" like it was running hot, top hose soft, overflow cap came off easy, no odd smoke or steam anywhere.
Wait, are you saying that the top hose was soft and the overflow cap came off easy when the whole engine was hot?
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Old November 20th, 2013, 10:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Wait, are you saying that the top hose was soft and the overflow cap came off easy when the whole engine was hot?
that's my assumption and give RN were selling faulty caps i would imagine this is pretty common ...
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  #20  
Old November 20th, 2013, 12:04 PM
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Yep, top hose was soft every time I pulled over & the overflow cap came off easy(I gently release it just in case it sprayed everywhere, I'm not fond of getting hot coolant all over me anymore). But by time I'd pulled over, temp gauge was back in the middle.
Assuming I'm gomnna replace thermostat & cap, whats best temp & brands for t-stat & overflow cap? I'm used to radiator cap being on the radiator. Gonna drain some coolant out for t-stat, do I fill it back up thru that screwdriver/nut on top of radiator on passenger side?
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