TDI fuel injection part ID please - Page 2 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #21  
Old July 25th, 2014, 12:27 PM
El Solis's Avatar
El Solis
Status: Offline
Chris Solis
Camel Trophy 110 sorta :)
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Livermore, CA USA
Posts: 537
OK so how long are we talking to change this belt for a first timer? I unfortunately am under a time constraint between work and a planned trip 8/6
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #22  
Old July 25th, 2014, 12:38 PM
Jackie Treehorn's Avatar
Jackie Treehorn
Status: Offline
A
1985 (legitimately)
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,984
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Solis View Post
OK so how long are we talking to change this belt for a first timer? I unfortunately am under a time constraint between work and a planned trip 8/6
I was a first timer and was over meticulous and it took 2 hrs, but that was with the radiator frame and breakfast removed. It can easily be done with all that stuf in there, just remover the viscous fan. No need to remove water pump on a 300.
I would recommend immediately ordering the timing kit from RN (they are probably the fastest in terms of shipping).
Without a doubt, I'd plan this before the 8/6 trip.


Like the 300 tuning thread, I had a good thread on the timing belt install where Carl or somebody was kind enough to post a PDF of the entire procedure, complete with torque values. Search for threads started by me with "timing belt" in the subject.


It's NOT that complicated. If you are competent enough to install the Alisport IC, then you're competent enough for this. I'd budget maybe 4-6 hours if you're doing this insitu (w/radiator in place) and I know it's a Capt. Obvious comment, but get a heavy section of cardboard or something else to protect the radiator when you're wrenching in there. Also, don't be me and scramble around at the last minute looking for a "dial-type" torque wrench when all you have is click-type when setting the belt tension. You're going to be horrified when you go to clean the inside of the timing case, I guaranty it! I bet it's scary in there.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old July 25th, 2014, 12:42 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,249
Registry
IMO... Set the timing with a dial gauge. The timing pin method leaves a lot of room for error.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #24  
Old July 25th, 2014, 12:59 PM
Overlander's Avatar
Overlander
Status: Offline
mark kellgren
in between D's in an 04 D2
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,531
Registry
For the timing belt change, it's ideal to remove the radiato so you can get a straight look at all the timing marks. They have to be lined up. A tooth off and you're engine won't be happy. With the radiator in, you are looking at them from an angle, so there is room for error.

Bottom line, do you feel lucky?

Pendy, highly recommended I pull the radiator for my belt change and I did. One trick I did was use a yellow paint marker, and I painted each of the timing marks on the pulleys and the casing. with those, I was easily able to see the marks and line them up looking through my AC condensor.

however, with a timing pin in the IP pulley, and the flywheel locking pin in for the crank pulley, we are really only worried about lining up camshaft pulley.

Also, make sure that when you put the idler and tensioner on from the kit, that they are sitting squarely on and fully seated. you'll know what I'm talking about when you do it. You don't want them slipping after reassembly and coming loose. reread this when you start the job.

And use a cardboard cutout to keep track of the bolts on the timing cover and their respective holes. there are different lengths that need to be put in the correct place.
__________________
Mark Kellgren
KM4BOR

ISIL and al qaeda can go F*ck themselves...
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old July 25th, 2014, 01:07 PM
Jackie Treehorn's Avatar
Jackie Treehorn
Status: Offline
A
1985 (legitimately)
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,984
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
For the timing belt change, it's ideal to remove the radiato so you can get a straight look at all the timing marks. They have to be lined up. A tooth off and you're engine won't be happy. With the radiator in, you are looking at them from an angle, so there is room for error.
Pendy, highly recommended I pull the radiator for my belt change and I did. One trick I did was use a yellow paint marker, and I painted each of the timing marks on the pulleys and the casing. with those, I was easily able to see the marks and line them up looking through my AC condensor.
And use a cardboard cutout to keep track of the bolts on the timing cover and their respective holes. there are different lengths that need to be put in the correct place.

X2 - I forgot about marking the bolt locations. Trace the new gasket on a piece of cardboard and then you'll have a really nice little map.
The high visibility paint is also a brilliant idea.


I really wouldn't want to do the belt without removing the radiator etc., for reasons Mark mentioned, but it can be done. It's just so nice when you can sit on a milk crate/chair with the entire situation staring at you directly in your unobstructed vision. I needed that confidence. Maybe when you've done a few of these and get the feel for it, removing the radiator etc. is overkill, but yeah, that it probably the way to go.


Don't let that dissuade you from doing this. You absolutely NEED to do this before your trip based on what you've mentioned and compounded by the fact that you're not afraid to wade through muddy water (which is good, but definitely would be among the reasons to inspect the inside of the case).
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old July 25th, 2014, 01:17 PM
Overlander's Avatar
Overlander
Status: Offline
mark kellgren
in between D's in an 04 D2
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 6,531
Registry
Another tip that I really enjoy over and over again, is using that highlighter on the TDC line on my crankshaft damper and then adding a line onto the bottom of my casing. it makes turning the engine to TDC with a monkey wrench very easy to put in the locking pin.
__________________
Mark Kellgren
KM4BOR

ISIL and al qaeda can go F*ck themselves...
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old July 25th, 2014, 01:20 PM
rdavisinva's Avatar
rdavisinva
Status: Online
Robert Davis
N/A
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 6,810
Chris:
May have missed this in my quick read, but did you turn up your boost to match your now increased fueling. Installing the larger intercooler will cool your intake charge, but you'll need boost to match the extra fuel. Be careful with too much boost as it can get high enough to cause crankcase pressurization on a 300TDI that will literally empty the sump of oil which is bad, very bad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
I have seen Robert Davis roll coal on a guy on a motor cycle when he was burning veg in a 300tdi. Knowing Robert I'm sure he did this by accident.
Here's one of my rigs:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater
__________________
RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old July 25th, 2014, 01:24 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,249
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Be careful with too much boost as it can get high enough to cause crankcase pressurization on a 300TDI that will literally empty the sump of oil which is bad, very bad.
How does that happen??

One other problem with high boost is the stock boost diaphragm runs out of travel and so you lose fueling control at higher boost.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old July 25th, 2014, 01:38 PM
El Solis's Avatar
El Solis
Status: Offline
Chris Solis
Camel Trophy 110 sorta :)
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Livermore, CA USA
Posts: 537
Thank you everyone! I have already ordered the kit and as usual Trevor from The Rovah Farm has already got it on its way to me because he is DA MAN!! I'll take pics of the insides. Hopefully be able to do this in stages for the next week.
I dont know how to turn up boost so no idea there.

Also this is for a 200tdi.

Updates to flow.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old July 25th, 2014, 01:47 PM
rdavisinva's Avatar
rdavisinva
Status: Online
Robert Davis
N/A
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 6,810
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
How does that happen??

One other problem with high boost is the stock boost diaphragm runs out of travel and so you lose fueling control at higher boost.
Not 100% sure, but have seen it twice on different engines.
Trimmed back the boost and oil remains in the sump.
We could propose a dozen theories, but was told that the oil actually vaporizes inside due to high pressure, sounded far fetched to me, but guess it is possible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by El Solis View Post
I dont know how to turn up boost so no idea there.
Turning up fuel and leaving boost at the current setting is only half the equation.
No wonder it smokes, your fueling is lopsided compared to boost.
You need to trim your fuel back and get your boost up.
There use to be a video on youtube that showed how to use a pressure bleed off to "re-program" the wastegate to get more boost.
We have used ones we bought on eBay.
Worked great.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...type=2&theater

Quote:
Originally Posted by El Solis View Post
Also this is for a 200tdi.
Shouldn't matter much unless you ask Shayne, but thanks for clarifying.
__________________
RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
Reply With Quote
  #31  
Old July 25th, 2014, 01:54 PM
Uncle Douglas's Avatar
Uncle Douglas
Status: Online
Doug Crowther
A defender in every driveway-motto
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gods Country- Central Virginia
Posts: 11,841
Registry
The 9mm pin is meant to simply lock the pump so timing doesn't get screwed. It is far from an end all indication timing is correct or optimized.
__________________
Good judgement comes from experience,experience comes from bad judgement.

Dividing Creek Imports
Worldwide Vehicle Shipment and Importation Service
Restoration & Modification work


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

410.693.1391


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #32  
Old July 25th, 2014, 01:57 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,249
Registry
Yes, which is why I suggested to use a dial gauge and get it correct.

Unfortunately for El Solis, he has a 200TDI and the vacuum pump is in the way for checking with a dial gauge making it more of a pain.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #33  
Old July 25th, 2014, 01:59 PM
Uncle Douglas's Avatar
Uncle Douglas
Status: Online
Doug Crowther
A defender in every driveway-motto
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gods Country- Central Virginia
Posts: 11,841
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Solis View Post
Thank you everyone! I have already ordered the kit and as usual Trevor from The Rovah Farm has already got it on its way to me because he is DA MAN!! I'll take pics of the insides. Hopefully be able to do this in stages for the next week.
I dont know how to turn up boost so no idea there.

Also this is for a 200tdi.

Updates to flow.
Not really "turning the boost up" all you can do is adjust the actuator rod and try to manipulate the waste gate into opening later. I have found this to be marginally effective and not sure it was worth the effort. Noticed no real change on my boost gauge.
__________________
Good judgement comes from experience,experience comes from bad judgement.

Dividing Creek Imports
Worldwide Vehicle Shipment and Importation Service
Restoration & Modification work


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

410.693.1391


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #34  
Old July 25th, 2014, 02:00 PM
the rover shop
Status: Offline
shayne young
89,93 & 95 camel trophy 110s 06 130
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: ft lauderdale florida
Posts: 5,225
Ohhhhhh, yours is the 200tdi... Man..that's a BIG difference.. You'll need the defibulator calibration guage and that special tool for the stratospheric balance shaft...not to mention you're using a new belt so you will need to stretch that before installing it... The 200tdi belt is a biatch to change...and no...I'm not gonna come and do it...

------ Follow up post added July 25th, 2014 02:02 PM ------

I can however send you the tools necessary for this job if you need em...
Reply With Quote
  #35  
Old July 25th, 2014, 02:03 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,249
Registry
To get more boost, you need more fuel first and then you can increase the peak with the wastegate. Personally I use a boostvalve as it is more controlled and accurate than farting with the actuator rod.

The problem is the 200TDI boost diaphram bottoms out at 13 psi or so by my testing and so fueling increase stops past that point. In order to get it to work at higher boost, you need to overfuel at lower boost levels.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old July 25th, 2014, 02:04 PM
Uncle Douglas's Avatar
Uncle Douglas
Status: Online
Doug Crowther
A defender in every driveway-motto
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gods Country- Central Virginia
Posts: 11,841
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackie Treehorn View Post
I was a first timer and was over meticulous and it took 2 hrs, but that was with the radiator frame and breakfast removed. It can easily be done with all that stuf in there, just remover the viscous fan. No need to remove water pump on a 300.
I would recommend immediately ordering the timing kit from RN (they are probably the fastest in terms of shipping).
Without a doubt, I'd plan this before the 8/6 trip.


Like the 300 tuning thread, I had a good thread on the timing belt install where Carl or somebody was kind enough to post a PDF of the entire procedure, complete with torque values. Search for threads started by me with "timing belt" in the subject.


It's NOT that complicated. If you are competent enough to install the Alisport IC, then you're competent enough for this. I'd budget maybe 4-6 hours if you're doing this insitu (w/radiator in place) and I know it's a Capt. Obvious comment, but get a heavy section of cardboard or something else to protect the radiator when you're wrenching in there. Also, don't be me and scramble around at the last minute looking for a "dial-type" torque wrench when all you have is click-type when setting the belt tension. You're going to be horrified when you go to clean the inside of the timing case, I guaranty it! I bet it's scary in there.
300 belt takes quite a bit less time to change than his 200. On a 200 a good bit more must be removed like water pump, all the v belts etc. I'd allow a Saturday afternoon for a first timer. Also his 200 is about 18 inches back from the radiator unlike your 300.
__________________
Good judgement comes from experience,experience comes from bad judgement.

Dividing Creek Imports
Worldwide Vehicle Shipment and Importation Service
Restoration & Modification work


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

410.693.1391


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #37  
Old July 25th, 2014, 02:05 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,249
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by the rover shop View Post
... The 200tdi belt is a biatch to change...and no...I'm not gonna come and do it...
It is no harder than a 300TDI. Easier in some respects as the engine sits back further making it easier to leave the rad in place.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old July 25th, 2014, 02:05 PM
El Solis's Avatar
El Solis
Status: Offline
Chris Solis
Camel Trophy 110 sorta :)
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Livermore, CA USA
Posts: 537
Thanks Shayne you are always such a pal....the guy on youtube did it in 17 min (of course the engine was on the table etc).

How hard can it be??

Almost typed that with a straight face
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old July 25th, 2014, 02:44 PM
Uncle Douglas's Avatar
Uncle Douglas
Status: Online
Doug Crowther
A defender in every driveway-motto
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gods Country- Central Virginia
Posts: 11,841
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Solis View Post
while doing 60-65. When I got to camp I cleaned the IC and was reading 950-1150 driving home (I have ac and it was on and ambient temp was 100-105F on flat roads doing 65). Climbed a big hill today (too many curves for flat out) in 3rd gear EGT's ran about 1000-1100F and no real smoke out the back. Truck is much peppier now and as long as I don't floor it there isn't much smoke. but once I do get on it it's soot out the back and EGT's sky rocket. haven't seen over 1250 since I put in the new IC. I'm hoping (as we all are) to find the sweet spot for power, engine and EGT temps, and smoke. As I live in the SF Bay Area I invested in a hippy repellant $2 "This Truck Runs On Biodiesel" sticker and have gotten thumbs up from a prius.
I have to say your truck has come a long way since it was with me. She would do 60 wide open on the interstate. Like everything you have done with her.
Cheers
__________________
Good judgement comes from experience,experience comes from bad judgement.

Dividing Creek Imports
Worldwide Vehicle Shipment and Importation Service
Restoration & Modification work


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

410.693.1391


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #40  
Old July 25th, 2014, 02:45 PM
El Solis's Avatar
El Solis
Status: Offline
Chris Solis
Camel Trophy 110 sorta :)
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Livermore, CA USA
Posts: 537
Thanks Doug that means a lot. I've tried to keep her true but make her a DD at the same time. Definitely a labor of love and $$
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
fuel, part, tdi

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Bosch injection pump spacer part hillstrubl Defender Technical Discussions 5 January 4th, 2013 08:24 AM
fuel injection orionpco Defender Technical Discussions 3 September 21st, 2010 07:44 AM
Fuel injection system Maxi fuse blowing ? TND90 Defender Technical Discussions 4 August 24th, 2009 12:32 PM
Fuel Injection Plugs rgrrvr Defender Technical Discussions 4 July 28th, 2009 03:40 PM
carb to fuel injection swap ember Defender Technical Discussions 1 April 19th, 2007 07:00 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:34 PM.


Copyright