Talk to me about R380 synchros - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 27th, 2013, 11:05 AM
Tyler Wirken
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Talk to me about R380 synchros

So I am fearing my R380 synchros are going out.

It is a rebuilt tranny from George years ago and was working fine as far as I can remember before I took the truck apart over 5 years ago.

Now since the truck rebuild the last few months it will act up occasionally and stay that way for a while then all of sudden it will be fine. It will be very rough getting into first, second and reverse. Second to third is not horrible but a bit rough and third to fourth is better than second to third.

I also have been suspecting a clutch problem and think the clutch is not disengaging far enough. Every now and then the clutch pedal will stick to the floor and if I pump the pedal I seem to get more throw and gear box engages smoother. I have bled the thing numerous times with no change. So not really sure what is going on exactly. Clutch reservoir has plenty of fluid as well.

I have no experience knowing what to expect or look for when synchros go bad. This morning things were better but still not silky smooth.

Thanks!

Tyler
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  #2  
Old February 27th, 2013, 11:14 AM
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Check your bias spring adjustment.

What oil are you using?
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  #3  
Old February 27th, 2013, 11:17 AM
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Sounds like a clutch issue to me too. 1. Fit the second spring on the pedal. 2. Make sure free play is adjusted properly. 3. Take your time shifting. 4. Run redline MTL.

After those easy things, then you start looking at replacing expensive parts.
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  #4  
Old February 27th, 2013, 11:21 AM
Tyler Wirken
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John not sure what the bias spring adjustment is. I will search though.

Using the Redline fluid. The exact one escapes me at the moment.

Was working perfect when I first put in the fluid in Sept. Shifted better than it ever has.

Thanks
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  #5  
Old February 27th, 2013, 11:29 AM
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When stopped, do you have problem putting it into gear? Is there grinding? If so, it is a clutch problem.
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  #6  
Old February 27th, 2013, 11:38 AM
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How new are the MC and slave?

What pedal assembly and spring[s] do you have on it?

Is the free play set correctly in the pedal?

Cheap and easy first as opposed to pulling the trans.
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  #7  
Old February 27th, 2013, 11:39 AM
Tyler Wirken
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Yes. That is when the problem is worse. Stopped. Will grind into reverse unless I try and double clutch or put into another gear then the gear I want etc...

------ Follow up post added February 27th, 2013 10:41 AM ------

Master and slave are not new. Hard to say how many years old. Pedal assembly is off a 94 d-90 I think. Springs must be what was stock on the 94.

I am unsure if the free play is set correctly. I will need to check that.
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  #8  
Old February 27th, 2013, 12:17 PM
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Highly suspicious of the clutch MC or slave.
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  #9  
Old February 27th, 2013, 12:50 PM
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Also look at the grub screw on the selector shaft.
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  #10  
Old February 27th, 2013, 03:37 PM
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Im with Evilfig on checking the spring that helps with returning the clutch pedal. I also remember reading on ECR years ago that what most people thought of the clutch or sychro going in the tranny was actually the O-rings going out around the selector shafts(?). Replace those and all is good again.
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  #11  
Old February 27th, 2013, 04:42 PM
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Thanks William. Where might those o-rings be?
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Old February 27th, 2013, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler Wirken View Post
Thanks William. Where might those o-rings be?
Good question.
Found this this though. http://www.eastcoastrover.com/211.html Just scroll down a couple of pictures or so. Talks about a grub screw coming loose.
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  #13  
Old March 2nd, 2013, 04:56 PM
Tyler Wirken
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Okay. Tried to bleed it again today with no improvement. I am also 99% sure it is a clutch not releasing enough problem.

So I pulled the slave as it is easier to pull than the master and all seems perfectly fine with the slave. No leaks anywhere. Smooth in side etc... Plus it does not look that old. I do remember replacing the slave at some point along the way of owning this truck so I am not suspecting the slave at this point.

The master on the other hand is probably original from 1994. I converted the truck to a 5 speed with parts from a 1994 d-90. So now I am suspicious the master needs to be rebuilt.

So one question is is it possible with the slave out to manually push the clutch fork in to disengage the clutch and test the mechanics of the fork and clutch plate etc... and see if it all releases far enough to engage gears properly? That way I would rule out anything other than hydraulics.

Thanks

Tyler
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  #14  
Old March 2nd, 2013, 08:34 PM
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Theoretically, I guess, but it is a lot of force.

It is probably the master. They all have a limited life. Also replace the flex line unless it was replaced with the slave.
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  #15  
Old March 2nd, 2013, 09:24 PM
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Sure sounds like clutch to me too Tyler.
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  #16  
Old March 3rd, 2013, 11:03 AM
Tyler Wirken
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Thanks John and Keith.

I am thinking master as well.

Gonna try and adjust pedal properly then if no go I will pull the master and replace it most likely.
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  #17  
Old March 4th, 2013, 11:45 AM
Tyler Wirken
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Yup John it was the master I believe.

Pretty wet under the boot and the seals inside are pretty nasty and degraded. So I am thinking a new master, flex hose as well as a slave rebuild kit while I am in there.

I am starting to wonder if I used the wrong fluid. I put in DOT 4 thinking that was proper. I guess I should have used Castrol LMA perhaps.
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  #18  
Old March 4th, 2013, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler Wirken View Post
Yup John it was the master I believe.

Pretty wet under the boot and the seals inside are pretty nasty and degraded. So I am thinking a new master, flex hose as well as a slave rebuild kit while I am in there.

I am starting to wonder if I used the wrong fluid. I put in DOT 4 thinking that was proper. I guess I should have used Castrol LMA perhaps.
I use synthetic dot 5. Not hygroscopic like real brake fluid. Rover brakes need all the help they can get....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid
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