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  #1  
Old January 25th, 2010, 02:02 PM
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Justin Tebbenkamp
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TAIL LAMP PROBLEMS...where can I source PARTS

I need new pigtails and bulb sockets. Rovers North part RNK9095 TAIL LAMP BOOT KIT DEFENDER 90. Can this be sourced anywhere else? ie (napa, autozone, etc) Or can I make my own? Just don't see paying $156.45 for this kit unless I have to!!!
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  #2  
Old January 25th, 2010, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tebby View Post
I need new pigtails and bulb sockets. Rovers North part RNK9095 TAIL LAMP BOOT KIT DEFENDER 90. Can this be sourced anywhere else? ie (napa, autozone, etc) Or can I make my own? Just don't see paying $156.45 for this kit unless I have to!!!
I never use the boot kit - I just wrap it with thick tape.

Go to AB and buy these:

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/XBP100180.cfm
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/8959ABP.cfm

Is that what you're looking for?
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  #3  
Old January 25th, 2010, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tebby View Post
I need new pigtails and bulb sockets. Rovers North part RNK9095 TAIL LAMP BOOT KIT DEFENDER 90. Can this be sourced anywhere else? ie (napa, autozone, etc) Or can I make my own? Just don't see paying $156.45 for this kit unless I have to!!!
These guys for the connectors:

http://www.autosparks.co.uk/

Once you get that sorted convert to LEDs and fill the connectors with dilectric grease and you'll be trouble free (or hard wire the LEDs if you want). My own 90 takes Maine winter roads and crud in stride with no more tail lamp failures. I used to have to dick with them about every snow storm.
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  #4  
Old January 25th, 2010, 03:02 PM
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For a few dollars more, you can upgrade to ECR LED lights and do away with the stupid factory connectors.
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  #5  
Old January 25th, 2010, 04:10 PM
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Jim Cheney
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ECR LEDs are the way to go. Several years back, I installed the boot kit, and you really have to work to get it to seal, and even then it seems some water finds its way in. Then the boots make it that much harder for the water to evaporate.
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  #6  
Old January 25th, 2010, 04:52 PM
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Or install 1994 style lights.
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  #7  
Old January 25th, 2010, 05:02 PM
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Make your own boots out of bicycle inner tubes ...
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  #8  
Old January 25th, 2010, 05:10 PM
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This is what works for me: I used dielectric grease on my connectors and I have a rubber mud flap in the inside of the rear most part of the wheel well only....can't be seen from the outside. It keeps water and mud off of the light connectors and the rear crossmember yet allows things to dry. Oh and I think some of the bulb sockets are the same as Discos...maybe someone can confirm.
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  #9  
Old January 25th, 2010, 07:06 PM
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Justin Tebbenkamp
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Thanks guys...I ended up going with what SMOB posted. I know LED would be far superior long term. Just can't justify $600 for that system at this point. Down the road I definitely think I'll go that route.
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  #10  
Old January 25th, 2010, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tebby View Post
Thanks guys...I ended up going with what SMOB posted. I know LED would be far superior long term. Just can't justify $600 for that system at this point. Down the road I definitely think I'll go that route.
Ok, so, THAT was a blip in the universe - it'll be the only time EVER that someone takes my advice over Ron, Jim or Mike.

<secretly planning to upgrade to LEDs after I replace about 72 other parts>
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  #11  
Old January 26th, 2010, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by SMOB View Post
Ok, so, THAT was a blip in the universe - it'll be the only time EVER that someone takes my advice over Ron, Jim or Mike.

<secretly planning to upgrade to LEDs after I replace about 72 other parts>
It was good advice. I posted before that the AB repair kit is nicer than the RN one before.
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  #12  
Old January 27th, 2010, 11:38 AM
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Don Andrews
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totally unrelated...

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
It was good advice. I posted before that the AB repair kit is nicer than the RN one before.
But I love your signature: "Dormobile parts"

Do you have a Dormie? I'm restoring my 1968 with a new frame and complete nut and bolt rebuild.
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  #13  
Old January 27th, 2010, 12:54 PM
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What I have is sort of an exestential issue at this point. When you take apart four trucks and buy thousands and thousands of dollars of parts what you call it is a matter of some debate.

But yes, I have all the dormobile bits from the 1964 dormobile donor I am putting in a 1964 109/110.
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  #14  
Old November 1st, 2010, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LRover View Post
This is what works for me: I used dielectric grease on my connectors and I have a rubber mud flap in the inside of the rear most part of the wheel well only....can't be seen from the outside.
Just curious, do you have a picture / can you describe how large the flap is and where you attached it? Where did you source such a large (I assume at least) piece of rubber flap? Truck flap?
I failed state inspection for a not working tail light and after looking at it, it turns out that the connector had corroded and the pin from the lamp was broken off (and inside the connector). I thought those were water tight.... While I fixed everything up and grease all plugs so it would not happen anytime soon, I'd like to find a better way. Oh, did I mention this happened after I worked on the truck for the past six+ months to fix the rust in the rear cross member? I'd like to not have to do that again in 10 years (or less...). I'm in the dog house for the next few months now....
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  #15  
Old November 1st, 2010, 12:23 PM
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You can also get drop in replacement LED bulbs for $15/$25 a pop. Not as ideal as the ECR solution from a water sealing perspective but cheaper.

I've been contemplating making a sheet metal part to cover the lights on the inside of the rear wheel wells. I have a boot kit but don't like the idea of snow/mud and moisture accumulating there. It's not 100%. I ordered the genuine LR solution cover for the lights (on the inside) but it's just a useless piece of plastic. I'd like something a bit more robust.

Please post pictures of your inside mud flap solution.
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  #16  
Old November 1st, 2010, 12:28 PM
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After having many issues with the rear taillight I made a mud deflector out of a piece of aluminum that I got at Home Depot. I put tow bends in it to create and kind of a z shape. Bolted the top to the tub with two bolts through the tub under the load mat in front of the speaker and bolted the other end to the muffler hanger clamp behind the wheel. Has been in place for about 9 years with no issues. I have also not had any taillamp probs since
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  #17  
Old November 1st, 2010, 12:34 PM
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Craig.

Pictures please!

I'm going to make a set myself.
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  #18  
Old November 1st, 2010, 03:30 PM
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I will try and get the pics tonite. I only put the mud deflector on the drivers side. It seems as the though the fuel filler pipe blocks a lot of the debris as I have never had a problem with the passenger side.
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Old November 1st, 2010, 04:38 PM
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I will try to get some pics tonight as well. I had some rubber matting that was the right size laying around and it worked well being flexible so as to fit up between the fuel filler. I used a truck mudflap off of a semi when I did the same thing for the 110. Anything to help keep the rear crossmember from rusting out is worth it in my opinion. Keeping the lights going is a bonus.
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  #20  
Old November 2nd, 2010, 12:40 PM
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Pics of my mud deflector. The first pic shows how it fits in the wheel well. The second pic is a close up of how it is attached to the rear tub and the 3rd pic shows a close up of how it is attached to the muffler clamp behind the tire. That 3rd pic may be too much of a close up to really see what is going on. Because the mud shield is flexible it flexes with any movement of the muffler clamp if any.
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