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  #1  
Old February 3rd, 2014, 02:42 PM
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Question T-case swap questions

I'm in the middle of swapping my 1.4 transfer case to a 1.2 from a disco and I've run into an issue that I need advice on. When I slid the new case onto the output shaft from the transmission it would not go on all the way. When I removed the inspection cover on the back of the t-case, it's got a round disc piece that fouls the output shaft of the transmission. The old 1.4 case does not have this piece. Everything else appears to be the same except the design of the inspection cover. Anyone who has swapped a disco case run into this and know if this piece can be removed? Advice is welcome!
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  #2  
Old February 3rd, 2014, 02:53 PM
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Oil Feed Plate. An aftermarket device used to ensure lubrication of the LT77's output shaft splines. Looks like an LR unit. It can be removed, but the question remains why it does not fit into your input shaft gear (which it should.) It is preferable to keep it especially if you do not have a cross-drilled input gear.

Are you using the 1.4's input gear in the 1.2? What are the suffixes on the boxes?
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Old February 3rd, 2014, 02:57 PM
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That is an oil feed disc. It was an in-service fix in 1994-1995 to get oil to the splines of the input gear to prevent spline wear on early gearboxes without cross drilled input gears. It fit applications with a ZF auto or R380. Late 1995 saw the introduction of the cross drilled input gears. You can remove it and drill the center hole larger to accomodate the threaded mainshaft of the LT77, remove it and throw it away and deal with eventual spline wear, or remove it and replace the input gear with a newer, cross drilled gear. If the LT230 is out of a Disco, it probably has a 28tooth input gear, in which case you need input gear P/N FTC5087.
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  #4  
Old February 3rd, 2014, 03:04 PM
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Yes, see if you have the cross drilled input gear before buttoning it all up.

Roadside rob is the lr transmission master in the US.
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Old February 3rd, 2014, 03:25 PM
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Is there a way, by looking at the outside of the installed transfer case, to know if it's 1.2? I recall it was stamped on it somewhere....?
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Old February 3rd, 2014, 03:44 PM
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Thumbs up

Thanks guys... I'll check the input gear when I get home, but if the oiler plate is there I doubt it's cross drilled. Probably end up drilling out the center of the plate per Rob since I'm not even sure I'll keep the 1.2 and it looks like the new gear is twice what I paid for the case.


Axel, I'm pretty sure my 1.4 is marked with something that looks like a sticker, but the 1.2 doesn't have anything on it. Might be able to tell from the serial numbers but I don't know the answer to that.
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Old February 3rd, 2014, 03:58 PM
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You can tell from the serial numbers. There is a decoder on ashcroft's website.
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Old February 3rd, 2014, 10:52 PM
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Thanks, Gentlemen.
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  #9  
Old February 21st, 2014, 12:23 PM
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Does anyone know the torque requirement for the nut that holds the drive flange on the t-case? Can't seem to find it anywhere.
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  #10  
Old February 21st, 2014, 12:30 PM
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108 to 132 lb-ft, but really the more the merrier.... Make sure you use new nuts or they work loose.

Do you not have the factory workshop manual?
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Old February 21st, 2014, 01:57 PM
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Thanks John. No, I've only got a Haynes manual and I can't find it in there.
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Old February 21st, 2014, 01:59 PM
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Google will lead you to the factory manual for download.
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Old February 28th, 2014, 11:42 AM
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I've run into another issue with this swap. The disco case has an electronic speedo drive but still uses a square drive at the connection to the t-case so I thought the defender speedo cable would still work. But it turns out the square drive is a different size. Do I need to remove the rear casing to swap out the drive? Any one else swap a disco case into a defender and run across this?
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Old February 28th, 2014, 11:50 AM
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You do not need to remove it to remove the rear drive gear. It may be a pain in the ass to yank out though
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Old February 28th, 2014, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiftRover View Post
I've run into another issue with this swap. The disco case has an electronic speedo drive but still uses a square drive at the connection to the t-case so I thought the defender speedo cable would still work. But it turns out the square drive is a different size. Do I need to remove the rear casing to swap out the drive? Any one else swap a disco case into a defender and run across this?
You don't need to remove it if you can get the old one out. Mine was seized in place, so I pulled the rear off the case off, but that only takes a few minutes and some Right Stuff.
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  #16  
Old February 28th, 2014, 01:13 PM
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Is it threaded or just friction fit? I did pry on it a little but it wasn't moving so I didn't pursue it. Of course I've already got everything back in the truck and the parking brake mounted so it's a lot harder to get to now...
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Old February 28th, 2014, 02:17 PM
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Better yet, keep the VSS and buy a VDO speedometer. You will then have an accurate speed and a gauge that can be seen day and night....

It is just friction fit.
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  #18  
Old February 28th, 2014, 02:22 PM
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putting in a VDO speedo is easy and major upgrade in terms of usability and reliability
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  #19  
Old February 28th, 2014, 04:35 PM
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go with the gps based vdo speedo

But you can fix what you have with a screwdriver gently pop the vss out and put the cable drive in.
Want to sell your 1.4 ?
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  #20  
Old February 28th, 2014, 04:44 PM
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How accurate are the gps units?

What happens when you are in an area where gps is not working like a canyon or tunnel?
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