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  #1  
Old December 24th, 2006, 03:03 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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t- case issues

I researched a bunch of threads on the site about t-case issues but haven't quite found what i'm lookin for yet. Quick back log.. on my way to rausch creek, driving up a hill in PA and a massive ear piercing squeal erupts out from under the car. Pull over look it over, can't find anything obvious. Start limping to an exit and the noise stops. It is replaced with a whine/grind. Swaped tranny fluid at some gas station and drive it home 200 miles and she didn't break down. Someone suggested to me that it might be the t-case and lo and beyold it is. Shifted the t-case to neutral, and put the car in gear (fifth), crawled underneath and all my noises are coming from the t-case. On the highway it's whinny grinding noise. Fifth gear, idle, it sounds like there is a bolt or screw rattling around in there. Grinding noises, very audible. Since it does this while the car isn't moving, it wouldn't be an output bearing, right? I have not changed the fluid in as long as i can remember. Unfortunately, I don't think there is a chance in hell new fluid is going to fix this. Any ideas what's going on? things to check for? If i drain the fluid and take off the panel on the bottom (forget the name, the one that always leaks..) is there anything i can check, clean, tighten? THanks.

p.s. My brothers defender was parked next to mine. I got in his to drive it home since mine wasn't running (it's been sitting for a while) only to find that the e-brake shoes had siezed the to the drum and refused to release despite my rubber malet. so they both aren't running. You can't keep em garaged together.. they think alike..
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  #2  
Old December 24th, 2006, 12:11 PM
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Doug Walker
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You can open the power take off cover (round plate facing aft) an inspect the input shaft from the tranny and the top gear set. That's likely where the trouble is, but just my guess since (knock on wood) this has never happened to me...

DW
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  #3  
Old December 24th, 2006, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug
You can open the power take off cover (round plate facing aft) an inspect the input shaft from the tranny and the top gear set. That's likely where the trouble is, but just my guess since (knock on wood) this has never happened to me...

DW
The input shaft loosing it's splines results in a completeloss of drive.
Grinding is likely to be bearings (quite bad but home rebuildable) or the centre diff (very bad).
I've rebuilt 2 boxes quite successfully. drop the oil & the big plate at the bottom.
The drain plug is magnetic and will probably look look a metal hedgehog. Any play in the gears, vertical or lateral means the bearings have had their day
Was the box low on oil?
Have you spun the wheels a lot with the centre diff unlocked whilst offroading 'cause they don't like that?
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  #4  
Old December 25th, 2006, 12:50 PM
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Robert Dassler
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Talking

Just pull your t-box out and send it to me....I'll rebuilt it and give it the special RDS "Toys-R-Us" rainbow paint job!
Seriously, though, if the noise is present with the t-box in neutral and the truck not moving, most likely the input or intermediate shaft bearings are shot. I would strip the box and inspect all bearings & gears and check for damage to the case as well. I have seen cases damaged from spun input bearing races. Sometimes the intermediate shaft bearings will seize to the shaft and spin the shaft. This will either wallow out the case where the shaft locates or tear up the machined boss inside the case that the bearing sits against. Having the bearings disintegrate badly enough will send a lot of metal through the gears and also cause the gears & shafts to move around & not keep the gear teeth properly in mesh. If it's bad enough & under load long enough, you can start to get some abnormal wear or even breakage of the teeth. Based on your description of the severity of the problem, I personally wouldn't muck around trying to take covers off of the box in the truck, I'd pull it out and strip it down properly.

As Far as the park brake goes...GBR is now selling the X-Brake, disc parking brake. I bought one right after the rally to try out and am very impressed with the ease of installation and the holding power. It feels a lot more solid & secure than the drum brake ever did...and access to the t-box fill plug is vastly improved.
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  #5  
Old December 26th, 2006, 04:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadsiderob
.

As Far as the park brake goes...GBR is now selling the X-Brake, disc parking brake. I bought one right after the rally to try out and am very impressed with the ease of installation and the holding power. It feels a lot more solid & secure than the drum brake ever did...and access to the t-box fill plug is vastly improved.
AH Xbrake......
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  #6  
Old December 26th, 2006, 09:07 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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Thanks for all the info. I guess it's inevitable that one day I was gonna have to learn how to pull out my T-case. Never done it before. Is this a doable job in a weekend (just getting it out). Striping it down is while different can of worms i'll deal with once the thing it out of the truck. For now though.. with just floor jacks and maybe a i can second set of hands, how easy is it to get out and then eventually put back in..
p.s. How much was that xbrake? It's not on bill's site
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  #7  
Old December 26th, 2006, 12:21 PM
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You can get the t-box out with a buddy and a floor jack if you want to. I, personally, would check the service manual. There is a set of plans for an easy to construct adapter for removing & installing the LT230. I would make this adapter and rent a proper undercar transmission jack for the weekend. A lot of equipment rental places will rent these. It's much safer for both you and the t-box and will make it much easier to reinstall. I built the adapter...I think I have all of about $20 in materials and a couple of hours of my time invested in it.
I'd call Bill (801-486-5049) for a current price on the X-brake. I think it was around $500ish at the time I bought it. You may have to replace your parking brake cable with an older style. I got one from Mike at LR Westchester. He's another really good guy to deal with.
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  #8  
Old December 26th, 2006, 02:30 PM
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I am guessing it is the center diff or an output bearing. If you want a good rebuild send it to Rob, if you just want cheap and a new center diff, you can drop it off with me outside philly and I will repair it. The third option is to find a used one out of a disco I or 87-88 Range Rover.
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  #9  
Old December 26th, 2006, 07:21 PM
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If you don't take roadsiderob's advise about the tranny jack, be prepared. You can easily remove the transfer case with a jack and friend in under 3-4 hours max. However, it is quite heavy and very awkward while under the vehicle. I have done this many times without a problem on different vehicles. The trick is to go slow and keep your hands out of the way. If you start to loose a hold of it let it go. You will not hold it, even in place, with one hand. A second person who listens helps a lot.
Be very very careful using a jack.

I would advise using a tranny jack instead since you have never done it before.
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  #10  
Old December 26th, 2006, 11:49 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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would a motorcycle lift work you think? the ones that have 2x2 platform with a foot pump. ballpark .... hoe much the t-case weigh?
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  #11  
Old December 27th, 2006, 12:16 AM
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The t-case weighs about 120lbs without the park brake. Your lift might work. How much fore & aft & side to side tilt adjustment does it have?
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  #12  
Old December 27th, 2006, 11:12 AM
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None. It's not that expensive of one.. 50 bucks at sears. It will take the weight but no tilt adjustment. There are no writeups anywhere of removing one that anyone knows of are there? I would prefer not to eyeball whatever bolts i think need to come off. I do have an online version of a service manual. Will that tell me everything I need to know?
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  #13  
Old December 27th, 2006, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
The third option is to find a used one out of a disco I or 87-88 Range Rover.
Bingo! Get Will Tillery or Paul Grant to send you a decent gearboxfor $300+/- and then drop the old one and deal with it later off the truck.
I just put an LT230 in a LWB using a floorjack and the benchpress method, not that bad. Really doesn't seem like 120lbs !!
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  #14  
Old December 27th, 2006, 06:15 PM
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You can lower the T box from above through the center cover between the seats
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  #15  
Old December 28th, 2006, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868
would a motorcycle lift work you think? the ones that have 2x2 platform with a foot pump. ballpark .... hoe much the t-case weigh?
I removed mine with my motorcycle lift, works great. Before you start taking it apart I would make sure you need to remove the TC, I thought mine was bad and it turned out to be a busted x-pin in the rear diff... so now I have an extra LT230... duh!

Or you can use an engine hoist from inside the vehicle...
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Old December 28th, 2006, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868
None. It's not that expensive of one.. 50 bucks at sears. It will take the weight but no tilt adjustment. There are no writeups anywhere of removing one that anyone knows of are there? I would prefer not to eyeball whatever bolts i think need to come off. I do have an online version of a service manual. Will that tell me everything I need to know?
I bought a nice and sturdy transmission lift with tilt adjustement for $60 at Harborfreight (if you can wait until the next special?). It was well worth it..... I saw how a friend of mine got his out with a regular jack, and it just wasn't fun. To re-install it, you'll have to have something that can hold the T-Case and roll it in so that you don't mess up the seal.
To remove it, it's probably a 4 to 6-hour job if you've never done it (will need to remove the Y-pipe and the e-brake and the interior linkage/....). Obviously.... it depends on the tools you have avail (that transmission jack and the right angle hex screw driver is a must.....)
Re-install takes less time (if you have bolts to replace the one you will brake on the Y-pipe....) because you know what needs to be done! :-)
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  #17  
Old December 29th, 2006, 05:30 AM
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This frame that I knocked up fits through the front doors of my 90 when all 4 wheels are up on car ramps.
The transfer box can then be unbolted on it's own or the transfer and main box can be dropped outwith the floor and center hatch from the seat box removed. you may as well stick a new clutch in(unless it's an auto)
while you're at it
All these jobs are easier with the body removed(it's a bit of extra work though )
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  #18  
Old December 8th, 2007, 12:18 PM
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after searching, it looks like this is the best place to put this...

How do you get the park brake cable off? Do you disconnect it at the brake handle end in the cab or the drum end underneath?

Thanks!
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  #19  
Old December 14th, 2007, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonLand
Re-install takes less time (if you have bolts to replace the one you will brake on the Y-pipe....) because you know what needs to be done! :-)
What's the best way to get the studs out of the manifold at the y-pipe connection after breaking one? Anybody have any tips? The stud is sticking out of the manifold, so I was thinking those Sears brand bolt out extractors, the ones that grab on the outside of the bolt, would work well.
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Old December 14th, 2007, 01:49 PM
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Lots of heat on the manifold and then give it a try.... good luck.
Failing that take the manifold off and drill the stud and re-tap it.
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