Swivel ball replacement or just seals? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 2nd, 2016, 09:06 PM
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Swivel ball replacement or just seals?

Ow do I know if I need swivel balls or just seals?

Obviously something needs to be done :-)
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  #2  
Old May 2nd, 2016, 09:18 PM
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As long as they are not rusty and pitted just replace the seals.

Yours look fine, just leaky.
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  #3  
Old May 2nd, 2016, 09:42 PM
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You might want to check the swivel pin pre-load as well.
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  #4  
Old May 2nd, 2016, 10:09 PM
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From what can be seen on the photo, the swivels look great. Plan for a full hub overhaul.
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  #5  
Old May 3rd, 2016, 02:04 AM
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Drain, clean the crap out of the seals, refill with the genuine grease, clean your breather. Drain the diff and see if it looks black. Black usually means the inner seal failed. Check to see if the wheel bearings are tight (any play with the wheel off the ground -- shake the tire to see). Same with the swivel pins. My guess is water got in there or the inner seal failed and allowed gear oil into the swivel housing. Often caused by a blocked breather. Any axle leak the first to do is the breather clean. In my experience that fixes half the issues or more. It it were me, the $40 or so for fluids and the hour for the service is a worthwhile first step before doing a hub rebuild. Sometimes the pitting is inside where you can't see it (especially if it has water in it). So you might get it apart and need to buy balls.

If it is a bad seal, you can cheat and cut the seal at the top, fit it, and glue it back together. I would never do that, but I have see it done successfully.
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  #6  
Old May 3rd, 2016, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Drain, clean the crap out of the seals, refill with the genuine grease, clean your breather. Drain the diff and see if it looks black. Black usually means the inner seal failed. Check to see if the wheel bearings are tight (any play with the wheel off the ground -- shake the tire to see). Same with the swivel pins. My guess is water got in there or the inner seal failed and allowed gear oil into the swivel housing. Often caused by a blocked breather. Any axle leak the first to do is the breather clean. In my experience that fixes half the issues or more. It it were me, the $40 or so for fluids and the hour for the service is a worthwhile first step before doing a hub rebuild. Sometimes the pitting is inside where you can't see it (especially if it has water in it). So you might get it apart and need to buy balls.

If it is a bad seal, you can cheat and cut the seal at the top, fit it, and glue it back together. I would never do that, but I have see it done successfully.
Honestly id rather take the swivel off than do this, ive done it once never again.
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  #7  
Old May 3rd, 2016, 04:15 PM
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+1 on swivel housing overhaul... Do it right and forget it... I've Done mine last week, not that difficult.

Here's a great video playlist on how to do it

Land Rover Front Axle Overhaul Tutorials: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...Fi5wW4YRZn-miP
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  #8  
Old May 3rd, 2016, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roverman2010 View Post
You might want to check the swivel pin pre-load as well.
x2...this caused some serious mystery leaks on my truck.
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  #9  
Old May 4th, 2016, 12:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post

If it is a bad seal, you can cheat and cut the seal at the top, fit it, and glue it back together. I would never do that, but I have see it done successfully.
Replacing Land Rover front swivel ball seals
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  #10  
Old May 4th, 2016, 02:04 AM
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I did mine the the Teri-Ann method and is still holding 7 years later.

Another way I've heard of to replace the seal is to undo the bolts that hold the axle end to the main axle and pull the swivel & brake assembly and half shaft out from the diff. Replace the seal & re-install.
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Old May 4th, 2016, 06:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viton View Post

Another way I've heard of to replace the seal is to undo the bolts that hold the axle end to the main axle and pull the swivel & brake assembly and half shaft out from the diff. Replace the seal & re-install.
That is what I did.
Just disconnect the brake lines, steering, etc., disconnect the swivel at the axle housing and pull the whole thing off and replace the seals.
Be prepared, they are HEAVY....like 3rd member heavy and awkward.


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  #12  
Old May 4th, 2016, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
That is what I did. Just disconnect the brake lines, steering, etc., disconnect the swivel at the axle housing and pull the whole thing off and replace the seals. Be prepared, they are HEAVY....like 3rd member heavy and awkward. .
I found a floor jack helped with the weight.
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  #13  
Old May 4th, 2016, 12:56 PM
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Except, he should be doing a proper full overhaul of the hub, not just the swivel seal. Hub seal should be changed, bearing checked and adjusted, swivel bearings checked and adjusted. A couple of hours per side and you know everything is in good order for years to come. You also know what to do when you break something on the trail.
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  #14  
Old May 10th, 2016, 05:52 AM
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Swivel seal

[QUOTE=evilfij;735978]Drain, clean the crap out of the seals, refill with the genuine grease, clean your breather. Drain the diff and see if it looks black. Black usually means the inner seal failed.

Assuming you are referring to the axle breather?
Did not think the swivel had one or does it?

Wheel bearing seal inside grease came out onto brake caliper, seal seemed fine.
But replaced regressed bearings also fine.
At same time swivel seal is starting to leak.
So was wondering about breather, evidently.
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  #15  
Old May 10th, 2016, 11:37 AM
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Thanks for all the input. Decided to go the full overhaul method, including replacing the balls. However, since I barely have time to do my laundry I have sent it to my local independent LR shop to have it done. $$$$$, but should be good for another 21 years...
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  #16  
Old May 19th, 2016, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMSLongLake View Post
Thanks for all the input. Decided to go the full overhaul method, including replacing the balls. However, since I barely have time to do my laundry I have sent it to my local independent LR shop to have it done. $$$$$, but should be good for another 21 years...
Curious what they charged you for this overhaul?
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  #17  
Old May 19th, 2016, 09:22 PM
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$1800ish
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  #18  
Old May 19th, 2016, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMSLongLake View Post
$1800ish
Sounds like a deal. I remember being quoted $2000-3000 for this job on a truck, thought they were crazy.
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Old May 19th, 2016, 09:59 PM
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Wow at the $$$$ How much would those custom d60 axles cost?
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Old May 19th, 2016, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
That is what I did.
Just disconnect the brake lines, steering, etc., disconnect the swivel at the axle housing and pull the whole thing off and replace the seals.
Be prepared, they are HEAVY....like 3rd member heavy and awkward.


.
Did you put loctite on the bolts when you reattached it? Which type did you use if so?
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