Swivel ball replacement or just seals? - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old May 19th, 2016, 11:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgreenspan View Post
Did you put loctite on the bolts when you reattached it? Which type did you use if so?
Yes, the blue. The hardest part is the limited access--- you have to use a wrench. Regular sockets wont fit behind the swivel ball.
90+ pounds of fun per side... my back hurts.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DMSLongLake View Post

Ended up being pitted. Could have risked just doing the seals, but then the shop would not warranty the work.
Dude, get the old swivels back- like Briggs said- those dont look bad at all.
I blew up the pic and could not see anything...


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  #22  
Old May 20th, 2016, 12:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar View Post
Yes, the blue. The hardest part is the limited access--- you have to use a wrench. Regular sockets wont fit behind the swivel ball.
90+ pounds of fun per side... my back hurts.



.
I used the blue stuff, also. I had one side back out slightly and noticed it because of the leaking fluid. Just reapplied tonight. It's possible I missed a side when I did it because I didn't see any blue one the bolt threads when I was taking them out to reapply. It was weird.
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  #23  
Old May 20th, 2016, 12:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgreenspan View Post
I used the blue stuff, also. I had one side back out slightly and noticed it because of the leaking fluid. Just reapplied tonight. It's possible I missed a side when I did it because I didn't see any blue one the bolt threads when I was taking them out to reapply. It was weird.
You can always just slather some rightstuff on them at reinstall as well if you don't have any locktite (i.e. field repair situations : ).
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  #24  
Old May 20th, 2016, 05:25 AM
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Do it right and forget,
As many other forum members suggest.
This is my best experience, forget the "cut the seal" theories
This is a Land-y it is supposed to drive you offroad not to bring kids at school

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  #25  
Old May 20th, 2016, 05:25 AM
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I have to admit that this is a job that would intimidate me, and if I had a garage with appropriate tools I'd probably give it a shot vs paying 2-3k like I was quoted once. I'm definitely jealous of you guys that wouldn't bat an eye at tackling this repair and that have the facility to do such vs being at mercy of a shop. For me it's time too, I barely have enough time to sneeze between work and two kids <3yrs.
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  #26  
Old May 20th, 2016, 05:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeBeCinYa View Post
Sounds like a deal. I remember being quoted $2000-3000 for this job on a truck, thought they were crazy.
In my country this will cost no more 300$ including parts,
I believe i should move over.
Please tell me where do you live
It sounds like a killer deal

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  #27  
Old May 20th, 2016, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by olsin77 View Post
In my country this will cost no more 300$ including parts, I believe i should move over. Please tell me where do you live It sounds like a killer deal Sent from my HTC_M910x using Tapatalk
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  #28  
Old May 20th, 2016, 02:42 PM
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😂😂😂 That is funny as hell!. But that is Bratislava. I am a bit further down, less expensive than that😂😂😂

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  #29  
Old May 22nd, 2016, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgreenspan View Post
I used the blue stuff, also. I had one side back out slightly and noticed it because of the leaking fluid. Just reapplied tonight. It's possible I missed a side when I did it because I didn't see any blue one the bolt threads when I was taking them out to reapply. It was weird.
Greenie, I was talking further upstream on the axle housing.
Here is where the swivel mounts to the housing so there is no oil to leak out; just use the blue locktite(red could be overkill)

See how tight the clearance is? You have to futz around with the closed end of a spanner and when the bolts come out they almost hit the ball...


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  #30  
Old May 22nd, 2016, 12:36 PM
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Use a ratcheting wrench for those bolts.
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  #31  
Old May 22nd, 2016, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Use a ratcheting wrench for those bolts.
It depends on the wrench; Gearwrench is too thick- it backs into the ball before the bolt is clear.


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  #32  
Old May 22nd, 2016, 01:28 PM
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It must be the one directional style.
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  #33  
Old June 23rd, 2016, 09:16 AM
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I finally dug up a picture...from my recent seal job.
My wife took a picture as I was saying "Oh crap, this thing is heaaaavy!"
Or something to that effect.

Does anyone know the actual weight? This is HEAVY!


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  #34  
Old June 23rd, 2016, 09:39 AM
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  #35  
Old June 23rd, 2016, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Let's keep it clean. We don't need to see your tail pipe love reinactment.

On a more serious note, I'd notch the bracket for the brake line while its apart, that way if you don't have to crack and bleed the brakes next time. You just unbolt the calipers and hang them with wire/zip ties.

-Jeff
That's a good idea. I'll have to look and see where you're talking about.
In this case I was actually swapping these entire outers onto another housing so brake lines had to come apart anyways...and that prompted me to do the seals!


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