Swivel & Diff leaking...which parts needed - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 11th, 2016, 04:25 PM
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Swivel & Diff leaking...which parts needed

CORRECTION ..TCase not Diff! On my 89 D90 the right side swivel is leaking...the ball looks pretty shinny without any gouging so I think it can be saved...in addition it look like the T-case is also leaking....unfortunately I am neck deep in donuts right now and don't have time to work on it myself....my local mechanic has done some work on the D90 (clutch, clutch slave, brakes)...what parts should I order and is it something he should be able to figure out how to fix or is it something a Rover guy should do...the left side swivel looks nice and leak free...I assume no reason to open up what is not broken....and just for S&G...are t-cases cheap enough (2.5TD with a L77) that it may be cheaper to just swap out with a rebuilt one?
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  #2  
Old July 11th, 2016, 04:37 PM
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Remove breather on top of axle tube. Clean metal part of breather. Blow air through plastic part of breather. Top up swivels with swivel grease. Top up diff with 85w90 or 75w90. Better to drain and refill of course. 80% chance this fixes the leaks.


That is the t-case not the diff by the way. That could be a seal or the breather again.
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  #3  
Old July 11th, 2016, 05:46 PM
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I understand perfection if that is what you are after.


But, unless it's puking so much oil that you can't keep up with it on a 2-3 week basis I'd leave it alone until something else breaks and you have a reason to take it apart.
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Old July 11th, 2016, 05:52 PM
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My tcase is wayyyy more we than that, but just looks like the rear output seal that leads to the drum brake... Its a 1 hr fix with the right tools. I have the drive shaft bolt tool of you want to borrow it. There is a rear seal and a paper gasket under the tail piece

Swivel as stated above, clean the breather and fill with grease.

Used Tcases are cheap, but not rebuilt ones. If there isn't any extreme slop in the driveline, leave it and just RE seal it.
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  #5  
Old July 11th, 2016, 05:54 PM
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The Swivel is more of a concern...I kind of expect some oil from the t-case...
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  #6  
Old July 11th, 2016, 06:12 PM
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Swivel rebuild kits

DA3167P | Swivel Kit - no ball - front axle to KA930455 - Paddock Spares

Shipping shouldn't be too bad. Normally, I'd say just do both sides at the same time, but since your're short on time, if it ain't broke, don't fix it...Note: I think the kit contains One Shot grease, which is fine.
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  #7  
Old July 11th, 2016, 07:05 PM
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It is it a terribly big job for a good mechanic...just not a Rover mechanic...
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  #8  
Old July 11th, 2016, 08:51 PM
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This video series covers it extensively and is really really good. Super entertaining and informative.

Land Rover Front Axle Overhaul Tutorials: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...Fi5wW4YRZn-miP


27 individual videos from prep to preload to end float
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  #9  
Old July 11th, 2016, 10:04 PM
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Just a tedious job, worst part is cleaning. For a non Rover mechanic, it may take more time, but if they have an LR workshop manual for your rig, shouldn't be a prob. The LR Toolbox videos on YouTube are helpful as well.


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  #10  
Old July 12th, 2016, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icnsltmfg View Post
It is it a terribly big job for a good mechanic...just not a Rover mechanic...
I like to think I'm a pretty good mechanic. Learning the ropes on the whole strange British engineering bit, but I'm more than willing to roll up my sleeves.

I've been doing this exact overhaul on my 110 and it's taken me about 2ish days to do one side taking my time, watching some videos, learning the in and outs, wire-wheeling off rust, repainting, etc.

It *IS* a major job and I can understand why this would cost well over 1k in labor alone to perform. Personally, I've chucked everything off the front corners except the swivel housing and some nuts and bolts.

If you're going all of the way down there to replace the rear swivel seal, you may as well convert to the upgraded teflon swivel joint. It's almost no more labor to do so (6? 7? more bolts, and one paper gasket) and then you'll never need to worry about that chrome thing again. Replace oil seals. Wheel bearings as necessary (I'm just chucking all of 'em).
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  #11  
Old July 12th, 2016, 12:41 AM
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Swivel seal is a simple job.

Pull calliper. Knock out tie rod ends. Unbolt swivel from housing. Pull everything off as one piece. Change seal. Put back together.

One hour per side this way. Two of you do a full hub disassembly.

There is zero strange engineering. It is a normal wheel hub.
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Old July 12th, 2016, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Swivel seal is a simple job.

Pull calliper. Knock out tie rod ends. Unbolt swivel from housing. Pull everything off as one piece. Change seal. Put back together.

One hour per side this way. Two of you do a full hub disassembly.

There is zero strange engineering. It is a normal wheel hub.
Agree, until you factor in the age of the vehicle and what type of bearing maintenance has been done. If none of this is known, it's not a bad idea to just overhaul everything. Upgrading to the teflon swivels might save some time, in that you don't have to worry about cleaning and reconditioning.

I suppose checking the pre-load and setting the end-float might be considered "strange engineering" to some...

In addition to the LR Toolbox, there's a 2-part video on swivel overhaul for those that don't want to view more than 10 videos...
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  #13  
Old July 12th, 2016, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pl626 View Post
I suppose checking the pre-load and setting the end-float might be considered "strange engineering" to some...
Bearing adjustment is the same as every other vehicle in the world prior to unit bearings taking over. It used to be that you would re-pack the bearing as a regular maintenance item on every vehicle. Back in the day, it would be your first job on the car when you were 10.

The question of the thread is fixing a leaking swivel seal on a truck with good swivels. That is simple and quick. If people want to do other things, that is not part of the original question.

Make sure you have a ratcheting wrench for the swivel bolts.
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  #14  
Old July 12th, 2016, 11:12 AM
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On the t. case leak, you need to clean it up and figure out the source. Most of the leak points are easy to fix with the box on the vehicle. The only one that needs it out is the intermediate shaft. The picture makes me think rear output seal.
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