Swapping in a rear Disco Axle Assembly - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old August 29th, 2012, 09:32 PM
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There should be zero pinion play. The bearing are meant to be preloaded. If the nut is tight you have failed bearing and must replace them.
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  #22  
Old August 29th, 2012, 09:53 PM
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What about when the nut is off? When I tighten the nut there is no play. But it has a good bit of resistance when I try to turn the assembly. More than it should.
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  #23  
Old August 29th, 2012, 10:00 PM
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With the nut off the whole thing is free. The nut holds it together. There should be resistance. Check the manual for the correct amount.
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  #24  
Old August 30th, 2012, 08:07 AM
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I found this:
"65. With the pinion flange nut tightened to a torque of
9,6 to 16,5 kgf m (70 to 120 Ibf ft)
(95 to 163 Nm)
the force required to rotate the pinion shaft should
be within 23 to 40,25 kgf cm
(20 to 35 lbf ins) when
initial inertia has been overcome. Change the
bearing pre-load shim as necessary to obtain this
requirement. A thicker shim
will reduce pre-load;

a thinner shim will increase pre-load."

However 20-35in/lbs seems like ALOT just to turn the pinion and carrier. I'm no where near that, but it already feels too hard when compared to the other diffs I took out of this truck/axle assemblies.

am I reading that right? Put a tq wrench on the pinion nut and once intial inertia is broken it takes 20-35 in/lbs to keep it rotating?

What determines the amount of force it takes to rotate the pinion/carrier? preload?
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  #25  
Old September 14th, 2012, 09:56 AM
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All done - axle is in and drives fine. Only one little issue maybe someone can sort out.

When coasting, there is a little bit of a hum i hear from the back. It only happens when i'm completely off the throttle. Doesn't matter if its in gear or neutral, and gets louder as speed increases.

It sounds like a fire stations siren off in the distance. (infact at first thats what I thought it was).

Its not that i just can't hear it under throttle, even if i just have the slightly bit of throttle it goes away.

There is no grinding, bindnig, or slop in the drivetrain, it drives perfectly fine. I dont feel any extra resistance when coasting either.



I did notice that there was alsightly more resitance when i tried turning the pinion on the "new" third member than the old one i took out. I assumed the oil seal was just new and not worn in a little bit. I tighten the pinion nut down so the mud guard was just below the surface of the third member, then backed it off a hair. If I had left it tight it was significantly more difficult to turn the pinion.

Should I just drive it awhile and see if it wears in a bit? It looked like I had good, clean engagment of my ring and pinion gears, everything looked to be lined up perfectly.

There are no leaks, after driving i felt the pumpking and third member and it was just barely warmer than the surrounding metal so I dont think there is excess heat being built up.

Could it be comign from either wheel and not the third member even?
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  #26  
Old September 14th, 2012, 11:43 AM
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Adrian to save a 10 page essay on differentials I sent you my number, give me a call later on
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  #27  
Old September 14th, 2012, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
All done - axle is in and drives fine. Only one little issue maybe someone can sort out.

When coasting, there is a little bit of a hum i hear from the back. It only happens when i'm completely off the throttle. Doesn't matter if its in gear or neutral, and gets louder as speed increases.

It sounds like a fire stations siren off in the distance. (infact at first thats what I thought it was).

Its not that i just can't hear it under throttle, even if i just have the slightly bit of throttle it goes away.

There is no grinding, bindnig, or slop in the drivetrain, it drives perfectly fine. I dont feel any extra resistance when coasting either.



I did notice that there was alsightly more resitance when i tried turning the pinion on the "new" third member than the old one i took out. I assumed the oil seal was just new and not worn in a little bit. I tighten the pinion nut down so the mud guard was just below the surface of the third member, then backed it off a hair. If I had left it tight it was significantly more difficult to turn the pinion.

Should I just drive it awhile and see if it wears in a bit? It looked like I had good, clean engagment of my ring and pinion gears, everything looked to be lined up perfectly.

There are no leaks, after driving i felt the pumpking and third member and it was just barely warmer than the surrounding metal so I dont think there is excess heat being built up.

Could it be comign from either wheel and not the third member even?
I just did the same swap on my Rover. The noise you hear is from the pinion bearing (when there is no load on diff). Your pinion bearing might be bad. Did you install the spacer?
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  #28  
Old September 14th, 2012, 09:11 PM
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I out the spacer in but the yoke isn't up against it I don't think. I can tighten the pinion nut more but it will push the oil seal way into the housing. But it would also put the yoke closer too/touching the spacer. I can give that a try. Just gotta take the 4 bolts off the flange, which should only take a few minutes.
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  #29  
Old September 15th, 2012, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
I out the spacer in but the yoke isn't up against it I don't think. I can tighten the pinion nut more but it will push the oil seal way into the housing. But it would also put the yoke closer too/touching the spacer. I can give that a try. Just gotta take the 4 bolts off the flange, which should only take a few minutes.
If you left the spacer out then that's your problem, you need the spacer if you are converting from a 3 flange to a 4 flange.

I have 2 diffs going to the scrap yard, I guess I should remove the flanges and spacers just in case somebody needs them.

Good luck!
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  #30  
Old September 15th, 2012, 07:06 AM
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Damn auto correct. Out=put. The spacer is in there
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  #31  
Old September 15th, 2012, 09:01 AM
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FWIW, my build has my old D1 axle with detroit in it....putting that under the galvy chassis was the easy part. Its the rest of the build thats taking time....
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  #32  
Old September 15th, 2012, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
Damn auto correct. Out=put. The spacer is in there
The I would have to guess nut not torqued properly or bearing/race wear on the pinion. Just my 1/5 cents.
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  #33  
Old September 15th, 2012, 02:26 PM
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Well I popped the driveshaft off and took off the pinion nut. It wasnt very tight. I put it back on with a tq wrench and set it at 120ftlbs. Much much better! I still feel like I can barely hear it, but it may honestly be my tires this time as its significantly less. Thanks all for the help!
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