swapping 1.4 to 1.2 tcase in my 110 - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old September 5th, 2013, 10:07 AM
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If the bolt is to long, you will not move, ever.... as it jambs the intermediate gear.

It is possible the diff lock was engaged with the light off. Your symptoms sound like a locked diff.
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  #22  
Old September 5th, 2013, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
When this occured, my difflock light was not on, and my gear was in 4H. That is why I'm suspecting that if my tcase was in lock, that incorrectly adjusted linkage may not have pulled it all the way out..but that's just a theory. Has anyone experienced the binding symptoms before that can describe them? I haven't since I'm religous about not being locked on pavement.

I have also read that using the incorrect length bolt (as in too long) on the front-bottom of the tcase where it mounts to mainbox can keep the tcase locked. does anyone know the thread size of the tcase mounting bolts? I read the correct length for that particular one needs to be 1.25" long. thinking about hitting home depot and getting the correct bolt, and pulling that one when I get home to rule it in or out. Rather just throw in on one hand, then pull them all to find the short one.
I did this once- only once. Similar symptoms a bang and then all good. I later removed the tcase for other reasons and that bolt wouldn't play nice and when it did come out it was bent.
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  #23  
Old September 5th, 2013, 11:06 AM
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mark kellgren
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ok, I did crank that difflock switch in pretty well. I'm going to loosen it and follow these instructions. makes sense. Thanks so much, and thanks red for helping me rule out the concern about the bolt length.
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  #24  
Old September 5th, 2013, 11:58 AM
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I've never had a locked center diff cause issues like that, it usually causes the tires to chirp lightly when turning.
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  #25  
Old September 6th, 2013, 12:29 PM
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UPDATE: so pulled tunnel cover off at work during lunch, adjusted the difflock switch (thank you for steps),nothing strange observed in the linkages. I was able to drive it home that evening, but still felt some choppy resistance at slow speed, but no major locking up. That was quit nerve wracking. While doing the adjustments and realizing it wasn't linkage or switch, I did some brainstorming on what else could be causing it, and remembered that once before, I had the parking brake shoes catching on the drum causing similar symptoms. It had been a while so hence why I forgot. At home, I drop the rear prop and raise a tire and I can feel the intermitten resistance in the drum even with the adjustment screw backed off quite a bit. I pull the drum off, settle the shoes a bit, and spin the rear flange feeling no resistance-nice and smooth. Put the drum back on, make sure it's square, readjust the adjustment screw and cable, and the drum spins nice and smooth now.

So now I'm starting to like this 1.2. Much quieter in traffic and doing 40-50 down roads, and comfortable in 4th gear. I need to refill the tank and see what's happened with the mpg's.

The X-brake just moved WAY up on my list! So glad I didn't brake stuff.
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  #26  
Old September 6th, 2013, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
So glad I didn't brake stuff.
It's also good that you didn't break stuff!
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  #27  
Old September 16th, 2013, 05:22 PM
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so as an update, after several hours of road time this weekend, I am getting more pleased with the 1.2. On Thursday right before leaving, I retimed my 2.8. I had just received the 9.5mm drill bit that M&D recommended I use, and just like the experience once before when I attempted to time my engine, with the bit properly seated in the IP driveshaft hole, the engine wouldn't start. it would stumble and blow all kinds of white smoke. I won't derail this topic, so long story short, thanks to the tuning an IP thread on this forum, I took a leap of faith and manually adjusted the timing twice until the engine would start and idle properly. The 2.5 hour ride to drill however was horrible. no wind in the sail, struggled to hold 60 mph. Again, 15mpg. Though this 1.2 may have been a bad idea. Fortunately, I had just driven my friends RRC that was just converted to a 300TDI, and ran perfectly with the same RRC 1.2 LT230 I had, and that encouraged me to not lose faith. The next night at a friends house, after researching the very handy symptoms shared on this forum about retarted timing, I concluded that my engine was very retarded. So I did an aggressive advance again, and was able to comfortably do 65mph with a top of 70mph going to the armory from his house. At 70 mph, there was nothing left though. It was clear I needed more advance; I still felt retarded. Today, I did another advance. Before I did that, I used a permanent marker and circled the IP driveplate around on the 3 bolts, so I have a point of reference. I was winging it without the pin and needed a point of reference, and noticed the plate would spring back in the retarded direction everytime I loosened the bolts. Now a did another aggressive advance and took the highway to work. much, much better. 70 was easy and with reserve power, and drivetrain was much quieter at 2200 rpm vs 2800. At this point, I'm definitely keeping the 1.2. I know a retarded timing causes worse mpg, which I'm seeing. Now that the idle is slightly more rough, I feel like I'm as far as I'm comfortable going with timing advance. I'll have to see over the next 2 weeks if mileage improves, now that power is where I want it. If I can't get past the 15mpg though, I will have gained nothing except for a little less road noise, as power and economy would have been where I was with the 1.4.

My assumption is that since the pin method of IP timing was totally out of wack, my IP pulley must have been off a tooth or two when installed by the factory. The timing case hasn't been opened since then. I have a new timing belt and will be hitting the 70k mark this fall, and was planning on doing the belt in the spring, so I'm hoping I'll be able to rectify that. I have the dial gauge now too, but that gauge will not fit easily into the back of the IP without moving AC lines and filter cage, so it's not a simple job to try doing it that way.

What I need is a good TDI mechanic in charlotte to salvage my weekends and getting this thing spot on!
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  #28  
Old September 17th, 2013, 02:44 AM
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If it were me, i'd do the timing belt NOW.

I had a 200Tdi once, and when I changed the belt once, I had the timing waaaay off. the engine ran, and performance didn't seem any/much different, but eventually the crank snapped through the middle... it was putting so much stress on the conrods and crank (where it was firing at the wrong time) so I had to do a full rebuild on it.
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  #29  
Old September 17th, 2013, 02:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
It was clear... I still felt retarded.
Sorry, had to. Too many references calling yourself retarded to let it slide.
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  #30  
Old September 17th, 2013, 07:20 AM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontheway View Post
Sorry, had to. Too many references calling yourself retarded to let it slide.
My writing was deliberate!

------ Follow up post added September 17th, 2013 07:22 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by diesel_jim View Post
If it were me, i'd do the timing belt NOW.

I had a 200Tdi once, and when I changed the belt once, I had the timing waaaay off. the engine ran, and performance didn't seem any/much different, but eventually the crank snapped through the middle... it was putting so much stress on the conrods and crank (where it was firing at the wrong time) so I had to do a full rebuild on it.
Good perspective, thanks. I have a long weekend without the family in early November. I might just do it then, now that you mention it. I just have to get the tools needed to do it. The timing belt is already on hand.

My first time doing the timing belt. Hope I don't F' it up.
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  #31  
Old September 17th, 2013, 08:24 AM
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BTW, I did notice on the last adjustment, after I decided to mark the current timing position with a sharpie, that the pulley was bouncing back a little every time I released the 3 fixing bolts. We are talking about a few millimeters of advance. When I say aggressive, I mean relative to the adjustment before it. Stopping at the first detectable movement on the 22mm IP driveshaft bolt with a socket.
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