SW soundproofing advice - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 21st, 2007, 05:51 AM
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Gary Baxter
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SW soundproofing advice

The carpets were crap in my SW so I ripped them out and have a new set ordered. I got a little carried away and also took out all the interior trim pieces and headliners and gave then a good scrubbing. I planned on soundproofing/insulating the footwells, seat box, doors, and the rear tub area before putting it back together.

My question is: does it make sense to soundproof/insulate the top and sides of the roof or is that just a waste of time & material? Or is that a bad idea for other reasons? My objective is to improve the heat retention in the winter and to get a little better sound out of my speakers.
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  #2  
Old July 21st, 2007, 10:24 AM
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Clark Bowen
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Gary, I used QuietCar, a spray on sound deadener, in my doors and under the bonnet and was pleased. Much easier than mats like DynaMat to install. You spray it on and it can be used in about 4 hours. Cures in seven days. It particularly helped with the sound of the doors - they thunk now - and the stereo - it seems much louder and clearer. Lots cheaper and easier to apply than DynaMat too (I've used DynaMat on a previous D90).
Here is their website: www.quietcoat.com/.
I think it would be well worth your time.

Clark
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  #3  
Old July 21st, 2007, 11:37 AM
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kevin
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If you have bare metal under the headliner then adding sound deadening will make a fair bit of difference. I have no headliner in my truck and after adding sound material it made a big difference in sound and heat. Do the roof.
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  #4  
Old July 22nd, 2007, 07:11 AM
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Thanks guys.
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  #5  
Old July 23rd, 2007, 03:27 PM
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Hey Clark I am really interested in this quiet car stuff. I was going to originlly do the inside of the doors and the floors and fire wall with dynamatt, but think this may be the ticket. any pictures of what you did ?




Jason
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  #6  
Old July 23rd, 2007, 03:34 PM
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mark kellgren
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I'm currently in the process of adding Second Skin firewall, which is a sound deadener and thermal insulator combined. I'm applying it with a paint brush. I have one gallon, and I'm going to do the bulkhead, front floor, seat box, and under bonnet. if i'm pleased with the performance, I'll do the roof as well, and get a second gallon for that and thickening of existing applications. They recommend 2 mm to get effect, 3 for optimal (2 pennies thick).
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  #7  
Old July 23rd, 2007, 05:00 PM
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Clark Bowen
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Jason, If I can figure out how to add pictures I'll send them.

Clark
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  #8  
Old July 24th, 2007, 08:05 PM
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Clark Bowen
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QuietCar coatings

Jason...................

Here is a picture of the underside of the bonnet with the QuietCar coating. It goes on very easy and with very little overspray. It took me about 30 minutes combined to spray 3 coats.

Clark
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  #9  
Old July 24th, 2007, 09:34 PM
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Clark, that looks real nice and clean. did you have to get a special sprayer? and how thick did it go on?

Did it quiet the doors down ? make them close with a nice thunk ?

Also I am having my defender waxaynoled and wonder if I should not do the inside of the doors with quiet car? maybe just do them with dyna mat ? I dont know how the 2 would react to each other.

Im torn on what to do. I want rust protection and quieter ride.


Jason
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  #10  
Old July 24th, 2007, 09:50 PM
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Clark Bowen
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Yes, I did buy the sprayer they offer and I'm glad I did. Much easier than a brush. I haven't gotten around to doing the doors yet, but given how solid the bonnet now feels it should produce a satisfying thunk in the doors.
Iwent light on the first coat and heavy on the next two but it never ran.

Clark
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  #11  
Old July 25th, 2007, 11:43 AM
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George Kase
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Clark...is it noticiblely quieter?
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  #12  
Old July 25th, 2007, 01:07 PM
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mark kellgren
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On this topic, as I am getting ready to brush my sound deadener on, what is the experienced opinions on where to start first, in decending order of effect (ie. bulkhead, then floor pan, then seatbox, etc.)

I currently have a gallon, and may need another, but want to start with the most impactful areas in deadening sound (and I'm having to do it piecemeal since I have a toddler and infant, so my projects tend to constrained to 1 hour or less in duration).
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  #13  
Old July 25th, 2007, 04:23 PM
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I'm surprised that no-one has chimed in to discourage us from soundproofing the bonnet. I'm not an engineer but I would suspect that the soundproofing would have to have some heat reflecting properties to be effective. Couldn't that contribute to overheating of the engine?
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  #14  
Old July 25th, 2007, 04:33 PM
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mark kellgren
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not with a diesel, and certainly not with my uber-radiated engine. and the material I am using doesn't reflect heat, it absorbes it without transmitting it. it is ceramic based. it was designed for thermal insulation AND sound absorbtion.
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  #15  
Old July 25th, 2007, 05:00 PM
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Thanks; I'll check out the Second Skin.
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  #16  
Old July 26th, 2007, 08:29 AM
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Clark Bowen
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George.............

The QuietCar didn't make as much difference in quieting as I had hoped for. The thick rubber firewall pads/mats from RN made the biggest differences. I think that so much engine noise is transmitted out through the fender wells and underneath the motor that a sound absorbing material might have a bigger impact. QuietCar seems to work best as a deadener like DynaMat to reduce transmission of sound. Still glad I installed the Quietcar under the bonnet, however.

Clark
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  #17  
Old July 26th, 2007, 08:43 AM
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George Kase
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Mark,
did you put your second skin on? did it help?
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  #18  
Old July 26th, 2007, 09:15 AM
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not yet. will report when complete.
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