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  #1  
Old April 8th, 2015, 09:20 AM
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Suspension upgrade, no lift

I want to upgrade my stock shocks & springs but am not interested in a lift. Any advice on the best route/brand? Apologies if there are dedicated threads on this already, I couldnt find them - appreciate if anyone else can.
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  #2  
Old April 8th, 2015, 09:22 AM
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what kind of driving are you planning on doing?
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Old April 8th, 2015, 09:26 AM
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Good question... mostly road. Think "improved" stock
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  #4  
Old April 8th, 2015, 09:30 AM
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You'll get a lot of opinions on this one. For a smooth ride, I went with OEM springs, Bilstein shocks, and medium (orange) firm bushings. You can even go with blue for an even softer ride, but don't skimp on the bushings.

You'll also need to get two retainer rings for the front only (rear does not have them). They'll inevitably disintegrate when you take down your front end springs and shocks (unless you just did them recently).
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Old April 8th, 2015, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rankar View Post
You can even go with blue for an even softer ride, but don't skimp on the bushings.
Even new stock, genuine rubber bushings would probably provide a noticeable improvement over 20 year old originals, along with new shocks and springs of course.

I think rovers north has a kit with the latest version of the stock shocks. They are pretty spendy at about $500 for the 4, but I'd be tempted to get them for a stock vehicle. Of course I'd probably end up going with OME stock length instead, because they can be cheaper and have a good reputation.
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  #6  
Old April 8th, 2015, 09:43 AM
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  #7  
Old April 8th, 2015, 09:52 AM
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I ran bilsteins on the 90 for a while before I changed out the springs. I was very pleased with them. Anything was an improvement over the worn out shocks i had on there.
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  #8  
Old April 8th, 2015, 09:54 AM
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Thanks all
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  #9  
Old April 8th, 2015, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toona View Post
I want to upgrade my stock shocks & springs but am not interested in a lift. Any advice on the best route/brand? Apologies if there are dedicated threads on this already, I couldnt find them - appreciate if anyone else can.
This is a vague posting. Why do you want to "upgrade springs"? What is your suspension doing or not doing that you wish to change.

Everyone is drawn to the words "heavy duty" like bees to pollen but in the spring world "heavy duty" means designed to carry a greater load.

Springs that are too "heavy duty" for a vehicle's weight don't articulate well and will give more of a buck board like ride, ratting your truck to death on washboard roads.

Springs that are not up to your vehicle's loaded off road weight will sag, have excessive side sway and may break under the vehicle weight off road.

What you want are springs that are matched to your vehicle weight and shocks that are matched to the springs. Your ideal solution is to go to a public scale and weigh the vehicle loaded for off road. You want total weight, front axle weight and rear axle weight. Then try to find manufacturer's spring specs to see which ones come closest to matching your weights. Sometimes the fronts & rears should be different spec springs because of your weight distribution. You may have to write or call the spring manufacturer, tell them what you have, your weights and ask which of their products will work best for your individual vehicle.

Always go with the spring manufacturer's recommendation for which shocks to use for your springs. The shock is there to dampen spring bounce and needs to have different levels of resistance for different spring rates. The shock manufacturer might know which is the best match as well. The retailer may or may not have a clue.

Here's a strong suggestion: Go through your suspension bushings first renewing any that show the slightest wear. Your suspension will never work right if it has bad bushings. The difference in handling between a vehicle with bad bushings and one with good bushings is like day and night.

If your issue is side lean on pavement curves, consider anti sway bars if your bushings are in very good condition. You can even get anti sway bars with a quick release for off pavement use.

Always match springs to vehicle weight and always check bushings first.
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  #10  
Old April 8th, 2015, 10:43 AM
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Not knowing what you mean by upgrade, but given your road bias, fresh stock springs, add bilsteins and replace the bushings.
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  #11  
Old April 8th, 2015, 11:52 AM
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As Terriann says, you need to be a lot more clear on how you want it to improve.
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  #12  
Old April 8th, 2015, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Isolators will help with vibrations.






-Jeff
Sorry to thread jack here, but I'm also swapping out for all new suspension and bushings with no lift on my 110. I decided to go with the Land Rover Progressive rears since I will be removing my boge unit and everything else will be stock and Genuine/OEM

The big question for me now is should I invest in these Isolators, do they make a real difference to sound and ride quality?
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  #13  
Old April 8th, 2015, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
Sorry to thread jack here, but I'm also swapping out for all new suspension and bushings with no lift on my 110. I decided to go with the Land Rover Progressive rears since I will be removing my boge unit and everything else will be stock and Genuine/OEM

The big question for me now is should I invest in these Isolators, do they make a real difference to sound and ride quality?
Sound, yes. Ride Quality...not so much.
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  #14  
Old April 8th, 2015, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ezzzzzzz View Post
Sound, yes. Ride Quality...not so much.

Are most people running them just top side or top and bottom?

Anyone have a part number for the 110 rear isolators? I'm just seeing the 90 ones.
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  #15  
Old April 8th, 2015, 12:45 PM
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I've not noticed any difference with them in. I don't think they make them for 110 rears. They were intended for Discoverys.
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Old April 8th, 2015, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
I've not noticed any difference with them in. I don't think they make them for 110 rears. They were intended for Discoverys.

In case anyone else is looking I did just dig them up. They are actually tube isolators a bit different and probably less effective than the fronts. I'm going to give them a whirl.

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  #17  
Old April 8th, 2015, 01:04 PM
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They also break down over time......
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #18  
Old April 9th, 2015, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
They also break down over time......
Show me a single thing that does not break down over time and I'll just tell you that you have not observed it long enough.

I think the phrase that you are meaning is something like:
"They have a severely limited service life." or "Darn it I these things should have lasted longer"

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Like the fabled person fated to continually push a boulder up a hill we all fated to spend our lives trying to bring order to a world that rushes towards randomness only to be overtaken in the end and fade to randomness.
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  #19  
Old April 9th, 2015, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilboro View Post
Are most people running them just top side or top and bottom?

Anyone have a part number for the 110 rear isolators? I'm just seeing the 90 ones.
I run them top and bottom in my Range Rover Classic...I even hang one from the rear view mirror when Briggs is in town.

It's so quiet and smooth in my truck I can hear myself think!


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  #20  
Old April 9th, 2015, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toona View Post
I want to upgrade my stock shocks & springs but am not interested in a lift. Any advice on the best route/brand? Apologies if there are dedicated threads on this already, I couldnt find them - appreciate if anyone else can.
For a nice upgrade you could go with a genuine progressive spring all around.

Front you could go with NRC8044/NRC8045 - 155/215 progressive

Rear you could go with NRC9462/NRC9463 - 210/240 progressive
or NRC8044/NRC8045 - 155/215 progressive

These shouldn't give you a lift at all and will take up the smaller road bumps better than stock. Those isolators can help vibrations but will add 1/2 lift.
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