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  #21  
Old August 15th, 2007, 11:06 AM
punter
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Scott
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I just got with the folks at Draken Off Road. You're right, it's nice stuff ...and those folks are very cool as well.

Just an FYI:
The price list is available on their site... it's just a little difficult to find. I came across it by chance. If you follow the link on their home page for "list of authorized dealers", there is a hotlink at the bottom of the page for it... "View USD retail pricelist"

Here's the link:
http://www.drakenoffroad.com/Retail%20USA%202007.pdf

Now, I just need to decide where to draw the line. It's easy to get caught up on all this ...start off thinking mild suspension upgrade, next thing you know you're taking out another mortgage on your house.
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  #22  
Old August 15th, 2007, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landrovered
but how do you loose upward travel if the shock is not topping out?
If you drop the shock mounts, you have to lower the bump stops. Now you have effectively stopped the tire 2in shorter than 33's need to be stopped. Yes you "should" get two more in. of downtravel. But if you are buying new shocks, then buying lower mounts, why not do it the best you can for the same $$?

If someone came to me and asked for the absolute cheapest way to get 2in of suspension lift regardless of performance, I would tell him to space the springs 2in, and drop the shock mounts 2in. But when your already considering spending the money, do it the best way. Get a shock in there with 14in of travel so you can actually use the rear cones if you want them (whether or not those are any good is onther thing).

But whatever. Seriously, you can do what you want to your own truck.

Cheers,

Buck
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  #23  
Old August 16th, 2007, 09:03 AM
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landrovered
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S. Smith
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Buck,

What shocks are you running?

Thanks,

Scott
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  #24  
Old August 16th, 2007, 11:55 AM
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Scott, consider the RYM 2" springs.. I have the 3"ers on mine and love them. I use my truck the same way as you explained exept mine is a 90... It rides great on the road. Rym can also do radius arms and rear links as well.. THink package deal.. let me know if you need more info.
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  #25  
Old August 16th, 2007, 01:36 PM
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landrovered
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S. Smith
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Not to hijack Punter's thread but...

I have OME shocks and springs on my 110 for a 2" lift. It is good to go.

My RRC has a 4" lift with OME +2 springs and 2" spacers and bilsteins since it was a EAS vehcile that I converted. I have caster corrected radius bushings on it and they work well. I am interested for my Rangie since it is my trail truck. I would like to put some longer travel shocks on it since it is limited by the stock shock length. It articulates pretty well as it is but could easily do a lot better.

I have considered Rancho 9000s at +4 but don't know if they have ones that will fit the 93 EAS set up. I saw Rovertyme has an adapter that will allow you to flip your shocks upside down, if I put these on the top side only then I could probably find a long travel shock that would work since the factory upper mounts would not be proprietary any more. I could use any shock with a normal mounting arrangement right side up.

I have 265/75/16s on the rangie and they fit perfectly. I had 285/75/16s but they rubbed and I do not want to cut any sheet metal, besides the 285s would have meant dropping to lower geared diffs and that is too expensive since my axles are 24 spline already and the gearing on the 265s is fine.

I was considering a Detroit/Truetrac set up but I am going to wait and do ARBs front and rear when the budget is better. I am installing an LT230 this weekend since my Borg Warner has finally given up the ghost.
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  #26  
Old August 16th, 2007, 03:39 PM
punter
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Scott
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I was just shopping around on the net, to see what some of my options are and I came across a pretty good deal on an OME LTR set up (shocks, springs, castor correction bushings, and steering dampener). I was thinking about pairing that with a Polybush kit and some extended brake lines, then seeing how it goes from there. I haven't placed any orders, though, so I'm still open to suggestions.

TDI Guy, you mentioned RYM Springs? ...I assume you are referring to Rovertym? I checked out their packages too... nice, but I think I'm sold on the whole OME philosiphy (for lack of a better way of putting it). Seems to make sense... either that or it's brilliant marketing.

In any case, assuming I go with the OME Package, I've got a couple questions...
1.) It comes with Castor Correction Bushings, so I shouldn't need cranked radius arms. Land Rovered, you said you've got them on one of your rigs... happy with the results? or do you feel that the Castor Corrected Radius Arms would provide better results?
2.) Am I going to need to raise the shock mounts for these particular shocks?
3.) Anything else you think I should be looking at adding into the package?

Thanks,
Scott
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  #27  
Old August 16th, 2007, 03:45 PM
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landrovered
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As for the caster corrected bushings, they work great on my RRC with a 4" lift. It wasn't that bad beofre but now the steering wheel recenters after a turn. Also the pinion angle is back where it should be. IMHO with a 2" lift I would feel quite confident that bushings will be all you need.
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  #28  
Old August 16th, 2007, 06:22 PM
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Makes me wander big time ...

Buck,

I like your take on suspension, I would definatly like to know what you would do to take a 110 up 2" and get the best bang for you buck.

I too will be doing the suspension set-up in about 3 weeks and getting ready to order the whole chibang and would really like to do it once.

70-30 on and off road.

Thanks for sharing.

Pat
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  #29  
Old August 18th, 2007, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landrovered
Buck,

What shocks are you running?

Thanks,

Scott
My truck is so far gone that it almost has no relevence to a rover suspension anymore. But, I have 16in SAW Airshocks in the back and 14in FOX coilovers up front angled for 16in travel.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Retrofit
Buck,

I like your take on suspension, I would definatly like to know what you would do to take a 110 up 2" and get the best bang for you buck.

I too will be doing the suspension set-up in about 3 weeks and getting ready to order the whole chibang and would really like to do it once.

70-30 on and off road.

Thanks for sharing.

Pat
I would do one of two things. I would search for TDIGUY's build and look at what he did. Just copy that but with 2in springs and no 3Link (you don't need it). Or, I would call Kieth at Rovertracks and see what he can do for you on a package deal. You basically only need new springs, radius arms, longer shock mounts, and shocks to have a pretty good cheap setup.

Good luck, Buck.

edit: Oh, and retain the springs, don't use cones.
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  #30  
Old August 18th, 2007, 11:51 PM
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Michael Slade
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
edit: Oh, and retain the springs, don't use cones.
+eleventy-billion
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  #31  
Old August 20th, 2007, 12:01 AM
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Thanks Buck !

Now just to make sure I get this right, if I put +2"coils, and leave the shock mounts where they are I should get 1"more travel each way, by that +2" shocks. Now if I move them up 2"I would get 2" more travel each way using +4" shocks.

I can easily see that in the rear but can you do that up front ? Cause the shock towers would go through the wheel well would it ?

By the way what is the standard length of the shocks front and back for a 110 ?

Getting closer and closer to exactly where I want the rig to be ...

Thanks all
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  #32  
Old August 20th, 2007, 09:06 AM
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In the rear You can go with a Rockware setup for shocks... THey make a really nice simple shock mount... It would accept a 14" travel shock max.. YOu prob would be fine with a 12'er of you are retaining the springs but the 14's would not hurt.. I have 14's in the rear of my series coil truck and that only has a 1" lift. IT will droop like a mother..

Up front, I think ROvertracks is making a new front shock setup. Get a hold of Keith and he can fill you in on what shock would work well with a 2" lift...
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  #33  
Old August 20th, 2007, 09:55 AM
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Scott T
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landrovered
As for the caster corrected bushings, they work great on my RRC with a 4" lift. It wasn't that bad beofre but now the steering wheel recenters after a turn. Also the pinion angle is back where it should be. IMHO with a 2" lift I would feel quite confident that bushings will be all you need.
Just keep in mind that using the castor correcting bushings ends up limiting cross axle articulation, since they remove so much rubber from the bushing area to allow room for the aluminum castor correcting piece, that the bushings will bind that much quicker when you cross up the axle..
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  #34  
Old August 20th, 2007, 12:43 PM
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landrovered
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S. Smith
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Thanks for the comment, so far I have not had an issue with binding. In my mind, any bind that would occur at would be at the chassis end and would cause more limit to articulation than the bushings on the axle end of the radius arm.

The money I saved on not buying new front radius arms will go a long way towards lockers which I think will give me the most bang for the buck. Then I will come back and perfect the articulation.

Follow-up Post:

Postscript to previous post:

Addressing the chassis end of the radius arm is why I put OEM rubber bushings on the radius arms instead of poly or some harder material.
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