Super basic questions about my LT95 transmission - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 28th, 2015, 11:24 AM
adamclyde
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Adam
'83 110 V8
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Super basic questions about my LT95 transmission

Just got a LHD 1983 110 with a 3.5 V8. It's got a manual 4-speed LT95 transmission, with overdrive. Super stoked.

Now for some really basic questions:

Question 1: Manual seems to say that both the engine AND the transmission should be getting 10W40 oil / 15W50 (depending on brand). I've read elsewhere the LT95 should be getting 20W50. What's the best bet for ensuring some longevity in my transmission (which seems to be in good shape, thankfully)?

Question 2: Overdrive. I confess at not having any experience with a manual overdrive. (Do I have a Fairey Overdrive, which I've read about here?) At any rate, I'm assuming hypoid 90?

Question 3: Finally, at the risk of revealing my truly naive status here... how on earth do I engage the diff lock? The transfer gear is at the very bottom of the console and the overdrive is next to the main transmission stick. Where and how do I engage the diff?
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  #2  
Old December 28th, 2015, 11:32 AM
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William Skidmore
SIII 109 SW
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What manual are you refering to? Where did you read "elsewhere"? Pictures of the overdrive?
I know on series trucks and nas 90's there labels that showed you how to and when to shift, usually on the bulkhead for series and dash on the nas 90's.
Again what manual do you have cause it should have something in there about how to use the different shifters.
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  #3  
Old December 28th, 2015, 12:29 PM
adamclyde
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
What manual are you refering to?
I should have been more clear. The manual is from Land Rover web. Land Rover Defender Manuals and Parts Catalogue | Landroverweb.com

I'll add some pictures when I get home in an hour... Finding it hard to do from my phone.
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  #4  
Old December 28th, 2015, 02:02 PM
adamclyde
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'83 110 V8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbornrover View Post
Pictures of the overdrive?
OK, hoping this works - here's a picture of the interior - with the transmission shift, overdrive, transfer shift, and an unknown-to-me strange knob next to the transfer shift.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Be very careful with the overdrive. It's built like a Swiss watch, but it should be built like a meat grinder. The LT95 OD is somewhat rare and parts are NLA. They are known to leak and there isn't much capacity, so check it often (at least weekly)
Thanks, Jeff. Noted! assuming hypoid 90?
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  #5  
Old December 28th, 2015, 03:32 PM
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Dan Pollock
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The diff lock is that unknown knob right between the e-brake and the Hi-Lo. You just pull it straight out. There won't be any resistance or "click" when it's engaged. You'll only know from the light on the dash (if the light is working!)

------ Follow up post added December 28th, 2015 03:33 PM ------

also, super jealous of the overdrive. I've got the LT95 without it and driving I-95 isn't super fun.
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Old December 28th, 2015, 08:50 PM
adamclyde
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPdotCOM View Post
The diff lock is that unknown knob right between the e-brake and the Hi-Lo. You just pull it straight out. There won't be any resistance or "click" when it's engaged. You'll only know from the light on the dash (if the light is working!)

------ Follow up post added December 28th, 2015 03:33 PM ------

also, super jealous of the overdrive. I've got the LT95 without it and driving I-95 isn't super fun.
Thanks! I thought that unknown knob may have been the diff lock. It seems to be completely immovable. Any chance you know how to free it up? I've tried it in neutral, in first, in reverse, etc. Clutch in/clutch out. Doesn't budge. Is it busted, or am I doing something wrong?

BTW, I'm very familiar with I-95 after a decade of East Coast living! It's a beautiful part of the country, despite the weather.
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  #7  
Old December 28th, 2015, 08:56 PM
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Dan Pollock
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It should move extremely easily. Like, mine is so light that the first time I moved it I thought "that can't possibly have actually done anything," but for the notification light. I've only tried it with the truck on and in neutral.
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  #8  
Old December 28th, 2015, 09:00 PM
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Charles Galpin
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That unknown knob should be the diff lock - vacuum engaged. To verify, pull the access panel in the center and you should see a hose(s) going from that knob to the transfer case and the engine or brake booster (vacuum source).
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Old December 29th, 2015, 02:43 AM
adamclyde
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Diff Lock Stuck?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
That unknown knob should be the diff lock - vacuum engaged. To verify, pull the access panel in the center and you should see a hose(s) going from that knob to the transfer case and the engine or brake booster (vacuum source).
Thanks Charles. I pulled the access panel and took these photos. Like you said, it looks like a hose attached. I can't seem to get any movement at all in the diff lock. Could it be somehow rusted or corroded? Tomorrow I'll see if some wd40 around the knob shaft and the casing can get some movement. I saw this thread from a few years ago and am wondering if someone intentionally glued it to disable it.

thoughts?

Side note... I've got a lot of crud to clean off...
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  #10  
Old December 30th, 2015, 09:29 PM
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Charles Galpin
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It would be worth a try to soak it in wd40 since a replacement is so expensive. Pull out to engage.
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  #11  
Old December 31st, 2015, 09:57 AM
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The valve is very simple. The big black plug is simply attached to a rectangular rubber block that slides back and forth inside the rectangular housing. The block has gaps in it that connect the vacuum from the carb to one hose or the other. There is not much inside the valve to bind things up other than standard Rover dirt.

I would spray lots of cleaner (like brake clean) all around the valve. WD-40 could work as well.

If you want to test your diff lock mechanism - you can simply disconnect the hoses from the valve and hold them together with the engine running and vacuum present. Or you could apply vacuum from a big syringe (or similar). It does not take much. You could use your mouth - but that's icky.
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  #12  
Old December 31st, 2015, 10:19 AM
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John B.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
...since a replacement is so expensive. Pull out to engage.
I'm sure it is fixable, but manual air/vacuum switch valves are cheap and common, if original is not important.
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