Sudden decrease / loss of power, bucking, stalling, etc - Page 4 - Defender Source
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  #61  
Old February 13th, 2013, 10:49 AM
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Bill Adams
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Quote:
buy the ignition amp relocation kit from AB...which I plan on doing anyway at some point in the future, just didn't have time now before the trip this weekend.
I wouldn't bother with that. Better to wire up for the GM ignition module that you can buy by the dozens at Napa, Pep Boys, etc...
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  #62  
Old February 13th, 2013, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
I wouldn't bother with that. Better to wire up for the GM ignition module that you can buy by the dozens at Napa, Pep Boys, etc...
Wouldn't you still need some sort of "relocation" portion of the kit? It's a pain in the arse pulling the dizzy to replace the damn thing. Or are you saying just jerry-rig up some sort of harness?
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  #63  
Old February 13th, 2013, 11:06 AM
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Yup. You would need a twisted pair harness coming from the diz pins going to the spade connections on the GM module, then spade connectors (both ends) for the POS and NEG wires that go to the coil. That's about it. Oh yeah and a mounting thingamajig to ground it.
Rover wire colors slightly different
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  #64  
Old February 13th, 2013, 11:07 AM
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Oh, and FYI there is an open "IOU" (and thanks) to Galpin for one said Ignition Module! And to Huff for assisting with removal and setting the timing.
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  #65  
Old February 13th, 2013, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post

Actually what would really be good to know is why this 90 is driving me insane.
It's female and that time of the month?
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  #66  
Old February 17th, 2013, 12:19 PM
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Mat Morgan
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With new cap and rotor, don't forget to adjust the air gap.
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  #67  
Old April 8th, 2013, 03:50 PM
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I hate to chime in on something that may have already been put to rest, but my truck is doing something similar. I am thinking about replacing the coil pack and ignition module this week prior to leaving on a road trip Saturday. Will I need to adjust my timing when doing this or is this a plug and play kindof thing?
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  #68  
Old April 8th, 2013, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RickM View Post
I hate to chime in on something that may have already been put to rest, but my truck is doing something similar. I am thinking about replacing the coil pack and ignition module this week prior to leaving on a road trip Saturday. Will I need to adjust my timing when doing this or is this a plug and play kindof thing?
Mine was the ignition module. I replaced with a good/used module because that's what I had on hand, and I needed it fixed ASAP. I've since procured the ignition module relocation kit, and plan to install that to make it easier to access later in case I need to swap it again (really, just in case it's the voltage regulator on my alternator that's shorting out the ignition module...in which case would be nice to plug and play going forward).

But yes, you'll need to pull the distributor. IF you're careful and mark the distributor, cap, rotor with a grease pencil (and mark on the block the orientation as well) I think you should be able to pull it and put it back together without changing the timing.

However, we did mine at Jeff Huff's and he had a timing light (and knew what he was doing) so we re-set my timing. But after going through the process I realized if you were careful you may not need to do the timing.

Good luck - my problem drove me crazy, but since the fix in the 3-weeks following I drive to WV, then to PA, then to NY, then to VT, and back to VA...with no issues. Something like 3000 miles in 2 months I've done....safe to say it cured the problem.
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  #69  
Old April 8th, 2013, 10:56 PM
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Ok. So what I am thinking I am hearing is that the ignition module is burried beneath the dizzy. TI really don't know where it is. Anyway, so to get to it you have to pull the dizzy which sounds like the reason for the relocation kit. Hmmm. My problem is starting to sound not nearly as bad as yours. May just give the coil pack a start first.
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  #70  
Old April 9th, 2013, 12:04 PM
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I am starting to like what I am seeing here. So if I go with the GM HEI setup, I am thinking I might be able to abandon the old module. Leave it where it is, and put the new module in where it is reachable without having to pull the dist and retime. Is that correct?

Alright. Minor wrench/possible help. I just went and pull the hood of my truck to look at the Coil and leads. As I was doing so I noticed that my ignition module might actually have been located right next to my coil pack up along the front DS of the truck. That said I think it is also a 3 pin. I think it is $40 to address this coil pack. I am probably going to pull them both and see what happens.
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  #71  
Old April 11th, 2013, 02:36 PM
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I just ordered and am picking up a coil pack and module here in about 30 minutes. Mine has the relocation kit on it, and I am planning expecting that I can simply do a plug and play here at the office when I get it back with me. Sure hope I am not wrong, and this thing starts right back up!! I have a soccer game to coach in 3 hours!

RickM
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  #72  
Old April 11th, 2013, 03:30 PM
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Not exactly. You have to remove the old module first so the job is as bad as just replacing the module the first time. Only after that does it get easier.
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  #73  
Old April 11th, 2013, 03:33 PM
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Not exactly. You have to remove the old module first so the job is as bad as just replacing the module the first time. Only after that does it get easier.
Charles, I think Rick said he already has the relocation kit...so actually he should be able to plug-and-play, correct?

Speaking of which, I picked up a relo kit to put in mine as well...so will get to do the job all over again!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RickM View Post
I just ordered and am picking up a coil pack and module here in about 30 minutes. Mine has the relocation kit on it, and I am planning expecting that I can simply do a plug and play here at the office when I get it back with me. Sure hope I am not wrong, and this thing starts right back up!! I have a soccer game to coach in 3 hours!

RickM
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  #74  
Old April 11th, 2013, 03:34 PM
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Yes you are right - I completely misread that. Rick you should be good to go!
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  #75  
Old April 11th, 2013, 10:41 PM
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Got it done. It was plug and play, and believe it or not, it actually runs!
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  #76  
Old September 18th, 2014, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Tank has been full to half full during this.

I'll replace the filter in the morning with one from Napa (they said they stock one for a 90, but we'll see what it looks like when I get there).

Vehicle will - at times - run for an hour or more with no issues at all. I was wondering myself if a fuel pump on its way out would exhibit symptoms like this. Bill Larson said his did...which leads me to believe it could be the culprit.

But I'll check the other items - ignition module, vacuum leak, etc.

Alt is relatively new and has not been exhibiting any behaviors I'd link to it being bad.
What ultimately fixed the issue? I am experiencing the exact same issue in my 1994 NAS Def 90 V8.
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