Substitution parts: oil filters - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 2nd, 2007, 09:52 AM
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Loic Fabro
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Substitution parts: oil filters

Hi,
I went to the local parts store yesterday to buy a new oil filter. I'll use that opportunity to update the substitution parts list (http://www.defendersource.com/tech/part_sub.html).

Here what seems to be compatible with the 3.9L V8 engine on the Defender (I think same applies to the 1997, but I don't know for sure):
- Fram HP16
- Fram Tough Guard TG16

Slightly longer than stock (longer is better AFAIK for oil filters and they clear the steering rods):
- Fram HP45
- Pro Tec 104

Can someone confirm that they are not other references that would work better? (I left out the K&N, Mobil and someotherbrand filters because I did not write them down)

Thanks,
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  #2  
Old July 2nd, 2007, 11:40 AM
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PH8A fram (99% sure that is the number, but I don't use fram so I cannot be 100% sure) and equivilents. I used the ford motorcraft part when rover ran out of filters.
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Old July 2nd, 2007, 05:05 PM
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NAPA GOld 1068 or 1452
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  #4  
Old January 23rd, 2008, 07:43 PM
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the 1452 doesnt have the checkvalve. So 1068
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Old January 23rd, 2008, 11:36 PM
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Avoid the Tough-Guard TG series Fram filters like the plague, this is from personal experience.

Tried one once, and after I did that oil change I immediately had a significant drop in oil pressure at the gauge. Didn't realize what it was at first causing it, but I knew it started when I did the oil change. Same oil at the same viscosity that I had been using in the past, so it had to be the filter. Got a new one of a different type (HP16), and problem went away. This makes me wonder how much the oil pressure you get comes from the filter, and how much from the engine, but that's a different story.

I cut the failed filter apart to see what might have caused it, and found it to be the overpressure valve that the TG16 filter has. Supposed to maintain flow if the filter gets clogged, It's a spring loaded poppet valve at the bottom end, but it just sits against the frame of the pleated filter element. No kind of retention or sealing around it at all, just one piece of poorly stamped sheet metal sitting there. One small flex, and you lose the seal and the oil just goes around the actual filter material. crap crap crap design.

The HP16 is ok though, doesn't have that abomination in it, but still does have the checkvalve.
The checkvalves are easy to spot actually once you know what to look for. Look into the outer ring of holes in the filter. If you can see down into the filter and see the pleating of the element there is no checkvalve. If the holes are covered by rubber, it's there.

Oh, and the end nubbin on the K&N that claims you can use a wrench on it for changes? It sucks, you still need an oil filter wrench a good amount of the time.

-Hans
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Old January 24th, 2008, 12:11 PM
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John Crouse
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Oil Filter

I have also used the NAPA Gold 1068 and was pretty happy with it.
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  #7  
Old January 25th, 2008, 10:12 AM
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I've found Wix to be the cheapest consistent quality filter.
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showp...07&postcount=1

I'm pretty sure these also fit the 300Tdi.
I don't think the Wix 51773 will fit the V-8 Defender because of the steering damper, but haven't personally tried it on mine. Won't know about the 300Tdi until later this year.
I ran them for a while on my Discovery until I relocated the damper.
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