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  #21  
Old July 6th, 2015, 03:54 PM
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John B.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewie212 View Post
Pretty sure the power wire to the cool should be brown. Trace that wire back and see what's up with it.
No, white is the correct color. Brown is the color for constant 12 V.
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  #22  
Old July 6th, 2015, 03:58 PM
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Kevin Keith
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RRC's, at least up to '91, is solid white to positive coil... which makes me think his harness is '92-95 since it's white w black rings.

I can't read a schematic too well but I can poke around my engine & provide any pics you may need to aid in the correct hook up.
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  #23  
Old July 6th, 2015, 03:59 PM
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You have 4 wires going to the coil. 2 to positive and 2 to negative. What are each of the wires connected to?

there should be the correct switch power that stays on (white) to the positive. White/black should go from the negative to the distributor ignition module. Another white/black should go through a resistor to the EFI ECU. Beyond that, you might have a tach signal, which would be the negative as well.
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  #24  
Old July 6th, 2015, 04:13 PM
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Kevin Keith
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I think your wires are mixed up on the coil. Your white w/ black rings should be negative.... if that's the one that runs to the ECU. Other neg to the distributor amp. One positive to distributor amp and the other to switch power.

That's how mine is wired except my neg to ECU is a white with black line not rings.
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  #25  
Old July 6th, 2015, 04:35 PM
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Mike
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Try this one PP64 http://www.conehead.org/Projects/Lan...i/EFi-2.15.pdf
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  #26  
Old July 6th, 2015, 04:50 PM
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Bill Adams
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Ya the harness is actually a pretty nice one along with a known good ECU. Diz is timed properly (I did it myself) and the coil is connected the right way.
The issue is that the harness has a lot of unused wires. He is not sure what goes where and frankly I don't either without the proper literature at hand. I propose that we just simplify with a Megasquirt in fuel-only mode so he can start driving it. I have everything needed to get him on the road, just don't have two minutes back to back that I can get over to his place.
I will try to assemble an emergency start-up kit that will give him a running engine. In the meantime he can work on the gazillion other things he needs to do on that mule.
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  #27  
Old July 6th, 2015, 04:53 PM
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Truck is 100% ready to roll, minus this wiring issue.....
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  #28  
Old July 6th, 2015, 05:40 PM
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Charles Galpin
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I thought you were further along than this. I could try come over one day after work and give you a hand, although I'm not sure I'm going to be that much help.

So did you keep all the existing wiring you had with the 2.8, or remove it and use everything from the RRC harness?

Does anyone know what the minimum wiring the ECU needs to be happy and function?

Have you hooked up a rover gauge to see what if anything the ECU thinks about it's current state?

Bill, so the peanut gallery can play along, what year is this harness/motor from?
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  #29  
Old July 6th, 2015, 07:17 PM
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Harness is from a 1993 LWB 4.2. It has a number of plugs. I can't recall what plugs in to what, so I can hop over to Rob's shop and get some pics of what goes where since there happens to be another 1993 LWB in the process of being taken apart ( sniff )
I think the major issues are where does the power come from/go to and which plug does what.
The Rave manual covers the 1995 models but nothing on line for the 1993-4. So i'm digging thru both my old manuals and online sources.
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  #30  
Old July 6th, 2015, 07:26 PM
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For some reason I recall the power wire to the coil running through the charge light.

However, if it does not run with power directly to the coil, you have other issues.
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  #31  
Old July 6th, 2015, 08:55 PM
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1993 RRC Electrical Troubleshooting Manual
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 93 Range Rover Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf (1.18 MB, 17 views)
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  #32  
Old July 7th, 2015, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
... the coil is connected the right way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 85Red110 View Post
The ignition coil is not getting power. That white wire with black rings has no current.
From your pictures I still think you have two wires reversed on the coil. If the white with black rings goes into the harness with the MAF wiring then it's heading to the ECU & should be on the coil's neg side. Also pull the lower white wire you have the neg side & test it for power with the key on.
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  #33  
Old July 7th, 2015, 10:00 AM
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The white wire on the neg terminal is a ground wire. I had to use whatever wires I could find for this frankenstein trainwreck of an engine swap. I ran out of money a long time ago, and am scavenging for whatever scrap I can find....
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  #34  
Old July 7th, 2015, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85Red110 View Post
The white wire on the neg terminal is a ground wire. I had to use whatever wires I could find for this frankenstein trainwreck of an engine swap. I ran out of money a long time ago, and am scavenging for whatever scrap I can find....
Just a straight up ground... that wire should run to the ECU.
The white black should be your switch power... where does it run to?


If you want to simplify it with a 3.5 harness, I can pull one for you. I think I harvested two relay bases that could be rebuilt but may not be needed in your case. I think one was A/C.
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  #35  
Old July 7th, 2015, 10:09 AM
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The negative should not go to ground. One wire to the ignition module and another to the ECU via a resistor. If you ground the coil, how would the ignition module fire?
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  #36  
Old July 7th, 2015, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin88RRC View Post
Just a straight up ground... that wire should run to the ECU.
The white black should be your switch power... where does it run to?
Not sure where on the harness you mean that ground wire should go. On that note, not sure where the harness grounds either....

The white/black comes from the harness (MAF sensor branch of the loom), and has no power.

------ Follow up post added July 7th, 2015 10:11 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The negative should not go to ground. One wire to the ignition module and another to the ECU via a resistor. If you ground the coil, how would the ignition module fire?

Assuming I know what Im doing would be a mistake
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  #37  
Old July 7th, 2015, 10:15 AM
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Kevin Keith
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85Red110 View Post
Not sure where on the harness you mean that ground wire should go. On that note, not sure where the harness grounds either....

The white/black comes from the harness (MAF sensor branch of the loom), and has no power.

------ Follow up post added July 7th, 2015 10:11 AM ------




Assuming I know what Im doing would be a mistake
White black into the harness with MAF should be on negative side of coil.
I can take a pic if you want or you can test the resistance against the WSM.
Test the solid white for power... wire disconnected & key on.
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  #38  
Old July 7th, 2015, 10:16 AM
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Okay. Stop and explain clearly where all four wires you have go to.
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  #39  
Old July 7th, 2015, 10:19 AM
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White/black connected to neg on coil. White wire has power.

White connected to positive on coil, still no fire.
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  #40  
Old July 7th, 2015, 10:20 AM
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bad coil? try a spare?
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