Stuck door tops - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old July 16th, 2008, 10:54 AM
Burke's Avatar
Burke
Status: Offline
Burke Bell
'94 NAS D90 #158
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Ponte Vedra Beach, FL
Posts: 1,016
Registry
Stuck door tops

Thought a search would pull something up, but.... I am trying to remove the door tops on my dad's '95 ST. He has owned it for about 3 yrs and they have never been off in that time. He did remove the nuts when he got it and replaced with the quick nuts off of his previous 90. Removed the quick nuts, but these tops are NOT moving. Tried tapping the bolt from underneath, and nothing. Also tried loosening liquid and nothing. Any ideas?

Thanks guys
__________________
"I race cars, play tennis, and fondle women, BUT! I have weekends off, and I am my own boss." - Arthur
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old July 16th, 2008, 10:58 AM
rmuller
Status: Offline
Ryan
1966 S2a 88" | 2006 LR3
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Caldwell, NJ
Posts: 1,056
I use a screw driver between the top and bottom and gently pry them apart.
__________________
Ryan
-------------
Current:
1966 Series IIa "Olive"
2001 Discovery II
2006 LR3 HSE7


Past: 1994 Defender 90 #416, 2001 Discovery II
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old July 16th, 2008, 11:12 AM
ctrover
Status: Offline
jim larson
1984 v8 127
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: ct
Posts: 103
put an old nut on the very bottom of the bolt-same thread size-and give it a good whack with a sizeable hammer.The old nut will protect the bolt threads.Worked well on my old rusty series window tops.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old July 16th, 2008, 11:29 AM
phoenix37's Avatar
phoenix37
Status: Offline
john
97 D90 ST / 1957 S1 109/ 1983 LS110
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Venice, CA/Yarmouth,ME
Posts: 5,782
Registry
just be careful not to hit the the door skin when you do it. My series has a nice set of "bubbles" on the outside of the door when i did the same thing.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old July 16th, 2008, 11:41 AM
Wolf Fabrication's Avatar
Wolf Fabrication
Status: Offline
Sterling Archer
'08 D3
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Oahu, HI
Posts: 7,453
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix37
just be careful not to hit the the door skin when you do it. My series has a nice set of "bubbles" on the outside of the door when i did the same thing.
Ditto, I made that mistake too. Place a piece of metal between the stud and the skin to protect it.
__________________
"The most unreliable car in the world is the most reliable car in the world." -Jeremy Clarkson refering to the Range Rover


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

Semper Fi!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old July 16th, 2008, 11:58 AM
Grover's Avatar
Grover
Status: Offline
Mike
Birmabright Bread Box/Swagger Wagon
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,856
Registry
Do not use a hammer directly on the door top studs...you will deeply regret it. Place a 2x4 under the stud and tap on it. Alternate between studs so the door top does not get cocked...

When you re-install it, spray waxoyl 120-4 or use axle grease on the studs to prevent further rusting...

Good luck...


Cheers...
__________________
LR3 sidesteps with rocker panels for sale $400


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old July 16th, 2008, 01:17 PM
cellulararrest's Avatar
cellulararrest
Status: Offline
Chris Snyder
1994 D90 #614 | '07 L322 SC
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Newburyport, MA
Posts: 1,544
Take the studs out. Put two nuts on the stud and loosen them up. I wouldn't do any of that prying stuff. You'll just chip your paint or dent your skins (both of which I did and neither worked anyway).
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old July 16th, 2008, 02:57 PM
Burke's Avatar
Burke
Status: Offline
Burke Bell
'94 NAS D90 #158
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Ponte Vedra Beach, FL
Posts: 1,016
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by cellulararrest
Take the studs out. Put two nuts on the stud and loosen them up. I wouldn't do any of that prying stuff. You'll just chip your paint or dent your skins (both of which I did and neither worked anyway).

What do you mean by taking them out Chris?
__________________
"I race cars, play tennis, and fondle women, BUT! I have weekends off, and I am my own boss." - Arthur
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old July 16th, 2008, 03:19 PM
Treuwer's Avatar
Treuwer
Status: Offline
Trae Reuwer
94 D90
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Ellicott City- MD
Posts: 255
The door studs themselves are threaded into the door tops. The idea is to remove them from the bottom out so that the only thing holding the door top on then is the seal.

What I would do is hit up on the door top frame itself using a rubber mallet (so you don't dent the tracks). It seems like a less likely place to damage anything by hitting- no door dents but you have to be careful about the glass tracks.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old July 16th, 2008, 03:37 PM
cellulararrest's Avatar
cellulararrest
Status: Offline
Chris Snyder
1994 D90 #614 | '07 L322 SC
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Newburyport, MA
Posts: 1,544
Quote:
Originally Posted by Burke
What do you mean by taking them out Chris?
Exactly what Trae said. They're threaded into the door tops. Once you remove the studs, there's nothing holding the door top on anymore.

Once you have the door tops off, you can thread the studs back into the door tops. It's a much less destructive way of getting them off.

Follow-up Post:

Here's a thread about it... http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...t=stud+removal
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old July 17th, 2008, 09:11 AM
Burke's Avatar
Burke
Status: Offline
Burke Bell
'94 NAS D90 #158
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Ponte Vedra Beach, FL
Posts: 1,016
Registry
Ahhh. Thanks guys. We will give that a try.
__________________
"I race cars, play tennis, and fondle women, BUT! I have weekends off, and I am my own boss." - Arthur
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old July 17th, 2008, 09:13 AM
flippedrover's Avatar
flippedrover
Status: Offline
Tyler
'94 D-90
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Ashburn,va
Posts: 3,123
also try a prybar.
__________________
Can't you feel 'em circlin' (closin'in) honey?
Can't you feel 'em swimmin' around?
You got fins to the left, fins to the right,
and you're the only bait in town.
You got fins to the left, fins to the right,
and you're the only girl in town.

Jimmy Buffett


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old July 17th, 2008, 09:16 AM
Burke's Avatar
Burke
Status: Offline
Burke Bell
'94 NAS D90 #158
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Ponte Vedra Beach, FL
Posts: 1,016
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by flippedrover
also try a prybar.
That will be next. Hell, it's not my 90...

Also, being as lazy as I can, does anyone happen to know the nut size?
__________________
"I race cars, play tennis, and fondle women, BUT! I have weekends off, and I am my own boss." - Arthur
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old July 17th, 2008, 09:47 AM
JimC's Avatar
JimC
Status: Offline
Jim Cheney
NAS 110 #145
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Stuttgart, Germany
Posts: 7,154
Registry
15mm I think. Either 15 or 17.

And slide a putty knife between the seal and the door top to separate the two. Its amazing how well that seal with adhere the door top to the door when its stuck.
__________________
Jim Cheney

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old July 17th, 2008, 09:51 AM
cellulararrest's Avatar
cellulararrest
Status: Offline
Chris Snyder
1994 D90 #614 | '07 L322 SC
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Newburyport, MA
Posts: 1,544
17mm feels right. I'd have to look. Just took mine off yesterday.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old July 23rd, 2008, 01:09 AM
Raider's Avatar
Raider
Status: Offline
Adam Knox
95 ST AA Yellow
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Pacific Grove, CA
Posts: 63
I used wooden shims from Home Depot. After removing the nuts from the studs, I started at one end and tapped the shim in between the shim and the door bottom using a rubber mallet. Then I started another sim a couple of inches further up...and so on and so forth.

Do NOT use a piece of string and try to pull it through the door and the seal. It leaves unsightly marks in the paint that don't buff out.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old July 23rd, 2008, 09:21 AM
Burke's Avatar
Burke
Status: Offline
Burke Bell
'94 NAS D90 #158
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Ponte Vedra Beach, FL
Posts: 1,016
Registry
Good idea with the shims Adam. I just happen to have some. That soft wood will probably not do any damage either?
We have not had a chance to work too hard on it, but my dad just retired down here from TN and really wants them off. He plans to keep it topless in the garage and actually start using it (currently has 15k miles). For all we know the tops have never been taken off...
__________________
"I race cars, play tennis, and fondle women, BUT! I have weekends off, and I am my own boss." - Arthur
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old July 23rd, 2008, 09:51 AM
paulb's Avatar
paulb
Status: Offline
Paul / Boultbee
1994 D-90, Green #1576
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Los Altos Hills California USA
Posts: 786
This is so funny - I did the same thing everyone else did - go slow and careful and use lubrication. My fav is Triflow that I get at the mountain bike shop.
But once you do get the door tops off, my question to you and all, how did (and to you Burke how will you) get the plastic slieves back into the tunnels where the bolts go for when the tops go back on? Mine do not fit, I even bought replacements from RN and still can not get them into place. Right now I jut put the tops back on without them but they do wobble a bit.
__________________
I'm contemplating thinking about thinking about it!
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old July 23rd, 2008, 11:50 AM
Burke's Avatar
Burke
Status: Offline
Burke Bell
'94 NAS D90 #158
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Ponte Vedra Beach, FL
Posts: 1,016
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulb
This is so funny - I did the same thing everyone else did - go slow and careful and use lubrication. My fav is Triflow that I get at the mountain bike shop.
But once you do get the door tops off, my question to you and all, how did (and to you Burke how will you) get the plastic slieves back into the tunnels where the bolts go for when the tops go back on? Mine do not fit, I even bought replacements from RN and still can not get them into place. Right now I jut put the tops back on without them but they do wobble a bit.
Interesting.... When messing with my dad's 90 I thought there was a difference from the doors on my '94. I do not have the sleeves either (and never have)... I can get mine tightened down ok, but not all the way. I have been running for 14 years that way so I guess we are ok Paul
__________________
"I race cars, play tennis, and fondle women, BUT! I have weekends off, and I am my own boss." - Arthur
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old July 23rd, 2008, 11:04 PM
hutch's Avatar
hutch
Status: Offline
Hutch
97 AA Yellow D90 ST
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Tampa Bay, Florida
Posts: 173
Registry
I managed to dent the door from the inside out using a hammer on my 95 - definitely avoid it. It's the tacky rubber that has more or less glued itself. What I did with my 97 was take silicone lubricant and sprayed it at the rubber and let it sit. Then with the window slid open I applied upward pressure on the top of the door tops from the open portion of the window. Hold the pressure there for 30 seconds to a minute (yes it's hell on your back) but what I found it that it eventually will start to separate - ones it does you are golden. You may need to do that few times - you'll feel like nothings happening but then it should separate. Mine peeled the paint off a bit but better than damaging the aluminum doors.

Hutch
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
door, door tops

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
D-90 stuck in Park, Won't start. HELP!!! brianosaurus Defender Technical Discussions 9 December 12th, 2007 09:45 AM
Help - Stuck in water for 3+ hours mfreeman17 Defender Technical Discussions 2 May 25th, 2005 08:10 AM
Brake Lights Stuck ON RoverWrecks Defender Technical Discussions 4 August 21st, 2004 11:26 AM
Stuck In Iraq javelinadave Misc. Chit-Chat 5 April 12th, 2004 07:53 PM
Stuck in the River! wicks Misc. Chit-Chat 0 February 2nd, 2004 04:27 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:46 AM.


Copyright