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  #21  
Old July 24th, 2008, 02:00 PM
cdb
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Clark Bowen
1969 Series 2a/OM617 Bugeye 88"
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Two thoughts (one stolen from Bill Burke)

Grind the studs a bit to make them narrower (his).
Open both sliders to the middle and push up hard on the right and left window frame top at the same time. I really slam them - using my palms - and it has always worked (eventually).

Clark
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  #22  
Old July 24th, 2008, 06:59 PM
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proulx70
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Paul S.
1997 NAS BRG Soft-Top
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Location: Studio City, CA
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The PO of my D90 did the hammer thing and I have two lovely dents in my driver door. I've attached a pic on the direction of travel to remove the studs. Also, bevery careful removing the door top, because the rubber seal will pull the paint right off the door; try to spray some silicone in there or something.

Good luck.
P~
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  #23  
Old July 25th, 2008, 09:39 AM
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Paul / Boultbee
1994 D-90, Green #1576
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I'll take mine off this weekend "for practice", See how it goes this year...Would love to take the doors off too, by my daughter (9) rides in the truck all the time and no door is just to scary for a weak hearted Dad! Of course I could buy a 5 strap racing seat, redo the seat sliders, add height extenders so she sees over the dash, re-upolster the seat to match the truck... huum, maybe the door tops are enought.
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  #24  
Old July 25th, 2008, 12:12 PM
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Flagg
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Flagg
1995 Defender 90 NAS
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Paul - I got a friend with a 1951 series 1. The door hinges are designed so that will not fall out normally, BUT you just open the door about 170 degrees and they lift right out. I might have a picture, but you probably know what I mean. I 'think' jeeps work the same way.

I wish our D90 doors were so easy to take on and off.........

Flagg
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  #25  
Old July 25th, 2008, 05:15 PM
Arnzo
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Andrew Arnott
1997 Defender 90
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Norwell, MA USA
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Good to see that I am not the only dummy that dimpled their door attempting to remove door tops. I ended up buying a new door and repainting. The door really need to be replaced, the the top support bar inside the door had pretty much rusted through and the cylinder in which the door top spindle sits was completely rusted out and no longer connected to the door. None the less, an expensive and stupid mistake. Bright side is the driver's side of my D-90 looks brand spankin new.
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  #26  
Old July 26th, 2008, 11:05 AM
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paulb
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Paul / Boultbee
1994 D-90, Green #1576
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Location: Los Altos Hills California USA
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Took the door tops off this morning once I got the angle right. They really do need to come up flat which took a couple of attempts. One side then the other . Once I got that, popped straight off in under 1 minute. Also, I'd forgotten I had cut a strip of neofoam and put it under each one so no sticking.
Lessons learned:
1. If you buy new spindles/bolts, get the extended type (is it RN who sells them?) so you are not fishing around inside the the door skin.
2. The plastic tube that come with them - useless
3. I have been running without bolts all year. As long as you do not do a lateral 360 with thetuck, no issue. Then again, doing a lateral 360, the door top will be at the bottom of my "Oh S@#t" meter.
4. Go to D-90 to learn what to do, or to see how like everyone else you are
5. More people than I thought have dimpled doors from this. As the saying goes "You are not alone!"
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  #27  
Old July 26th, 2008, 12:35 PM
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Jim Cheney
NAS 110 #145
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The "quick nuts" that Rovers North sells are TERRIBLE. Not only are they regular "gets rusty" steel, the come with some awful spray-on coating that flakes off and creates problems. Lastly, the knurled section is very small and hard to hold.

Atlantic British sells the quick-nuts that you want to have. They are made from stainless and are larger, so you can get a grip on them, and the knurled part is actually useful.
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