Stripped Injector Pump Bleed Screw - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 3rd, 2016, 10:08 AM
PJambo
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Stripped Injector Pump Bleed Screw

I ended up breaking one thing while trying to fix another.

I overtorqued the bleed screw atop the fuel injector pump and ~90% of the hole thread is now gone. The screw stays put, but is loose. The engine runs fine, but it leaks diesel out of the pump at a steady rate.

I'm thinking of retapping the hole and putting a slightly larger screw + copper washer in the newly tapped hole. Does anyone have any experience, good or bad, with this? I'm worried about metal shavings falling into the pump. Any good alternatives that anyone knows about?
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  #2  
Old June 3rd, 2016, 10:48 AM
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Looks like you could take the top "cover off to drill and tap. or last resort maybe drill and tap while its running if enough pressure it will keep shavings out. Who knows
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Old June 3rd, 2016, 12:24 PM
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ANY metal shavings inside the IP would spell the pump's ruin.
If you can pull the top off only, great, otherwise complete removal and repair is in order.
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  #4  
Old June 3rd, 2016, 12:33 PM
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Members here scrap 19J motors all the time. Perhaps you could find somebody to ship you a new cover, IP or an entire motor OR use this as an excuse to re-engine your truck.
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Old June 3rd, 2016, 12:59 PM
PJambo
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I'm leaning towards taking the cover off to keep the shavings out as suggested. Is the cover easy to take off and put back on with basic tools? Just don't want to strand myself in the garage if I could have taken it to the mechanic in one piece.

An engine swap is in the future for sure (when funds allow).
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Old June 3rd, 2016, 01:12 PM
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I'm not sure why newbies fear Google but I took the brave step of searching for a video on how to take the cover off and put it back together.
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Old June 3rd, 2016, 01:13 PM
PJambo
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I don't deny being a newbie as we all once were. I just didn't put the magic words into the Google machine as you were able to do. Thanks for the link!
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Old June 3rd, 2016, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PJambo View Post
I don't deny being a newbie as we all once were. I just didn't put the magic words into the Google machine as you were able to do. Thanks for the link!
Any time. Your motor is a 19J and there are tons of how to videos on pretty much any subject.
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  #9  
Old June 3rd, 2016, 01:44 PM
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Parker:
It is not trivial to remove the pump cover re-tap a hole and put it back together.
If you tap the threads less than perfectly centered, the fitting will leak because the surface of the housing will not be completely in straight alignment with the mating surface of the bolt.
Remember tight enough to hold it in place is about 10 pounds of torque, more and you run the risk of stripping out the threads, but by experience, you know that.

I would seek the advice of a machine shop that has provisions to tap it properly and at a minimum surface the housing around the hole to ensure the bolt will seat without leaking.
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  #10  
Old June 3rd, 2016, 01:47 PM
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Drain pump.

Hook up regulated shop air to the inlet of the pump at 5 PSI or so.

Tap the fitting whilst air pressure pushes all the chips out.

Done.
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  #11  
Old June 17th, 2016, 01:22 PM
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Just a follow up regarding my repair (bandaid actually):

To play it safe, I decided to go the route of removing and retapping the cover plate off the truck so that aluminum shavings wouldn't find their way to the injectors. I took the truck to my trusted non-LR mechanic. Long story short, neither he nor any of his Houston-area contacts were comfortable doing the job, so I took it back.

The area directly above the stripped hole has a half-inch of clearance or so, so I opted to JB-weld a piece of 1/4" aluminum over the hole. Before doing so, I drilled and tapped a new hole in the piece so that the bleed-screw functionality was preserved. Clearance is fine and doesn't get in the way of the IP swively bits.

It did the job and the truck runs just fine. This isn't the best solution IMO, but it was the best option for my situation as I plan on doing an engine swap in the not-too-distant future and couldn't find someone in the area comfortable removing the IP and messing with timing.


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