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  #1  
Old May 4th, 2005, 08:40 PM
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Dan Duncan
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Strange Noises from below

So I need some advice, When I'm driving faster than about 35mph and I have the truck in gear and I just let off the gas a little, I hear this noise coming from what sounds like the transfer case or the tranny or maybe even the rear diff. It kinda sounds like a worn U-joint but I've checked all of them and they are solid. Its almost like a grinding and if Im going faster I can feel it vibrate under my feet. Also, it seems to only do it when the truck has warmed up a bit. Its not getting any worse so I dont know what it is, does anybody have any ideas?
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  #2  
Old May 4th, 2005, 08:55 PM
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Giampaulo Cinquegrana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easy
So I need some advice, When I'm driving faster than about 35mph and I have the truck in gear and I just let off the gas a little, I hear this noise coming from what sounds like the transfer case or the tranny or maybe even the rear diff. It kinda sounds like a worn U-joint but I've checked all of them and they are solid. Its almost like a grinding and if Im going faster I can feel it vibrate under my feet. Also, it seems to only do it when the truck has warmed up a bit. Its not getting any worse so I dont know what it is, does anybody have any ideas?
Dan, I don't have a D90 but I have the exact same noise. I've had it since I bought the Disco and since then I've replaced the following (for other reasons): bearings on PS rear and converted over from Rotoflex to u-joint and the noise is still there. I have a feeling it's inside the diff because the noise is coming from the mid-rear section and it looks like the PO took the diff apart for some reason. I plan on taking apart the diff this weekend, if I find something I'll let you know.

Good luck.
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  #3  
Old May 4th, 2005, 08:58 PM
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Dan Duncan
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sweet, thanks. Yeah I was thinking it might have something to do with how my rear ARB was installed by the PO but I wanted to get a second opinion
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  #4  
Old May 5th, 2005, 02:09 AM
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Mike Hammond
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I'd check the gearbox, transferbox and rear diff oil levels first, followed by greasing the UJs and sliders on the props before pulling stuff apart. I always want to dive in and pull something major apart. My last episode of this was a road speed related knock - two knocks per wheel revolution, I'd convinced myself that the front axle needed striping down, got it all jacked up only to find that the wheel nuts were starting to back off.
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Old May 5th, 2005, 07:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover
I'd check the gearbox, transferbox and rear diff oil levels first, followed by greasing the UJs and sliders on the props before pulling stuff apart. I always want to dive in and pull something major apart. My last episode of this was a road speed related knock - two knocks per wheel revolution, I'd convinced myself that the front axle needed striping down, got it all jacked up only to find that the wheel nuts were starting to back off.
Thanks for the advice Mike. I can tell you that on my Disco the noise is not coming from the driveshaft since I recently converted from Roto to U joint and the noise was there before. The diff oil level is fine on mine. It could also be the transfer case, do you know what fails on the TC? the bearings?

Thanks again for your input and sorry Dan if I hijacked your thread.
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  #6  
Old May 5th, 2005, 10:52 AM
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Mike Hammond
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The transfer box is pretty indestructable provided that the oil level isO.K. the center diff doesn't much like being spun a lot, i.e. lots of wheel spin without the center diff being locked - there's not much space for the oil to get into the inner workings of the diff otherwise not much goes wrong unless its abused.
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  #7  
Old May 5th, 2005, 11:12 AM
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I agree with Mike H T-case's are tuff. I would try and eliminate every thing else mounted after it, like pull the front drive shaft, drive it, then pull the hub flanges off the front with the drive shaft off and drive it, that eliminates the front drive train. Then do the same for the rear, pull the rear drive shaft, then the rear axle shafts at the same time as the rear drive shaft, and you eliminate the rear end. There still could be bearing problems but they are easy enough to check when you pull the flanges and the shafts.
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  #8  
Old May 5th, 2005, 11:19 AM
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Have had this noise for quite a while

I have had the same noise for quite a while. Rebuilt the entire rear diff and placed a trutrac in it. It continued. My mechanic redid it one more time and it lessened (he checked the backlash and tighted it a little and it did not correct the problem but its not as loud). Checked all bearings, u joints all were ok. It is still doing it. Seems to come and go some depending on heat, cold, wet and dry weather. I have been told it could be the drive shafts. Not balanced or something along those lines. Last it was suggested to me that it might be a "throw-out" bearing in the transmission. However it had a brandnew R380 installed within the last 10k, so I do not think that would be it. I am sure I have not helped you one bit but if you figure it out please let me know.

Good Luck,
Larry
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  #9  
Old May 5th, 2005, 12:41 PM
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Doug Walker
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I've been driving for 40K miles with that rumble. It's from the rear diff on my rig. Mike Smith at East Coast Rovers said not to worry about it -- he said it's normal and the fix is aligning the pinion angles on the rear drive shaft, but then you get into internal lube issues within the diff and better to leave it level. That's on a Salisbury anyway. I don't pay any attention to it now. My Sals has 110K miles on it, never been opened. Knocking on wood as i type....

Doug W.
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  #10  
Old May 5th, 2005, 12:47 PM
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Dan Duncan
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yeah I was kinda thinking it had something to do with the pinion angles because of my 2" lift. Ive checked all the fluids and Ive been greasing the UJs and propshafts regularly.
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Old May 5th, 2005, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easy
So I need some advice, When I'm driving faster than about 35mph and I have the truck in gear and I just let off the gas a little, I hear this noise coming from what sounds like the transfer case or the tranny or maybe even the rear diff. It kinda sounds like a worn U-joint but I've checked all of them and they are solid. Its almost like a grinding and if Im going faster I can feel it vibrate under my feet. Also, it seems to only do it when the truck has warmed up a bit. Its not getting any worse so I dont know what it is, does anybody have any ideas?
This is a comming pinion angle problem. Mine did it 6 mo after I put the OME lift on it.I drove it with the problem for 18+ mo with the only issue being it drove me nuts. After exensive research on driveshaft angles and some time under the truck with an angle gage I found that the pinion angle and the output angle from the transfer case were 5 degrees out of sync.

3/4 inch longer control arms fixed it for me.

Most people will tell you to go with a Tom Woods drive shaft. I actually talked to those guys for a 1/2 hour on the phone. They convinced me to get the drive shaft angles right first, and then look at a new shaft second. (Those guys were great.)
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  #12  
Old May 5th, 2005, 01:40 PM
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Leave it alone if it isn't driving you nuts. I have had it on at least 4 of my Rovers. It is tha backlash in the diffs. Hard to tell which one sometime because it runs throughout the drive train. It happens because there is too much baaklash in one of the diffs and when you let off of the fuel it slaps against the coast side of the ring gear. It is very annoying and can get quite bad,but that can take years before it is unbearable. The T-box can also cause a similar problem,but less likely.
Bill Davis is your best bet for a correctly set up diff on a Rover.
I also have to agree with Mike. It can be agravated by the driveshafts.
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  #13  
Old May 5th, 2005, 01:45 PM
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My 96 Disco with 3" lift and stock trailing arms does not have this problem, yet my 95 D1 with 2.5" lift and modified trailing arms does..... I'm sure the PO had the rear diff replaced and they didn't set it up properly. Thanks folks.
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  #14  
Old May 5th, 2005, 03:08 PM
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Dan Duncan
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Thanks guys, thats kinda what I was thinking it was. any suggestions on trailing arms? Rovertyms look pretty cool, what do you guys think?
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  #15  
Old May 5th, 2005, 03:18 PM
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I built mine myself but Kieth at RoverTracks would do you a good job.

Determining the right length is a Pain in the ASS I could walk you through how to do it if you want.
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  #16  
Old May 5th, 2005, 03:37 PM
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Hi Mike!

Can you explain the puiling of the hub flanges in a little more detail? Are you saying to pull the axle shafts?

I picked up a one HELL of a driveline vibration while at Rausch. I pulled the front driveshaft and it hasn't helped (although the u-joints do need to be replaced as they only move one direction ). I have ordered u-joints and will just do them all for good measure. But it doesn't sound like I have tested the front drivetrain fully.

I also noticed a lot of play in either the front diff, or the transfer case, or both. With the vehicle stationary I can twist the front driveshaft back and forth far more than I'd like. Any idea how to tighten that up?

thanks
charles


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hippert
I agree with Mike H T-case's are tuff. I would try and eliminate every thing else mounted after it, like pull the front drive shaft, drive it, then pull the hub flanges off the front with the drive shaft off and drive it, that eliminates the front drive train. Then do the same for the rear, pull the rear drive shaft, then the rear axle shafts at the same time as the rear drive shaft, and you eliminate the rear end. There still could be bearing problems but they are easy enough to check when you pull the flanges and the shafts.
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  #17  
Old May 5th, 2005, 03:49 PM
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Charles, it's probably your front bumper banging against your tire
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  #18  
Old May 5th, 2005, 06:27 PM
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LOL Dave!

Charles you have alloy wheels right? Well if so not as easy but pull the wheel off, there is a small plastic cap you need to pry off, under the cap is a circle clip and a spacer you need to pull off. Then there are 5 (or is it 6) bolts holding the flang on the end of the axle. Pull them out, then the flang should come off with maybe a little prying. Those bolts are what drive the hub from the axle, by removing them the axle will no longer turn, the hub basicly spinns free of the drivetrain. With the drive shaft off and the flange off the only part that will move in the front end will be the wheels and the hub, so the only vibs would be from the bearings, as the the CVs, axles and the diff are no longer turning.
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  #19  
Old May 6th, 2005, 09:09 PM
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Charles Galpin
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LOL. Ok, I assumed it wasn't a good idea to drive with the flanges unbolted like that - I assumed you'd need to pull the axle shafts.

I'll give it a try before putting the driveshaft back in, thanks!

charles
p.s. FU Dave
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  #20  
Old May 7th, 2005, 07:38 AM
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If I remember correctly from my two wheel drive expierence all you do is take the flanges off and leave the rest of the axle bits in there.
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