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  #21  
Old May 7th, 2005, 10:47 AM
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Yep leave the rest in, just don't go mudding, you don't want to get too much dirt in there.
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first then ask questions later! The loose nut behind the wheel
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  #22  
Old May 7th, 2005, 01:04 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Shucks, and I wanted to see how well she'd perform in rear wheel drive

charles
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  #23  
Old May 7th, 2005, 10:17 PM
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So I think I want to get new trailing arms and I'm hoping that will fix this problem and if it doesnt then I'll at least get a little more articulation right? But I do have another question, I have an OME 2" lift and If I got new trailing arms would I need a new driveline? Because it seems like it would put a little bit more of an angle on the U joints.
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  #24  
Old May 8th, 2005, 08:59 AM
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Mike
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YOu guys are on the right track. This occurs when you lift the Rover. It changes the angle in the driveshaft. I understand that it is harmless but annoying. Everyone that has this problem has a lift on their vehicle as far as I know. Mine does it at 45-50 mph when I let off the gas. It sounds like I am running over those grids on the side of the road. The weak link in the line is the u-joints and should be the first to go therefore you are not at risk for damaging the drivetrain seriously. The only fix I know of is as you giuys have stated, longer driveshaft and trailing arms. Good Luck and let us know how things turn out.
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  #25  
Old May 8th, 2005, 09:57 AM
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NO NO NO! Do you know how much damage can be done if a U-joint goes while on the highway! It will either smack around underneath taking out the T-case tranny and anything else within it's reach or it will catch the ground and flip your 90 over while traveling at 75 mph, NOT cool at all! You should be able to get all the vibes out of your dive train with everything lined up right. I run 4" of lift and I had no vibes with a stock driveshaft. When sitting level the T-case rear output and the pinion on the rear diff should be level or close to. Another thing people don't realize is that the spine on the driveshaft should go back together the same way it came apart. If not the U-joints won't be lined up and this will cause bad vibes.
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  #26  
Old May 8th, 2005, 10:09 AM
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Sorry, I did not mean that it wasn't safe (although the message does seem that way, my bad). Obviously, a weak u-joint is a hazard. I was mostly refering to the vibes damaging the other parts barring the damage that could occur while driving and having the u-joint break. It would be prudent to correct the vibration, of coarse.
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  #27  
Old May 8th, 2005, 10:36 AM
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Cool I just didn't want anyone driving down the road with a driveshaft that was about to explode into a bunch of other problems.
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  #28  
Old May 11th, 2005, 10:40 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Hey, just wanted to report back. I never did unbolt the front flanges as it was painfully obvious that my u-joints were shot, both front and rear. I replaced all 4 u-joints and all the vibes are gone! I think if I had gone any longer, I would have had a driveshaft explode too.

Next up - figure out whats causing the the occasional death wobble I get in the steering .

Thanks for all the advise.

charles
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  #29  
Old May 11th, 2005, 10:50 PM
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I'm having the death wobble too charles, I'm pretty sure its my panhard rod bushings but I haven't gotten around to replacing them, they dont want to come out of there! But you could have the same problem.
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  #30  
Old May 12th, 2005, 08:43 AM
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Robert Dassler
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I've put many lifts in Rovers and occasionally after a lift is installed there will be a vibrating noise (like hitting the rumble strip on the side of the highway) on 'float' at highway speeds...get on or off of the gas and it will quit. I spent quite a bit of time locating the source of the noise with a Chassis Ear and found that the pinion angles being out of spec would set up a vibration and cause the coil springs to resonate and make the noise...have seen it from the front(sometimes) and rear(usually) on all models of Rovers...some do it, some don't. I think it's down to build tolerances and where the pinion angles end up after a lift. It is generally accepted that regular u-joints are good for up to about 7 degrees in normal operation (highway driving). All of the trucks that I dealt with that vibrated had angles of over 7 degrees. D.C. driveshafts and different suspension arms that correct the driveline angles have been very successful in eliminating the vibration.
Rob
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  #31  
Old May 12th, 2005, 08:54 AM
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Wow, thats pretty cool. Never thought the drive shaftes would vibrate the springs.
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  #32  
Old May 12th, 2005, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin

Next up - figure out whats causing the the occasional death wobble I get in the steering .

charles
Check the wheel balance and the pre-load on the swivels, the book says it should be done with the oil seals removed
Make sure there's no play in any of the steering ball joints or the UJs in the steering gear. Very occasionally the drop arm will work loose on tthe steering box
Oh and make sure the steering damper hasn't got a weak spot in the straight ahead position.

It's realy just a case of making sure the front end is set up as it should be and theres no slack or wear in the components.
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  #33  
Old May 12th, 2005, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover
Oh and make sure the steering damper hasn't got a weak spot in the straight ahead position.
How do you check this?
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  #34  
Old May 13th, 2005, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easy
How do you check this?
Take the damper off, hold one end in a vice and work it over it's whole travel or by replacing it with a new one if it's old and crusty with rust.
If there's a spot with slightly less resistance at the straight ahead position that could be the culprit.
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  #35  
Old May 17th, 2005, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easy
So I need some advice, When I'm driving faster than about 35mph and I have the truck in gear and I just let off the gas a little, I hear this noise coming from what sounds like the transfer case or the tranny or maybe even the rear diff. It kinda sounds like a worn U-joint but I've checked all of them and they are solid. Its almost like a grinding and if Im going faster I can feel it vibrate under my feet. Also, it seems to only do it when the truck has warmed up a bit. Its not getting any worse so I dont know what it is, does anybody have any ideas?
Dan,

I removed the rear diff and the rear axles on my Disco and took it for a spin, noise is gone. So it looks like it's the diff (ring and pinion to be more precise). There's a lot of play on the R&P (space between the teeth).

So my options are:

1. Replace with Toyota parts (I'm still investigating this option).
2. Get a diff and lockers from the UK.
3. Get a used low mileage from Will Tilery.

Just thought I'd let you know.

Good luck.
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  #36  
Old June 21st, 2005, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadsiderob
(...)found that the pinion angles being out of spec would set up a vibration and cause the coil springs to resonate and make the noise...have seen it from the front(sometimes) and rear(usually) on all models of Rovers
I'm posting here so no need to start a similar thread.
As my 90 started "resonating" after the lift (barely +2" new springs)
I had a couple of custom propshafts made
which work @ slightly wider angle.

Noise is still there though,heard a friend last weekend and
he killed the vibes just adding 4 rubberized spring isolators.
Gone.

In fact it sounds like the noise moves from side to side depending
on turns and weight transfer while moving...


I think it's worth a try...?
(cheap option)
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  #37  
Old June 21st, 2005, 08:55 AM
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JohnC:
Sounds like the backlash needs to be reset so why not fix taht first? My D90 just started doing the same, after 9 months on a 2" lift. I also learned that earlier diffs were adjusted by simply turning bolts to adjust backlash. Then LR changed the procedure to painting the teeth and looking for the "right" pattern after you install and turn the diff. You pull it out and look at the pattern, adjust, repaint, reinstall - repeat procedure. This is a pain and takes some time.

So, you can search for an early type diff that does it the easier way but I don;t know exactly when the changeover occurred.

If you can't eliminate the vibe by backlash adjustment then your options are:

1. lengthen the rear links to tilt down and bring the diff more parallel to transfer case output. If your angle is then acceptable for uj's you may be lucky and that'll do it.

2. if that angle is too much , then tilt the diff up and get a CV shaft.

3. get a double CV shaft and leave diff as is. $$$


Cube II:
so you eliminated feeling the vibe but it's still there. What good is that?
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  #38  
Old June 21st, 2005, 09:31 AM
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If it really is a spring which rattles the isolator will keep it in place...?

I think...?


It absorbs vibes...that's what it's supposed to do...

That's what I asked,just a though.

I'm almost sure my shafts don't rattle.
Again,if it's just a spring,well,it's just noise!

Or not...?

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