Stranded in Moab (sort of) - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old May 27th, 2006, 05:04 PM
chris snell's Avatar
chris snell
Status: Offline
Chris Snell
87 Ex-MOD 110
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 2,439
Stranded in Moab (sort of)

Well, my Memorial Day weekend trip from Park City to Telluride came to an abrubt halt this morning. Trouble started last night outside of Spanish Fork when my truck suddenly overheated after a roadside bathroom break. The Check Engine light came on. I took it back to town and found that my radiator (with 3-week-old core) was almost half-empty. I bought water and coolant (shame on me for not having them already) at Wal-Mart and re-filled it. The truck ran fine all the way to my BLM campsite somwhere outside of Price. The next morning, I checked the fluids and headed off for Telluride again. At Crescent Junction, it started overheating again. The temp gauge was bouncing between about 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock. I limped into Moab and got breakfast while the engine cooled. After b'fast, I checked the radiator again--about 85% full. Strange. I topped off again and took it to a 4x4 shop a few miles south of town. We played with the fan and the fan clutch seemed like it might be a little bit too "slacky". The mechanic said that he couldn't do anything for me until Tuesday because he'd have to order a fan clutch. Desperate, I got on the Intarweb and looked up Bill Burke who I knew lives in Fruita. Bill was kind enough to return my call and said that he didn't have any fan clutches but gave me a good piece of advice: tack weld (or JB Weld) the clutch together. Lacking a big enough wrench, I had the mechanic pull it off for me. He said that he could not weld it because the clutch body made of aluminum and the shaft, of steel. So, we're going the JB Weld route. Now I'm chillin' in the internet cafe, waiting for this stuff to set.

So, a couple of questions for you guys:

1) Am I a fool for continuing on to Telluride after this? I'm not doing any wheeling up there, just camping and mountain biking.

2) The check engine light...would an overheating situation alone set that off? Could there be something else wrong? Any ideas? The water pump casing looked clean of coolant and the coolant seems nice and green and does not smell of exhaust. There's no foam that I can see down the oil filler port.

Well, on a lighter note, anybody hanging out in To-hell-u-ride or nearby this weekend?

Happy Rovering,

Chris
__________________
1987 Ex-MOD 110 Tithonus LHD
2013 LR4


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old May 27th, 2006, 05:35 PM
Davis's Avatar
Davis
Status: Offline
Chris Davis
94 NAS D90 6.2LS
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,507
First of all, you can just wind string inbetween the fan clutch and the housing and it will bind it up just fine. Others have taken a screw and drilled it right through the housing, but since you don't know if it is the clutch or not, it would be a shame to wreck it. I would use string.

Personally, I would find out what is wrong--the fact that you were so low on coolant can be because you overheated and it went out the overflow, but it could be due to another loss such as a head gasket or something. I would deduce that before going outside of town. I would recommend that you go to the garage and borrow their block tester (or buy one at napa in Moab for about $50). What you do is, with the engine cool (so you can open the overflow tank), let the truck idle for about 5 minutes, open the overflow tank, and put the block tester filled with the blue fluid (looks like a giant test tube) onto the top of the tank and pump the suction valve (it will make sense when you see the block tester). If the fluid stays blue, you are good (it means there are no exhaust gases in your coolant), if it turns yellow, then you have issues (pourous block, bad headgasket, dropped liner, who knows) and that would be why you are overheating. If you are leaking coolant into your block you may have condensation coming out your exhaust at startup or run, or you may need to peer into the cylinders with one of the scopes (should be available at a good shop)--what you are looking for is a very clean cylinder head. If there was water leaking into the cylinder, it will have steamed cleaned it (usually). You may be able to check the spark plugs for a really clean one, but I don't know that for a fact.

Bottom line is try and deduce the cause--it is easy to blame it on the fan clutch (as I did, but was wrong). If you need a new fan clutch, I have one that is used with about 50K on it and works fine, and a nearly new one with maybe 2000 miles on it. My probably was a slipped liner, and I redid everything including a new radiator and electric fans before I really tried to find the route of the problem...

If you need other help, call me. I am pm'ing you with my cell.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old May 27th, 2006, 05:40 PM
chris snell's Avatar
chris snell
Status: Offline
Chris Snell
87 Ex-MOD 110
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 2,439
Thanks Chris,

I'll see if the auto parts store here has a block tester kit. The coolant looked and smelled fine last night when I checked it. I noticed that my overflow reservoir cap is funky and old. I wonder if this could be a culprit? I'll probably replace it anyway.

Well, it's too late to save the fan cluch. Lacking other options, I decided to have it JB Welded together. I'll have to replace it when I get back to Northern Utah.

Thanks for the advice,

Chris
__________________
1987 Ex-MOD 110 Tithonus LHD
2013 LR4


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old May 27th, 2006, 11:32 PM
Davis's Avatar
Davis
Status: Offline
Chris Davis
94 NAS D90 6.2LS
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,507
A bad cap could do it, as could other air leaks into the coolant system. The biggest thing to tell is where the coolant is going. You may want to consider rubber banding a piece of fabric or something at the overflow and see if it is getting by there.

Hope all is well--drop a line if you need something.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old May 28th, 2006, 04:44 AM
mikeslandrover's Avatar
mikeslandrover
Status: Offline
Mike Hammond
110 200Tdi and a 2005 Scorpa SY250
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Oxted, Surrey, England, U.K
Posts: 1,756
Registry
Just a thought (and i don't know if the newer motors still have them), Is there a bleed pipe from the top of the inlet manifold to the rad? Is it clear? You can get trouble if not.
__________________
Mike Hammond
Diesels.....great when they're going and so easy to work on.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old May 28th, 2006, 04:20 PM
RoverChic's Avatar
RoverChic
Status: Offline
D-90 Source P.I.
02 D2, 13 E350 AMG, 11 Ford F350
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 342
Chris-Sorry to hear about this! I can understand as I was stranded in ALB, New Mexico after a trip to MOAB just a few weeks ago. Luckily, my angels were watching me and Rob Dassler got me out of a real pickle! Fan clutch- There is a NAPA store off the Main Street in UTAH that you can buy a clutch from. It will fit the 1994 here is the part number: Napa #271304. This is a direct replacement and will work with that truck. Good luck! I know how it feels, but it will all work out!

Here is the other Part # 215157 Imperial Fan Clutch from Advance Auto, that requires some rigging. But is only $66. Here is the info on changing it out courtesy of DiscoJen:

Parts needed:
Fan clutch 215157 ($66.96)
4 Bolts (Help! kit # 14040 10x1.5x15mm four pack) ($5.98)
10mm drill bit or reamer (had an old bit laying around, think I used a 3/8" bit)

Installation:
Remove your fan blade assembly from the old clutch
Ream out the 4 mounting holes on fan blade assembly to fit the 10mm bolts from the Help! kit
Bolt your fan blade assembly onto the new clutch with your Help! bolts
Reinstall onto your water pump and you are good to go
__________________
Quote:
I bought the diamonds myself so I would not have to say thank you to anyone.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old May 28th, 2006, 05:03 PM
Chris V

Guest
 
Posts: n/a
If your core was just replaced a few weeks ago I would get it up to temp (at night) and pop the hood with a flash light look for leaks. This is easier at night because the fluid will show up as a rainbow when the light hits lite . Some times the leaks are pin holes so you will not see a puddle on the ground but pressurize the system and a fine mist will be forced out, inevitably being blown by the fan on the hot engine and evaporate (no trace of a leak) Replace all your caps to make sure they are fine , and the last step is drain your engine oil , make sure there is no coolant in it (sign of bad head gasket) Coolant has a pretty distinct scent if it's leaking you should be able to smell it. Do everything to avoid adding stop leak to the fluid.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old May 28th, 2006, 10:58 PM
artm
Status: Offline
Arthur Maravelis
97 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Boston, MA USA
Posts: 985
Those replacement part numbers show different rotations. Obviously, only one will work.

I wouldn't mind using NAPA replacements as long as the part's not made in China or such.

This may even qualify for a lifetime warranty. Now that would be a deal and a half!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old May 29th, 2006, 10:57 AM
RoverChic's Avatar
RoverChic
Status: Offline
D-90 Source P.I.
02 D2, 13 E350 AMG, 11 Ford F350
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 342
Quote:
Originally Posted by artm
Those replacement part numbers show different rotations. Obviously, only one will work.

I wouldn't mind using NAPA replacements as long as the part's not made in China or such.

This may even qualify for a lifetime warranty. Now that would be a deal and a half!
Yes they have the lifetime warranty. Let me double check the part numbers and see, it might actually be the Advance Auto part number as that is the one I used before (and KNOW works) BUT I do know there is a NAPA replacement. Let me do some checking for ya!
__________________
Quote:
I bought the diamonds myself so I would not have to say thank you to anyone.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old May 30th, 2006, 02:27 AM
chris snell's Avatar
chris snell
Status: Offline
Chris Snell
87 Ex-MOD 110
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 2,439
Well, I made it back home safely. No more overheating. I'm gonna take it to the mechanic who did the new core this week to see what he says.

The drive home today was brutal. Telluride -> Park City by way of Grand Junction, Rangely, Vernal, and Duchesne, nursing a sore throat and a cough the whole way. A big cold front came in a day or two ago and I was driving without my soft top or windows. 34 at Duchesne, brrr! I was bundled up in 4 layers of clothing and windproof jacket (hood up), plus a polypro cap. I had my OR mittens on and my hands were still cold! I can't feel too bad for myself, though. Coming down the other side of the pass at Strawberry Reservoir, I saw some poor bastard going the other way on a motorcycle!

D-90 sightings:

A green SW in Telluride outside of a bank.
A red ST without sides in Fruita
__________________
1987 Ex-MOD 110 Tithonus LHD
2013 LR4


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
/
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old May 31st, 2006, 12:25 PM
Etrier
Status: Offline
Jonah Thompson
1994 D90 ST
Member
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, PA USA
Posts: 24
Can anyone confirm that the NAPA #271304 fan clutch is a direct replacement for the 94 D90 3.9? I see on another thread the Advance Auto part number listed did not fit (shaft too long)
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old June 1st, 2006, 01:26 PM
RoverChic's Avatar
RoverChic
Status: Offline
D-90 Source P.I.
02 D2, 13 E350 AMG, 11 Ford F350
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 342
Quote:
Originally Posted by Etrier
Can anyone confirm that the NAPA #271304 fan clutch is a direct replacement for the 94 D90 3.9? I see on another thread the Advance Auto part number listed did not fit (shaft too long)
NAPA: TEM 271312 (severe-duty)

OK this should be the right part number for the 3.9L Engine...I asked around this time. Sorry for the confusion, the info I posted prior would have been for a 4.0L Discovery.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by RoverChic
NAPA: TEM 271312 (severe-duty)

OK this should be the right part number for the 3.9L Engine...I asked around this time. Sorry for the confusion, the info I posted prior would have been for a 4.0L Discovery.
Item#: TEM271312

Price: $80.49
tax and shipping not included

Disclaimer: The stated price may vary from the in store price and may change at anytime.

Usually ships in 24 hours.



Attributes:
Bolt Circle Diameter:N/A
Fan Mount Diameter:2.5"
2.0"
Fan Mount Height:1.75"
Height:3.86"
Overall Diameter:6.45"
Pilot Diameter:M30x1.5-6H RT X .512 DP
Rotation:Counterclockwise
Style:Severe Duty
__________________
Quote:
I bought the diamonds myself so I would not have to say thank you to anyone.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old June 2nd, 2006, 12:51 PM
souza's Avatar
souza
Status: Offline
Dave Souza
1995 Defender 90 SW #275
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Foster, RI, USA
Posts: 376
Ok, I've just returned empty handed from Napa. Once again, this TEM 271312 fan clutch doesn't fit the 3.9 V8 water pumps. Though I never compared the rotations that Art mentioned, this fan's shaft is too long, and the water pump nut is too large. It appeared to be similar to the Imperial from Advance Auto. I brought my old one with me this time for comparison.

So, I guess I'm still going back to the electric fans.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hippert
I could run circles around Dave Souzas 90
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old June 2nd, 2006, 10:43 PM
RoverChic's Avatar
RoverChic
Status: Offline
D-90 Source P.I.
02 D2, 13 E350 AMG, 11 Ford F350
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 342
Red face

Quote:
Originally Posted by souza
Ok, I've just returned empty handed from Napa. Once again, this TEM 271312 fan clutch doesn't fit the 3.9 V8 water pumps. Though I never compared the rotations that Art mentioned, this fan's shaft is too long, and the water pump nut is too large. It appeared to be similar to the Imperial from Advance Auto. I brought my old one with me this time for comparison.

So, I guess I'm still going back to the electric fans.
STC4378 Discovery I, II (all year), Range Rover Classic (1995), Range Rover 4.0/4.6 (all year), Defender (97), LR Genuine NEW $260



OK That info above is from RoverConnection on the WaterPump. I have used that NAPA Fan Clutch in my 1998 Disco and 2001 Disco 2, it does look like the 1997 Defender shares the same waterpump as my truck. However it looks as though the Defender (93~95), requires a DIFFERENT water pump (diferent part number) than the other vehicles. This might be why these clutches are not working.....Let me keep doing some more research and ask around....Well at least we know now. It looks as though my part numbers only work with the 1997 Defender.


__________________
Quote:
I bought the diamonds myself so I would not have to say thank you to anyone.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old July 15th, 2006, 12:27 AM
Billakris's Avatar
Billakris
Status: Offline
Kris
Alpine White 95 Soft Top
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Kansas City/ Manhattan, KS
Posts: 271
does anyone know about the fan clutch for a 95 yet?

Is genuine really the only way to go? I cant believe that...
__________________
Kris
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old July 15th, 2006, 09:18 AM
thewap's Avatar
thewap
Status: Offline
Marc
'95 D90 SW#106
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Highmount, NY
Posts: 834
Registry
British Atlantic VISCOUS FAN CLUTCH - 3.9
Item: ERC5708



$139.95
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old July 15th, 2006, 10:08 AM
Davis's Avatar
Davis
Status: Offline
Chris Davis
94 NAS D90 6.2LS
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,507
I have two fan clutches--one has about 75K and I replaced it with a new one but was still overheating--those that know my saga know that it was a leaking block, not the fan clutch. I replaced my fans with electric.

If you want the "newer" one (about 5K miles, perfect condition), I will sell it for $65. If you want both (both work), then $85. Plus shipping, but actual freight. If you get them and for any reason you don't want them, I will take them back--I guarantee they work, although the older one is just that--older.

Chris
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
BLM Decision - Moab Monkeyboy Trips, Trails and Events 4 January 27th, 2006 03:58 PM
Moab Nov 6-12 m.olivares Trips, Trails and Events 3 October 31st, 2005 10:51 AM
Moab! TwisteD90 Trips, Trails and Events 20 October 19th, 2005 11:37 PM
RV rental in Moab flippedrover Misc. Chit-Chat 2 August 16th, 2005 03:07 PM
trails in Moab! TwisteD90 Trips, Trails and Events 21 April 19th, 2004 02:01 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:03 AM.


Copyright