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  #1  
Old March 11th, 2012, 08:38 AM
sundogcwolfe
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Charles R. Wolfe
1984 110, 300Tdi
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Stranded ignition security lock to

So I am in a real pickle and need,solution desparately.....

My Defender is a 1984 110 that was converted professionally in the UK to 300tdi with transmission and drivetrain upgrade. At the same time, a landrovernet security system was installed hat involves a green box behind dash, a black box in battery compartment, a sensor on window, and presumably, door switched. And a black key fob with two buttons.







So after leaving it parked for a week, it will not let me start it. The ignition is locked out. I retried the unlock and the lock button to no avail. I tried changing fob battery, no result. When I turn key, the blinking red dash light turns solid (and other warning indicators turn on as expected) but nothing happens. The only sign of life was,once when getting in an out of truck, the alarm beeped twice in succession when I opened or closed the door.

I am 1300 miles,from home and have urgent family needs and I am stranded. The tech savvy colletive on the internrt is my great hope. Please help.

Thank you.
I am sitting out in my truck on a remote park, luckily with some Internet access on my iPad. I will anxiously following tread.

Cwolfe
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  #2  
Old March 11th, 2012, 09:28 AM
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On a LR alarm module, Green, the alarm breaks the power feed to the injection pump solenoid. The alarm also breaks the interior light switch at the drivers door. The rest of the connections could be done away with for the normal operation of the truck I would guess. Find a switched power and connect it up to the injection pump solenoid. This will be your fuel cut off so do not connect a hot lead unless you have some way to break the current flow. After you get it running you can do away with the alarm, if you want, as long as you get a switched power feed to the injection pump and bridge a wire for the interior lights.
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  #3  
Old March 11th, 2012, 09:44 AM
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You could try to disconnect the battery, turn the key to on and then reconnect the battery ... You'd then hopefully be able to turn the key one more click to start it

This used to bypass my expensive motorbike alarm. The theory being that the the alarm shouldn't immobilize a running vehicle. If you are in a jam it's worth a try.
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  #4  
Old March 11th, 2012, 11:04 AM
sundogcwolfe
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Charles R. Wolfe
1984 110, 300Tdi
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My 300 tdi injector pump has three wires gong to the top of it and one going to the back of it.. What do I need to do to jump power to this and bypass my malfunctioning security lockout?
Cwolfe
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  #5  
Old March 11th, 2012, 12:01 PM
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On the injector pump, you will see where the metal lines come out the back and feed each injector fuel. In the same area on the pump is the fuel cut off solenoid, it should have a single wire going to it. This wire needs to be charged positive (+) to allow fuel to flow into the pump. I don't don't know what the wires going to the top do (mine doesn't have them) possible EGR system. The one on the back is the ticket.

There must be a relay too that is cutting off power to the starter, as you make no mention of it turning over. Maybe someone here in the forum knows it's location.
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  #6  
Old March 11th, 2012, 01:49 PM
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jim pendleton
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Sounds like a VIN swap truck to me. Why would someone go to the trouble of putting the crappy LR imobilizer on a rebuild or restoration. Oh well

Your injection pump needs to be powered up as "Macgyver" said. But he is not familar with the setup you are describing. You have three wires coming out of a box that is mounted on your injection pump. That box just covers up the normal type of cut off solenoid. You can break this box up and find the original style cut off solenoid with a single connection. I have posted pictures of this item being broken up in the past on D90 source so you can maybe search for pictures.

So break this box up. Run power to the single lead on the cutt off solenoid. Maybe cut some wiring up from your alarm system you need to trash if you do not have any available. You could jump power from the starter input or alternator output. Then you need to put the transmission in neutral and pull the parking brake. Jump power to the starter input signal to start the truck and push on.

Good Luck




Quote:
Originally Posted by sundogcwolfe View Post
So I am in a real pickle and need,solution desparately.....

My Defender is a 1984 110 that was converted professionally in the UK to 300tdi with transmission and drivetrain upgrade. At the same time, a landrovernet security system was installed hat involves a green box behind dash, a black box in battery compartment, a sensor on window, and presumably, door switched. And a black key fob with two buttons.







So after leaving it parked for a week, it will not let me start it. The ignition is locked out. I retried the unlock and the lock button to no avail. I tried changing fob battery, no result. When I turn key, the blinking red dash light turns solid (and other warning indicators turn on as expected) but nothing happens. The only sign of life was,once when getting in an out of truck, the alarm beeped twice in succession when I opened or closed the door.

I am 1300 miles,from home and have urgent family needs and I am stranded. The tech savvy colletive on the internrt is my great hope. Please help.

Thank you.
I am sitting out in my truck on a remote park, luckily with some Internet access on my iPad. I will anxiously following tread.

Cwolfe
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  #7  
Old March 11th, 2012, 03:40 PM
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Rob
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More than likely the fob is the problem. This happened to me yesterday. I still have the factory alarm.
Check the battery holder and that the 3 points that are soldered are still connected. If that is ok, check the contact for the battery, where the coin cell touches the board.....scrape it with something...key...knife etc..... That point oxidizes and stops the contact....that with a fresh battery and that should do it.

Good luck.
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  #8  
Old March 11th, 2012, 06:17 PM
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Pot calling the kettle black

Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy View Post
Sounds like a VIN swap truck to me. Why would someone go to the trouble of putting the crappy LR imobilizer on a rebuild or restoration. Oh well

Your injection pump needs to be powered up as "Macgyver" said. But he is not familar with the setup you are describing. You have three wires coming out of a box that is mounted on your injection pump. That box just covers up the normal type of cut off solenoid. You can break this box up and find the original style cut off solenoid with a single connection. I have posted pictures of this item being broken up in the past on D90 source so you can maybe search for pictures.

So break this box up. Run power to the single lead on the cutt off solenoid. Maybe cut some wiring up from your alarm system you need to trash if you do not have any available. You could jump power from the starter input or alternator output. Then you need to put the transmission in neutral and pull the parking brake. Jump power to the starter input signal to start the truck and push on.

Good Luck
What does vin swap have to do with this guy's request for assistance? Maybe you should share with the Internet how you have a 89 defender?
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  #9  
Old March 11th, 2012, 08:27 PM
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Pendy,
Do you think he is talking about the EGR electronics that sits on top of the injector pump? I tossed mine and can't remember how many wires it had.
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  #10  
Old March 12th, 2012, 06:35 PM
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jim pendleton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MC22958 View Post
Pendy,
Do you think he is talking about the EGR electronics that sits on top of the injector pump? I tossed mine and can't remember how many wires it had.

No there is a black box surrounding the cutt off solenoid. The EGR throttle position sensor is attached to the throttle arm. I think it has three wires also. It is on the more forward part of the Injection Pump in the engine bay.

As far as an 89 defender as my ride. It is true and not misrepresented. In my opinion the poorly executed VIN swap trucks are a ticking time bomb as far as legal to own. I have defended my position on this many time "1of40" So you can go suck an egg or whatever.

I still helped the guy out regardless my opinions. Which is my way. Have you got anything worthwhile to add, or just trolling for drama ?
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  #11  
Old March 12th, 2012, 07:32 PM
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Struck me and others as odd that you would open a post addressed to a guy that sounded like he was in a tough enough spot already with "sounds like a vin swap to me". Especially coming from someone seemingly in the same boat.

Glad to hear the guy got help. Still think if I were him and got your post while in that situation it would have added to the stress I was already under at the time.

Clay
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  #12  
Old March 12th, 2012, 07:41 PM
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Plenty of help reply's BUT no response from "SUNDOGCWOLF".... maybe his Iphone went dead, and he's eating parts of his Rover to survive.
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  #13  
Old March 12th, 2012, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy View Post
No there is a black box surrounding the cutt off solenoid. The EGR throttle position sensor is attached to the throttle arm. I think it has three wires also. It is on the more forward part of the Injection Pump in the engine bay.

As far as an 89 defender as my ride. It is true and not misrepresented. In my opinion the poorly executed VIN swap trucks are a ticking time bomb as far as legal to own. I have defended my position on this many time "1of40" So you can go suck an egg or whatever.

I still helped the guy out regardless my opinions. Which is my way. Have you got anything worthwhile to add, or just trolling for drama ?
Cool, I haven't seen that one then. I have seen plenty of the EGR sensors that sits on top of the injection pump just forward of the boost compensation Diaphragm.
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  #14  
Old March 12th, 2012, 09:00 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I don't have much to add other than that alarm systems (stock or aftermarket) have never played well with the Lukas electrical system. I installed a $500 Viper system and I have never gotten it to work correctly despite hours spent by a technician and myself. Now it doesn't even turn on. I plan to uninstall it at some point. I'm done trying to get it it to work. If anyone has ever successfully used an alarm system on a Defender I'd love to know.

I hope you worked it out.
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  #15  
Old March 12th, 2012, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40
Maybe you should share with the Internet how you have a 89 defender?
You do know that there were defenders imported legally into the US prior to the NAS defenders right?

A few people on this site have them and they are just as legal as a NAS or 25 year old import.
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  #16  
Old March 12th, 2012, 10:29 PM
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jim pendleton
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Clay I have been around this topic for a long time. I am not in the same boat at all. And I have a very good grasp of the facts. His statement
"My Defender is a 1984 110 that was converted professionally in the UK to 300tdi with transmission and drivetrain upgrade. At the same time, a landrovernet security system was installed hat involves a green box behind dash, a black box in battery compartment, a sensor on window, and presumably, door switched. And a black key fob with two buttons."
Does not seem correct to me.

So I questioned it. It has bearing on the diagnosis I would supply for his situation. A truck converted to factory alarm would perhaps have a very different nature to a truck that was really a late 90's vintage with an ID plate moved about. So if someone needs advice maybe I need the correct background to give good advice.

My advise was spot on and would have gotten him headed home if hyena's had not attacked him in MN. Or he is left to eating truck parts to survive after his Ipod died. If you and others are struck odd and really concerned about not adding stress to the poor guys post asking for help, why are you cluttering it up with your off topic trolling? You are drawing more attention to his situation then I am. Stirring the pot, black or not.

Here is a picture I dug up of the black box that covers up the cutt off solenoid on an injection pump. This one is broken up after being removed. The EGR throttle position sensor is to the right of the damaged alarm part. A one lead cutt off solenoid sits under this alarm black box.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
Struck me and others as odd that you would open a post addressed to a guy that sounded like he was in a tough enough spot already with "sounds like a vin swap to me". Especially coming from someone seemingly in the same boat.

Glad to hear the guy got help. Still think if I were him and got your post while in that situation it would have added to the stress I was already under at the time.

Clay
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  #17  
Old April 25th, 2012, 12:43 PM
sundogcwolfe
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Charles R. Wolfe
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Follow up and more questions regarding security system

OK, I am back.... I apologize for lack of response...

Here is what happened. I hot wired the injector pump and rolled started the defender. Drove to minnesota without ever shutting off the engine... Amazing fuel economy at idle by the way.....

NOW when I got home I went to permanent solution... which remains elusive.

First I read the definitive spider bypass article... because all I read was that my spider box was the likely culprit.....
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=86&hl=

That did not work so I order the Spider bypass wiring harness AMR4956 from Rovers North. I was sure that would do the trick... but to no avail.

So now spider is bypassed and I still cannot get power to the fuel pump solenoid or the starter solenoid from the ignition. Can only use truck if I run jumper to injector pump and roll start her.

I am confused as to where to go from here..... I think it has something to do with that green box behind my dash but am not sure.

Any ideas?

Cwolfe

PS my truck is legit 1984. Security system only involves ignigtion. Doors are manual locks Previous owner did wonderful things like put in a 2002 built 300 tdi and the LT230q transfer case and corresponding drivetrain... but she also put in that dang security systme.
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