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  #1  
Old November 29th, 2011, 12:12 PM
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Stereo Install Questions

I am preparing to install a new stereo (aftermarket) in my 97 wagon. I have the appropriate harness adapter, etc. I would like to bypass/remove the factory amp from the system as the new headunit should be sufficient, and wonder if someone can recommend a "clean" way to bridge the inbound and outbound wires (speakers and grounds) that does not involve cutting off the two male plugs that connect to the amp.

I'd like to keep everything reversable, even if I have no intention of adding that amp back into the system. But if the easiest solution is to cut and add new connectors I guess thats fine. Also, let me know if there are compelling reasons to leave the amp in place.

Regarding speakers - I am going to try the stock speakers and wire first. If it sounds like total crap, I'll run new wire. But the speakers sounded fine before the stock stereo gave out.

Also, does anyone know whether the center dash console that currently houses the rear door heat/wipe/wash buttons in a SW will accomodate the new stereo, assumming the buttons and mounting plate are relocated? I cant tell whether that is a seperate part from what RN and RDS offer as a radio housing.

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old November 29th, 2011, 02:18 PM
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Smile

Also, does anyone know whether the center dash console that currently houses the rear door heat/wipe/wash buttons in a SW will accomodate the new stereo, assumming the buttons and mounting plate are relocated? I cant tell whether that is a seperate part from what RN and RDS offer as a radio housing

no not deep enough, i used one from radio shack looks like it was made for it
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  #3  
Old November 29th, 2011, 03:20 PM
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Thanks, Ron. I'll check out that Radio Shack one.
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Old November 29th, 2011, 04:02 PM
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or get the mud uk unit and have all switches and radio in on place
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  #5  
Old November 29th, 2011, 05:04 PM
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Jeff I'll check to see if I have the original housing that came in the 110, it had the radio in it

If I find it , it is yours

but I want a pack of beer for it ...available in Indiana *LMAO*
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Old November 29th, 2011, 05:28 PM
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Thanks, Gustavo. That would be awesome.
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  #7  
Old November 29th, 2011, 07:27 PM
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Becareful, ECR has a page on their site about cutting out the factory amp in a 97 D90. If you cut it out, your code reader OBDII output on the truck will die. Or at least, thats what I read.
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Old November 30th, 2011, 08:36 AM
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Jeff,

Here it is ( needs cleaning but it is as new )

Not sure if you need the harness, but I have a brand new one as well

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Old November 30th, 2011, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McCauley View Post
Becareful, ECR has a page on their site about cutting out the factory amp in a 97 D90. If you cut it out, your code reader OBDII output on the truck will die. Or at least, thats what I read.
The grounds in the amp relate the EFI ECU.
You have to connect all the black wires together when you delete the factory amp otherwise your OBD2 reader will not function. Its simple, just something stereo shops don't know anything about.
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  #10  
Old November 30th, 2011, 12:41 PM
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Thanks, Gustavo. Maybe I can get that from you if we have a HH this month? I have the harness, but thank you for the offer.

I am aware of the ground issue at the amp but thanks for the heads-up. I guess I was looking for a way to bridge the wires that pass through the amp (the speakers and ground) once the amp is removed. I just dont want to cut off the stock plugs if it can be avoided. Not sure if there is a multi-pin male-to-male connector that would work in this case.
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Old November 30th, 2011, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferson View Post
Thanks, Gustavo. Maybe I can get that from you if we have a HH this month? I have the harness, but thank you for the offer.

I am aware of the ground issue at the amp but thanks for the heads-up. I guess I was looking for a way to bridge the wires that pass through the amp (the speakers and ground) once the amp is removed. I just dont want to cut off the stock plugs if it can be avoided. Not sure if there is a multi-pin male-to-male connector that would work in this case.

Jeff, u r welcome

BTW, if we do not have a HH this month , I will see Jason in a week or two, so I will give it to him regardless of HH


Now about that beer from South Bend Indiana *LMAO*
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  #12  
Old November 30th, 2011, 08:57 PM
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Perfect. Thanks Gus. Indiana beer coming your way .
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  #13  
Old November 30th, 2011, 09:46 PM
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Maybe get a plug the same as the amp side, and bridge the wires there? Then you just plug that in to the harness. Or just bridge the pins with individual wires using male or female spade connectors. I'm not sure what the plugs look like, so just guessing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferson View Post
I am aware of the ground issue at the amp but thanks for the heads-up. I guess I was looking for a way to bridge the wires that pass through the amp (the speakers and ground) once the amp is removed. I just dont want to cut off the stock plugs if it can be avoided. Not sure if there is a multi-pin male-to-male connector that would work in this case.
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  #14  
Old November 2nd, 2013, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by ECR View Post
The grounds in the amp relate the EFI ECU.
You have to connect all the black wires together when you delete the factory amp otherwise your OBD2 reader will not function. Its simple, just something stereo shops don't know anything about.
I know this is an old thread, but I'm bypassing the factory amp and just going straight from my new head unit so I want to make sure I do this right - going into the factory amp there is one black wire, coming out there appears to be two - do I join all three together?

Thanks!
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Old November 3rd, 2013, 02:01 PM
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Ok it was late and I didn't have the best light - on looking at it today it appears that there are only two black wires which I assume I need to join together - can I rip everything else out?

I've attached a pic for reference - the plug on the left has 8 wires which appear to be speaker outputs. The other plug on the right has 13 wires which I assume are 8 speaker input, 2 green fused power, 2 black ground and a yellow/purple stripe that is the power on from the head unit. Could someone confirm this is correct and all I need to worry about is joining the two ground wires. Thanks!
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