steering shaft worn - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 20th, 2014, 05:48 PM
whitelandy33
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steering shaft worn

Before I start tearing things apart I figured I would ask....

Appears the steering wheel is slipping. I can turn the wheel and lean over into the engine bay and notice the ujoint slipping over the shaft coming from the steering gear.

I am unable to remove the ujoint to see the condition of the shaft but I am pretty sure the splines are shot. Looks like there is a nut holding the shaft and ujoint together. I would assume the ujoint would need to be replaced also.

To remove the steering gear, I would need to remove 4 bolts that hold it to the frame/side. And remove all lines. (of course take a pic to remember what lines go where)

Can only the steering shaft be replaced or should I just replace the entire steering gear component?

Is there anything else I should replace/freshen while doing this?

I assume last step would be to, flush/bleed the system.

....I think steering gear is the same term as steering box.
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  #2  
Old January 20th, 2014, 05:55 PM
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I'd pull the ujoint and check the splines before ordering parts. You have to completely remove the bolt, because the end of the splined shaft has a depression the bolt sits in, to keep it from coming off.
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Old January 20th, 2014, 05:57 PM
whitelandy33
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but to remove the ujoint I need to loosen the steering box right? not enough room to remove the ujoint.
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  #4  
Old January 20th, 2014, 06:00 PM
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The shaft is in two pieces, so that if you get into an accident it just collapses in on itself instead of killing you. You should be able to get them to move together more, to get the ujoint off the steering box.
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  #5  
Old January 20th, 2014, 06:02 PM
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Brett Fritzler
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I've pulled a D1 steering shaft without removing the steering box. Should be able to loosen each end if the shaft. Slideit one way and drop the other end. Then slide it off. At least I think that's how I did it.
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  #6  
Old January 20th, 2014, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishEH View Post
I've pulled a D1 steering shaft without removing the steering box. Should be able to loosen each end if the shaft. Slideit one way and drop the other end. Then slide it off. At least I think that's how I did it.
It should be even easier on a defender, unless the later ones have D1 style shafts:

Defender:
http://www.lrdirect.com/RTC4738-Stee...-Flexi-Type-9/

Disco:
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-QME500040
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  #7  
Old January 20th, 2014, 06:20 PM
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The guys above are leading you in the right direction. The splines on the steering wheel shaft are quite long for a reason. Completely remove all four bolts on the joints. Some lubricant helps if things are seized up. The whole piece can then be slid up the steering wheel shaft splines far enough to allow the bottom joint to come off the steering box splines. It helps if all the joints can slide on all four splines to give enough maneuverability.
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Old January 20th, 2014, 07:12 PM
whitelandy33
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Was able to remove the shaft. The lower ujoint is stripped 50% at least. Shaft coming out of steering box is worn as expected. Will get pics of both.
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  #9  
Old January 20th, 2014, 07:54 PM
whitelandy33
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what do i do now?
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  #10  
Old January 20th, 2014, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitelandy33 View Post
what do i do now?
All of the splines are there below the bolt, and most above. Personally I'd buy a new joint and run it as is, assuming the box is otherwise good.

If the box leaks, I'd get a cheap used box from a disco (I paid $20 for mine) and use that.

I provide no warranty with this advice and if you kill yourself I won't take care of your dog or kids.
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Old January 20th, 2014, 09:36 PM
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Yeah, I would definitely be tempted to just buy new joints and run them. The steering box is not a cheap item to replace. There is an outfit in the US that seems to do a good job on rebuilds as has been mentioned by several folks on this board. However I don't know whether they get into replacing the shafts. As I recall they are just into replacing the soft bits and setting the box up properly.
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Old January 20th, 2014, 10:09 PM
whitelandy33
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Looks like its $700 for a new one.

What is the disco part number?
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  #13  
Old January 20th, 2014, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitelandy33 View Post
Looks like its $700 for a new one. What is the disco part number?
I assume you're talking about the steering box right?
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  #14  
Old January 20th, 2014, 10:17 PM
whitelandy33
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Right, part number or year model of disco.

There is one on ebay for $545 and its local to me.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATLANTIC-AUT...8d9613&vxp=mtr
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  #15  
Old January 20th, 2014, 10:22 PM
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Any land rover power steering box from a D1, RRC or Defender should work, as long as it's attached with 4 bolts. I guess some of the early RRC must have had a 3? bolt box. I could making stuff up or remembering wrong. But 4 bolt box is what you're looking for.

So 1994-1999 D1 should work. As far as I know.

Drop arm (pitman arm) is different. So boxes that are sold complete won't show as fitting your defender because of the different arm.
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  #16  
Old January 20th, 2014, 10:28 PM
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I don't think you're missing any splines. The input shaft is smooth on the end:



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  #17  
Old January 20th, 2014, 10:29 PM
bigrichmanitoba
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????????
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  #18  
Old January 20th, 2014, 11:11 PM
whitelandy33
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I think I am going to attempt just replacing the $25 ujoint first. I will push or adjust it lower to cover more of the splines.

If it slips again, then I will address the steering box.
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  #19  
Old January 20th, 2014, 11:33 PM
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What u joint? That looks fine. It looks like your bolt came loose. Put the bolt back in (or a new one) and use a nylock and make sure it is fully torqued down. I would clean everything up with a wire brush first.
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