Station Wagon 90 110 Sliding Rear Window Fixing Thread - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 25th, 2008, 12:31 PM
R. Kurk
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Richard Kurk
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Station Wagon 90 110 Sliding Rear Window Fixing Thread

I need to remove and then disassemble the rear sliding windows on my NAS 110 to replace the plastic track that the windows ride on. It appears the entire window can be easily (relatively) removed by taking out the rivets, but how much trouble is it to disassemble the window ‘frame’? I don’t want to get into a situation that requires special tools and or expertise. Have any of you done this before and can you offer any tips, suggestions, or estimates of difficulty.



Thanks.
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  #2  
Old July 25th, 2008, 02:09 PM
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Richard - I took my rear sliding windows apart to replace all the seals, but it was several years ago. The assembly does remove from the truck simply by drilling out the rivets. I believe there were also some rivets that have to be removed to take the frame apart. The window assembly is not difficult to dis-assemble (just keep track of how everything goes together), but I remember fighting with the new seal (felt) since it was a tight fit with the glass. I didn't use any special tools other than a pop rivet gun to replace the frame rivets (you might've read in another thread that I replaced rivets that hold the assembly in the sheetmetal with screws/washers/nuts because I had several rivets pull through the sheetmetal).
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Old July 26th, 2008, 10:21 PM
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Is it possible to replace the felt and plastic track without taking the winow frame apart?
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  #4  
Old July 28th, 2008, 01:18 AM
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Ryan and Ze,

I removed and then disassembled one window yesterday without any significant problems. Because the only part needing replacement was the plastic track that the window slides on I did not completely take everything apart. Once the frame is removed there are four small screws (two on each side) that hold the frame together. Once these are removed the upper and lower sections of the frame separate. I pulled the frame apart just far enough to remove the sliding window section and then replace the plastic track. Ze, I cannot see a way to replace the track without separating the frame and removing the tension of the sliding window against the plastic track. The felt is in OK condition so I did not replace it.

I re-installed the window using OEM LR rivets. However, I could not attach the rivets on the forward side of the frame as the roll bar preventing me from getting the rivet tool in close enough. I have gone ahead and ordered 4 x 14mm stainless button head socket cap screws to fit into these (four) holes. I have ordered enough of these to do the complete other window. The screws will be much easier to remove at later time if the window needs servicing.

It took about 5 hours of work. Most of that cleaning up the window glass, removing the frame gasket and leftover adhesive, and general cleanup with everything removed.

Ryan ... Thanks for the information.
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Old July 28th, 2008, 08:53 PM
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Richard - It's interesting that you weren't able to rivet the front four holes. I checked mine, and I do have enough space for a rivet tool if I needed to do that. Guess that's Land Rover tolerances. I prefer the screws anyway. I used stainless button heads as you did.

Ze - I agree with what Richard said. I don't think it's possible to replace the felt without taking the frames apart. Compared to everything else you've done, it'll be a piece of cake. The glass is just a really tight fit with new felt so you just have to work it in.
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  #6  
Old July 28th, 2008, 10:23 PM
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Thanks guys. I'll take it apart.
Ryan. Next time I'm at Nick's, I'll give you call and see if want to stop by.
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  #7  
Old July 28th, 2008, 10:55 PM
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I used a Snap-on/Bluepoint rivet tool and it is just a little too wide at the head to put the rivet in square with the window. The rivet would have been angled slightly to the rear and therefore not a very firm fitting. Possibly another style rivet tool would avoid this problem. In hindsight the screws seem like a much better approach anyway. I am going to retrofit the screws to the one window that I finished on the weekend and obviously use them on the second window when it comes out.

Thanks.
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Old August 3rd, 2008, 06:01 PM
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Follow up on the button head socket cap screws versus using rivets. A 4 x 12mm is the right size and will work fine for most of the holes (including allowing for a fender washer and nyloc nut). However there was at least one spot where there was a sheet metal tab (adding extra thickness) next to the hole therefore a longer 4 x 14mm screw as used to allow enough length for the washer and nut.

Thanks.
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  #9  
Old August 10th, 2008, 03:03 AM
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Richard. Replaced my track and felt yesterday based on your feedback. It worked great. Thanks.
Tried the 4 x 14mm scews and the head seems too big for the outer seal to fit over. How did you deal with tthis?
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Old August 12th, 2008, 06:50 PM
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Just got back from an extended trip and saw your message about the screws. The ones I used are actually slightly smaller (the head) then the LR (official) rivet. I got them them through McMaster-Carr and the part number is 92095A193 (4x14). If you need more info. let me know.

Thanks.
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  #11  
Old August 12th, 2008, 07:33 PM
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Are the newer double sliding type a better option? I hate the way my older ones leak and rattle
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  #12  
Old August 13th, 2008, 02:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R. Kurk
Just got back from an extended trip and saw your message about the screws. The ones I used are actually slightly smaller (the head) then the LR (official) rivet. I got them them through McMaster-Carr and the part number is 92095A193 (4x14). If you need more info. let me know.

Thanks.

I'll try those. thanks.
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  #13  
Old November 7th, 2009, 12:10 PM
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I am about to tackle the job of replacing the track and felt. I have a couple questions. Is there just one track per side that you need to replace? And is there just one piece of felt per side?

I have never removed or placed rivets before. Rovers North sold the OEM rivets for $1.00 per and you need 24 per side. Seems like a lot of money to spend on rivets. Is there a cheaper place to get the same rivets?

Also, what tool do people recommend to place the rivets? I have never placed them, what is the process?
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  #14  
Old November 7th, 2009, 12:51 PM
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For the side window you can just use regular pop rivets in whatever size fits the hole, but keep in mind they come in several lengths to allow for different thicknesses of material. A box from Lowes combined with a 20-dollar pop-riveter hand tool will be fine. They're all covered by the rubber strip anyway.
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  #15  
Old November 26th, 2009, 01:10 AM
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Do you have to remove the rivets even if you just want to remove just one of the glass panels?

Does anyone have a good diagram or photos of this? I have several manuals, none of which illustrate the disassembly of the sliding glass windows very well.
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  #16  
Old November 26th, 2009, 03:40 PM
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Crickets.

I assume the whole assembly has to come out in order to remove the glass, I'm just trying to get it verified before I go at it. If anyone has a good exploded view or instructions that would be great. The parts catalogue only shows the parts, not necessarily in what order they go together.

gobble gobble.
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Old November 26th, 2009, 04:15 PM
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Its gotta come out, so go ahead and start drilling. I'll probably get to this project this weekend so I can take some pix while I do it.
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  #18  
Old November 26th, 2009, 04:34 PM
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rear sliders

Anyone out there have a good source for the seals and tracks for these windows, mine rattle like crazy and I'd like to have all the parts ready when I do them.
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  #19  
Old November 26th, 2009, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Its gotta come out, so go ahead and start drilling. I'll probably get to this project this weekend so I can take some pix while I do it.
Thanks Jim!
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  #20  
Old November 29th, 2009, 09:55 AM
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OK, once you get over the fact that you have to drill out all those rivets, this is a really easy job. Some parts are a little fiddly, but its manageable unless you are all thumbs.

First, disapoint your cat by taking his favorite blanket to lay your project out on...

The window consists of two "c" shaped halves which screw together at each end. I only opened up the front section since I was just replacing the felts. I wanted the back to stay in place as much as possible. The screws on mine really wanted to strip out, so be careful.

There is also a screw top and bottom at the center post. I just took out the top.

There is a rubber fill piece that crosses the join, I pulled this all out the first time, but you can just pull it back enough to expose the joint.

The rear glass sits in a rubber channel which might pop out and can be a pain to get back in. Some windex will make it much easier. The windex also helps get the aforementioned rubber fill piece back in.

The felt just goes in by folding it and pressing it into the channel.

That's about all there is to it, kind of an annoying job, but it doesn't have to be done too often, and makes such a big difference.
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