Station Wagon 90 110 Sliding Rear Window Fixing Thread - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old November 30th, 2009, 12:17 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Thanks Jim.

This is really helpful.
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  #22  
Old December 1st, 2009, 11:36 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Jim,

Any special trick to removing the rubber gasket around the exterior of the windows?
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  #23  
Old December 1st, 2009, 12:50 PM
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Jim Cheney
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The one that hides the rivets? The trick is to grab and pull. Putting it back is where the problem is, but again, no special trick, just windex and dexterity.
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  #24  
Old December 7th, 2009, 08:56 AM
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Jason England
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I'm putting together a Christmas gift list for my 90 and need to do the felts ... does anyone have part numbers?

My windows rattle but seem to slide ok?

should I do more than felts?
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  #25  
Old December 7th, 2009, 09:22 AM
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Felts should be OK. I just ordered some from LRseries.com, the number wasn't quite right because they were too short. They were close enough, so I used them, but you'll want to figure out the correct number. It might be MUC3096, but that might be too short also. Not sure.
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  #26  
Old December 9th, 2009, 12:23 PM
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barry f
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rear sliding window 110

Why the F is one of my rear sliding windows rattling when I drive? It is closed and doesnt move when I touch it but when I get up to speed it sounds like crap.
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  #27  
Old December 9th, 2009, 12:37 PM
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Because the felts are worn out or missing.
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  #28  
Old December 9th, 2009, 12:43 PM
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can I get them easily. hate is growing
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  #29  
Old December 9th, 2009, 12:52 PM
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I rolled up a little ball of electrical tape and slit it between the windows, it helped a lot.
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  #30  
Old December 9th, 2009, 12:59 PM
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not a terrible idea. I guess I can't open it then. What about using Hay?
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  #31  
Old December 9th, 2009, 01:32 PM
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I think between this and that spider that kept making its webs all over the 110, it's time to just give up and sell it.
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  #32  
Old December 9th, 2009, 01:36 PM
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you are right. let the next owner deal with the rattle
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  #33  
Old December 9th, 2009, 05:02 PM
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Barry, the search function can be used for terms other than "boost wheels"
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  #34  
Old December 9th, 2009, 05:11 PM
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Why search when I can start a new exact same thread

Follow-up Post:

I clicked your link and nothing came up
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  #35  
Old December 9th, 2009, 05:15 PM
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That's because I was busy merging this thread with the old one.
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  #36  
Old December 9th, 2009, 05:20 PM
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Daniel Marcello
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woldd90
I rolled up a little ball of electrical tape and slit it between the windows, it helped a lot.
This is what I do too. fold electrical tape over 3-4 time to make it about 1/4 inch long. then fold it in half 1/8 and use a flat head screw driver and stick it up between the windows.

or after doing some electrical work, take those little 10-12 gauge pieces you snipped off and stick those in there.
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  #37  
Old December 9th, 2009, 05:23 PM
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yeah no way i want to drill the rivets out for the felt. Electrical tape and horse hair it is
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  #38  
Old December 9th, 2009, 05:29 PM
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mark kellgren
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So who's got the part #s for the felt and track?
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  #39  
Old December 11th, 2009, 07:04 PM
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I used thin strips of black foamcore doubled up between the glass on the outside like a shim.
Can be removed easily to open windows when needed.
(I have sliding windows on my fiberglass hardtop)
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  #40  
Old January 30th, 2013, 09:58 PM
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sliding window re-fitting

I'm attempting to re-install my left rear sliding window after installing a Garrison Outfitters window rubber kit. When it came out I sort of had to pry it, but just by hand. Now that I'm trying to get it back in, it doesn't look anywhere close to fitting. With the bottom part in, it looks like I need another 2mm of clearance to get it to fit.

ANyone deal with something like this? Any advice? I'm baffled.

------ Follow up post added January 30th, 2013 09:59 PM ------

(
I'm aware that I'm adding to an old-ass thread)
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