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  #1  
Old October 5th, 2011, 01:34 PM
MeanGreen
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Taylor Bartlett
1985 90
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Starting / Rough Idle Problems 1985 V8

Hello All,

I recently purchased and shipped from England to the US a 1985 90 with a low compression V8 running on twin Stromberg CD175s and LT85 5 speed box, engine number 21Gxxxx (the stock engine). When I test drove it it idled great and ran smoothly.

Upon arrival in the US it started ok but was a little slow in starting. I then drove it 90 miles without any problems at idle. Now I am having trouble starting it and keeping it running at idle. I have played around with the manual choke but it only seems to make the problem worse. The weather has become colder here but I find it hard to believe a difference of only a few degrees would cause such drastic problems. Could it be the fuel difference from UK to US?

Does anyone have any experience with this engine? Any suggestions?

I am located in Birmingham, Alabama and would love to hear anyone's suggestion on a good mechanic.

Thanks,
Taylor
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  #2  
Old October 5th, 2011, 01:44 PM
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Bill Adams
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Got oil in the pots? I always used ATF.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
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  #3  
Old October 5th, 2011, 01:55 PM
MeanGreen
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Taylor Bartlett
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Got oil in the pots? I always used ATF.
Good thinking. I am very new to the D 90 so I appreciate your input. How much should there be?
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  #4  
Old October 5th, 2011, 02:03 PM
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Bill Adams
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeanGreen View Post
Good thinking. I am very new to the D 90 so I appreciate your input. How much should there be?
I just filled them and put the piston back in. Excess will goosh out.
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #5  
Old October 6th, 2011, 12:34 AM
MeanGreen
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Taylor Bartlett
1985 90
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Update:

So I added oil to no avail. After trouble shooting other various items, I began to wonder about my fuel pump. Is this pump supposed to continuously pump making the quick and loud clicking noise when the key is to the on position? Some older cars that I have fiddled with only pump until the carburetor was full.

I can smell a hint of unburnt fuel when I try to start it. The plugs are moist with gas but not dripping.

Any other suggestions?
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  #6  
Old October 6th, 2011, 12:41 PM
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Mike Coleman
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Hi Taylor,

Yes, the pump will run continuously once you've turned the key, and on my '83, the Genuine pump makes a fairly loud clicking sound as well. I don't suspect your pump is the issue.

Given that the truck ran fine prior to coming over on the boat, and that it also ran fine for a bit once it got here, I don't suspect that you have a major adjustment problem. For example, points and such don't "un-adjust" themselves while sitting in your garage overnight. I'd check your fuel filter(s) first for sediment in the fuel that might have been sloshing around in the tank on the way over the pond.

In colder weather, you'll need a fair amount of choke to start the engine, and it will chug-chug along at first. I live in Maine, so my definition of cold and yours are probably slightly different. As it warms up and you reduce the choke, it should smooth out. With my truck, it doesn't idle super smooth until the engine is very warm.

Check the throttle linkage as well, and give all the moving parts a shot of dry lube, just to make sure nothing is sticking. I've had that problem with my Series truck in the past, so make sure the linkage is moving freely.

Hopefully something here will help. I've only owned two carb-fed trucks in my life, so I'm not a mine of knowledge with these things, but I've been slowly learning.

Cheers,

Mike
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  #7  
Old October 6th, 2011, 05:46 PM
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Andy
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Taylor,
Oddly enough, I had the exact same problem about a year ago with my truck. It's an 84 with a 3.5L V-8. I had the carbs exstinsively cleaned by a land rover mechanic when I first returned to the states which helped some. However, it still idled quite low. That was in Arkansas at about 500 feet above sea level. However, once I moved to New Mexico at an elevation of over 4,000ft, the truck idle's consistently at 800 RPM except maybe in the winter on extremely cold days until the engine is nice and warm. That leads me to believe it might have had something to do with the mixture which you might want to check. As I understand though, its not entirely simple to adjust the carbs. I don't know much but just relaying my similar experience....
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  #8  
Old October 7th, 2011, 01:58 PM
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Taylor Bartlett
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Thanks to all of you for the help. Still no luck. I am worried that the ignition is not sparking as it has not even attempted to start the last few times. Any idea on how to check that the ignition is firing properly? I tried the old screwdriver and spark plug wire trick but no spark.
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  #9  
Old October 18th, 2011, 11:55 PM
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Taylor Bartlett
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Update

So after spending some money and having the local land rover mechanic investigate, the rotor button was broken and therefore the engine was not getting a proper spark. It starts and idles great now. I dont even need the choke which I suppose means it is running too rich?

Now on to the new problem: It will do fine running around town and low to mid throttle but when I open up the throttle the engines begins to lug or misfire. I immediately smell unburnt gas. As soon as I go back to mid throttle, it returns to running normally. My mechanic tells me that it is a carburetor problem and that they need a complete rebuild.

Does anyone have any suggestions other than a complete rebuild?

Thanks to everyone who posted replies earlier.
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  #10  
Old October 19th, 2011, 04:29 AM
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Jamie Austin
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Does it have points or electronic ignition? misfiring at high revs = points gap too wide


also, I can't remember if it's just the old series 3 109" V8 that had them, or the early 90/110's too, but (certainly the series 3 V8) they had a restrictor behind the carbs, in the inlet manifold, that droppped the power right back (series V8s were about 91bhp, early 90's like yours about 114bhp).

Remove these restrictors and a re-tune and you'll gain a fair bit more power. Like i say, yours may not have them, but worth a look.
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  #11  
Old October 24th, 2011, 10:25 PM
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Taylor Bartlett
1985 90
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Finally Fixed

So I did a complete inspection of the V8. I took off the PCV valves to find that they were full of black oily crud. I took the air hose and blew them clean. Then I reinstalled them and found another hose with some type of filter between the carbs and the distributor. The tube connecting the filter to the distributor was dry rotted and split. I fixed that and amazing, the truck ran better than ever. No carb work at all.

Just thought someone out there may have the same issue and I would give them something to look at.

Does anyone know where to get parts (particularly the PCV valve) for my 1985 V8?
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  #12  
Old October 25th, 2011, 01:35 AM
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Mike Coleman
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Good to hear that you're back up and running! Glad both of the issues were small items that were easy to fix.

Is this the valve you're looking for?

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product...h=valve&page=9

Both LRSeries and BritcarUK have a good selection of parts for the early trucks. Trevor at Rovahfarm here in the States also carries parts for the dual carb trucks as well. I had him source quite a few items that I couldn't find elsewhere.

If you don't already have it, make sure you get the 1983 to '86 parts catalog, part # RTC9863. It's a must have book to figure out the correct parts for your truck.

Mike
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  #13  
Old October 25th, 2011, 08:24 AM
MeanGreen
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Taylor Bartlett
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That is the valve that is between the carbs and the distributor. Its not the two that were clogged but I will order a replacement of this one anyways. Thanks for the help. I need to order that parts manual. Will do it today.

------ Follow up post added October 25th, 2011 07:28 AM ------

I found that catalog at Amazon but its for a 110. I assume it would cover all the parts on a 90 plus the extras on the 110?

http://www.amazon.com/Rover-Parts-Ca.../dp/1855202883
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  #14  
Old October 25th, 2011, 10:03 AM
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Bill Adams
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Save yer dough and get the edelbrock carb and intake. That SU stuff is overly complex in both plumbing and linkage and isn't doing you any favors at this point in its career. And pop in a stage 2 cam at the same time....HELLO!
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1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
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  #15  
Old October 25th, 2011, 04:10 PM
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J. Michael McCaig
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I second that vote on the edelbrock card (after all the engine was originally designed for that kind of carb). Plenty of info on the net on how to set it up for offroad too. A 60's Buick 215 4bbl intake manifold will bolt right up. I am extremely happy with my similar set up.
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  #16  
Old October 25th, 2011, 05:15 PM
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Brett
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I switched out my carb to an edge rock and have had no issues since the switch.

------ Follow up post added October 25th, 2011 04:16 PM ------

Meant to type edelbrock
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  #17  
Old October 25th, 2011, 05:33 PM
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Mike Coleman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeanGreen View Post
That is the valve that is between the carbs and the distributor. Its not the two that were clogged ......
Ahh, this is probably what you're after. Flame traps....

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product...=603330&page=1

Rovahfarm has these too.


Quote:
I found that catalog at Amazon but its for a 110. I assume it would cover all the parts on a 90 plus the extras on the 110?
Doh! Mine's a 110, so my brain defaulted to the 110 parts manual. The manual for the '84 through '86 90's is RTC9868. The only place I've found that actually list the hard copy manual in stock is Craddock's. Alternatively, you could just get the DVD that has all the early 90/110 stuff on it:

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-1...0-110-127.aspx

Mike
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