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  #41  
Old June 11th, 2015, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Dude I'd offered to help! You could have used either my expertise (ask Jymmiejamz) or one of my tows for free.

I know thanks .. they guy who has the shop is the owner of the building that lets me park my truck and bikes there for free .. So I kind of thought its a cheap thank you to use his mechanic. Besides gonna have his body guy fix the bloody rust spots on roof/body seam, and grind and re-weld rusted bumper, and shoddy roof rack, and pop a new powder coat on them. Needed to get the truck over there running or not.


Now if only I can figure out how to get rid of engine whine in the stereo (after I installed dual battery & dual batter kit Web), and get the accessory tank install, I'll be set for the summer
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  #42  
Old June 11th, 2015, 01:24 PM
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Whats so bizarre is that mine continues to do the same thing. yet a week ago, after getting a new starter, it started perfectly. Today nothing except fuel pump priming, spark which should be enough to get it going. Weather is totally dry.

Today we went through all the wiring, checking for damage, checking the grounds, checking the spark, changing the coil rotor and cap (done several times before) even though everything looked good. Amplifier has been replaced (again) and is remote mounted. Connections at ECU are good and ECU wiring is good.

Even though we can smell gas after trying to start it, next stop is to pull the injectors and rail for testing. There was always a hint of misfiring before.

I did find this link in another thread on TPS issues which I just throw into the mix. We repaired a bad wire on mine some time back. http://p38arover.com/rover/p38a/Engi...UX_Systems.pdf Of course being a 95 D1 engine it has the unobtanium TPS

Overall the erratic nature of the fault is what is so frustrating. We seem to be chasing ghosts.
Feeling stumped. Perhaps I should have made this a tdi rather than a V8.
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  #43  
Old June 11th, 2015, 04:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
Whats so bizarre is that mine continues to do the same thing. yet a week ago, after getting a new starter, it started perfectly. Today nothing except fuel pump priming, spark which should be enough to get it going. Weather is totally dry. Today we went through all the wiring, checking for damage, checking the grounds, checking the spark, changing the coil rotor and cap (done several times before) even though everything looked good. Amplifier has been replaced (again) and is remote mounted. Connections at ECU are good and ECU wiring is good. Even though we can smell gas after trying to start it, next stop is to pull the injectors and rail for testing. There was always a hint of misfiring before. I did find this link in another thread on TPS issues which I just throw into the mix. We repaired a bad wire on mine some time back. http://p38arover.com/rover/p38a/Engi...UX_Systems.pdf Of course being a 95 D1 engine it has the unobtanium TPS Overall the erratic nature of the fault is what is so frustrating. We seem to be chasing ghosts. Feeling stumped. Perhaps I should have made this a tdi rather than a V8.

How dis you test the ECU wiring?


Did you check for pulsing on the coil to ECU white wire. Without that the ECU won't fire the injectors.

The other think could be the AICV being stuck in the wrong position. When you turn off the ignition you should hear it buzz as it resets.
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  #44  
Old June 11th, 2015, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
How dis you test the ECU wiring? Did you check for pulsing on the coil to ECU white wire. Without that the ECU won't fire the injectors. The other think could be the AICV being stuck in the wrong position. When you turn off the ignition you should hear it buzz as it resets.
AICV air control valve?
Yes the white wire pulses well.
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  #45  
Old June 11th, 2015, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Somtimes called the idle air bypass, or the stepper motor. It on the left rear of the plenum. -Jeff
Or more commonly IACV
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  #46  
Old June 15th, 2015, 07:49 PM
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Sometimes it's worth going back over old grounds (!).
This will wait for tomorrow but corrosion is always unwelcome.
Hoping its this simple.
For now let's charge the battery and see what happens in the morning.
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #47  
Old June 17th, 2015, 10:50 AM
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Swapped in another harness and nada. It's so odd it starts some days not others. Time to drain fuel and get fresh gas....
It's not odd, it's frustrating as all hell.
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #48  
Old June 17th, 2015, 02:28 PM
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When all else fails...swap out the new part in the ignition system. The one I installed last year with new wires etc.
Different distributor cap and it fires up
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #49  
Old June 17th, 2015, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
When all else fails...swap out the new part in the ignition system. The one I installed last year with new wires etc. Different distributor cap and it fires up
When all else fails buy a cheap oscilloscope.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #50  
Old June 18th, 2015, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
When all else fails buy a cheap oscilloscope.
It was when we plugged in the computer and watched its read outs as we tried to start it that we could see that everything was being sent crazy by stray volts....
Memo to self only use GENUINE parts for the ignition system.

Now why this fault only started to show up at WR is beyond me....
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  #51  
Old June 18th, 2015, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
When all else fails...swap out the new part in the ignition system. The one I installed last year with new wires etc.
Different distributor cap and it fires up
those cheap plastic blue distributor caps are complete crap. Always go with Lucas cap and rotor.
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  #52  
Old July 1st, 2015, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
those cheap plastic blue distributor caps are complete crap. Always go with Lucas cap and rotor.
Funny thing about that is the one I swapped out was black the swapped in part is blue and it's starting on the button now.

The old one had evidence of arcing. So I'm wondering if my problem is this distributor itself has worn to the point that it's no longer rotation accurately.
If the no start returns and the new cap and rotor show arcing I'll be looking at a new distributor.

Recommendations for the new unit welcome.
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #53  
Old July 1st, 2015, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
Funny thing about that is the one I swapped out was black the swapped in part is blue and it's starting on the button now. The old one had evidence of arcing. So I'm wondering if my problem is this distributor itself has worn to the point that it's no longer rotation accurately. If the no start returns and the new cap and rotor show arcing I'll be looking at a new distributor. Recommendations for the new unit welcome.
Buy an oscilloscope first. $150 on Craigslist and it will diagnose faulty spark issues.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #54  
Old July 3rd, 2015, 07:44 AM
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i'm clueless about those, but plan on waiting and driving to see if the issue is reoccurring or not.
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  #55  
Old July 3rd, 2015, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
i'm clueless about those, but plan on waiting and driving to see if the issue is reoccurring or not.
You clip on a few wires and then compare at terms to what is in the book ... It basically says ... If the pattern on the screen looks like this ... Then check this.

I was advised to try a new genuine dizzy by someone I trust with diagnosis. I wanted to be sure that would solve the problem. I invested $150 in an old snap on oscilloscope and discovered a broken ignition lead.

I was also able to time the engine very accurately and now get great gas mileage ... Seeing nearly 18mpg on a run from NY to virginia.

It's a small price to pay for a home mechanic to get some real insight to the ignition system rather
than trying to guess and replacing random parts until it the problem goes away.
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Quote:
Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #56  
Old July 5th, 2015, 05:13 PM
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Well kids. In the spirit of not starting a new thread, but in fear of highjacking a thread, I wanted to respond to my earlier post about all this. I hit the starter with a hammer. Nothing. Tried to jump it. Nada. I then pulled apart my dash and realized the key tumbler thingamahopper was failing. Squeezed it with one hand, started with the other and it cranked right up. Winner winner chicken dinner.
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  #57  
Old November 14th, 2015, 12:51 PM
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Drove my truck nearly 400 miles over two days a week ago. It was rainy for the last day, i used 4. Wheel drive to get out of a stream restoration site. The truck was parked over the weekend, i wash all the mud out sunday . try to start it after giving it a bath and nothing . Ive been down this road before so i check to see if the coil got wet, it was dry as a bone . Next stop fuel pump relays, no dice fuel pump is pumping. I got a new coil and ignition module, i figure they are 25 years and probably need replacing .

I currently have no spark FROM the coil to the distributor . Ive checked and double checked everything with the other rover . the coil is getting power but not "firing" Im fortunate it died in my driveway buy really getting frustrated tht it wont start .
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  #58  
Old November 14th, 2015, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
Drove my truck nearly 400 miles over two days a week ago. It was rainy for the last day, i used 4. Wheel drive to get out of a stream restoration site. The truck was parked over the weekend, i wash all the mud out sunday . try to start it after giving it a bath and nothing . Ive been down this road before so i check to see if the coil got wet, it was dry as a bone . Next stop fuel pump relays, no dice fuel pump is pumping. I got a new coil and ignition module, i figure they are 25 years and probably need replacing .I currently have no spark to the coil . Ive checked and double checked everything with the other rover . Im fortunate it died in my driveway buy really getting frustrated that it wont start .
Something doesn't sound right.

No spark at the coil? Have you dislodged the wire to the back of the alternator?
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #59  
Old November 14th, 2015, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Something doesn't sound right.

No spark at the coil? Have you dislodged the wire to the back of the alternator?
Sorry, coil to distributor. Lots of threads suggesting the ignition switch failing and interrupting power to the coil, test light shows power to both sides when ignition is switched on. I've swapped ecus etc. I've run out of parts to change
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  #60  
Old November 14th, 2015, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
Sorry, coil to distributor. Lots of threads suggesting the ignition switch failing and interrupting power to the coil, test light shows power to both sides when ignition is switched on. I've swapped ecus etc. I've run out of parts to change
I'll dig out the test procedure but have you checked the rollover switch. Someone had one that filled with water because the cap was loose and would work when the truck was dry.

Rollover kills the ignition ...
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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