starter solenoid assembly (84 110 3.5L V8) - Page 2 - Defender Source
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  #21  
Old November 13th, 2007, 11:41 PM
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jim pendleton
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Points and condensor condition?

Doesn't the starter have a wire coming out of it that bypasses the ballast resistor for startup voltage to the coil. Could you have switched that up?

Disconect the Hot wire from the ignition switch to the coil. With the key on it should read 9volts. While cranking it should read 12volts. This is from memory so anyone correct me if I am wrong. When connected to the coil it draws power so you cannot get a good reading. Make sense?

The glass fuses can cause you problems as well. As well as the bullet connectors between the ignition switch and everthing connected to it.

J
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  #22  
Old November 14th, 2007, 12:55 AM
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"Can anyone think of a reason my change could have caused a problem with the coil operation?"

You "fixed" things that were not "broken" without killing a chicken.

Do you have the original shop manual for her? I am pretty sure I found a PDF of it online somewhere free (which if you link he it does not show up) or you can buy the CD for $25. Without the wiring diagram, you are really asking for serious issues.

The wire from the coil (white/purple) I show going to the ballast resistor and then to the starter solenoid unless it has an ignition module (does she? I don't thinks she does.) and then it is different.

Get the manual and print out the two pages of the wiring diagram and keep it in the truck with the volt meter ($10 at wal-mart for a cheap one).

Ron
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  #23  
Old November 14th, 2007, 09:50 AM
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Loic Fabro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Get the manual and print out the two pages of the wiring diagram and keep it in the truck with the volt meter ($10 at wal-mart for a cheap one).
He has a manual and a voltmeter (well.... a multi-meter without battery). But Charles is still in the 21st century while Janey is still in the 20th century. Janey does not have an onboard computer/GPS/video-playing device and even with the nice CD (DVD?) burnt in the glove box, this does not help..... I keep a copy of the entire WSM (well.... the 110 WSM( in the back of the D which is over 10 years younger than Janey. Charles is just plain too optimistic (as any new LR owner is/should be ;-) )!
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  #24  
Old November 15th, 2007, 10:27 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Hey, I did have my entire set of hand tools on board and fluids for everything I'll see about printing out the manual and keep it with me, but doubt it would have helped in this case. But Ron, the one I have is a one page wiring diagram - hope It's right.

And, the battery was dying on my multi-meter which was preventing me doing some of my tests (thanks Loic for the remote assistance).

I was late for a business appointment so had to abandon her and come back for it later. I replaced the coil and then had it towed. I've been too damn busy to do any further diagnosing, but I will this weekend.

Ron, not charging is broken in my book. Next time I'll get fresh chicken, not frozen The wire I changed was an additional connection to the ballast resistor, not the white/purple one.

Jim, I'll do those tests and let you know. I think the points are ok. BTW, I did the radiator swap on the D90 last weekend, but didn't get the old one shipped back yet - will do so this weekend.

charles
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  #25  
Old November 15th, 2007, 11:21 PM
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I am sure it was charging when the charge circuit was hooked up through the oil pressure light. Otherwise it would not have made it across the country twice, from New Hampshire to Philly, and from Philly to DC.

In my think like Ron's Redneck Rover Repair way, I would guess that there is something wrong with the ballast or the wires in that circuit. Otherwise it would not have been necessary for the previous owner to hook up the circuit through the oil light.
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  #26  
Old November 16th, 2007, 10:30 AM
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jim pendleton
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My recomendation wouuld be to make a new wiring harness for the ignition and charging circuit. Take less time in the long run. Go right to the ignition switch and charging light.
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  #27  
Old November 17th, 2007, 10:03 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Once I had time to look at her (and had an assistant I could have come out and turn the key every now and then), I could tell I did have spark (at least as good as what I had the day I drove her home). Might have had it all along - I clearly am not good at testing for spark single handedly

Anyway, still wary, as I knew I had fuel too (checked this roadside too) I tried to do a few tests suggested to confirm things were as they should be. In my case I get about 12v at the hot wire to the coil and drops to about 10v when starting. I believe the ballast resister is supposed to keep the voltage to the coil constant so it's the same when starting and running, but right now I am not too concerned about this. I also did some tests on my old coil since I have a fresh battery in my multi-meter. It has resistance between the primary positive and negative terminals, but infinite resistance betwen each of those and the coil terminal. Not sure what to think about that until I do the same test on my new one.

Not sure what to do, I did a few things like clean the little blowback filters or whatever they are caled, checked the air filter, topped off the oil in the carb dampers. I pulled the plugs and cleaned them and set the gap properly, partly because I hoped it would help, and also to buy me time to think They were all set to something like .25 and the manual recommends .28 to .33 so I went with .30. They appeared to show sings of flooding which obviously means it's a spark issue. Tried to start it after that but no luck. Intermittently it would act like it wanted to turn over but for the most part turned over fast like there was no spark.

Anyway, at this point I clean the distributor points again to be sure, and they looked fine, I figured maybe since I had been driving for about 2 hours in the rain the morning it broke down, maybe there was moisture in the distributor so I'd leave it open overnight (even though it looked dry). I think while attempting to detect moisture, I happened to notice the little 8mm nut inside the distributor that holds down the red and black wire was finger loose, and the wires moved. So I tightened it up and after a few cranks she started up. I took her for a test drive and she ran well (maybe me but seemed to run better than before). I fired her up this morning and it seems to start better when cold too. Will take her for a drive to pick up my oil lines for the ninety, and drop my radiator core in the mail for Jim too.

Well, lets just chalk this up as me "fixing" more things that are not broken. At least until I install the rooftop chicken coup to have live chickens handy on the road.

charles
p.s. Thanks to everyone for the advise on the issue, and the many others I have asked about. You guys are awesome.
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  #28  
Old November 17th, 2007, 12:20 PM
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jim pendleton
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Janey Lives!

Charles overcomes!
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