Starter clicking - and new starter installed, grounds cleaned, relay swapped. - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 14th, 2016, 03:06 PM
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Unhappy Starter clicking - and new starter installed, grounds cleaned, relay swapped.

I am stumped.
My 1999 TD5 starter clicks and does not turn over about 1 in 5 times I go to start it (and will then take 20+ key turns/clicks to turn over and start).
I installed a new solenoid & starter unit, I sanded all the grounds, battery leads and checked the wires. Also switched out the relay in the fuse box. Battery is new and strong.

Any ideas what's going on? Thanks
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  #2  
Old October 14th, 2016, 03:23 PM
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Ignition Switch.
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  #3  
Old October 14th, 2016, 03:37 PM
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You think the ignition would do that? The glow plugs work well, and the starter does click every time you turn the key (I would assume there would be no click if it was the ignition...). It is an idea though.
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  #4  
Old October 14th, 2016, 04:07 PM
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Yep, its a bunk switch. Been there.
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  #5  
Old October 14th, 2016, 05:44 PM
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I also had this problem, but it was the wiring between the relay and the solenoid. Once I tore apart the fuse box it was obvious it was corroded and had been sparking. Ran a new line directly from the load terminal of the starter relay to the solenoid, and it's been good as gold ever since.
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  #6  
Old October 14th, 2016, 07:24 PM
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Jason Lavender
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It's easy enough to test (bypass) said ignition switch....shoot me an email for "specific" details/instructions .
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  #7  
Old November 10th, 2016, 05:51 PM
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Ignition replaced. Worked only half the time still.
I am now about to board a ferry... and the starter is just clicking. Uh oh.
there is also a visible s park inside the starter relay on the off turn. But Maybe that's normal.

Advise any solutions, tips or tricks?
I can check the wire of the load terminal of the starter relay to the solenoid. (Is that loud click outside not the solinoid working though?)

I wonder why it's not getting power
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  #8  
Old November 10th, 2016, 06:12 PM
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Wiring between the Relay and the Solenoid.... this is exactly what I dealt with.
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  #9  
Old November 10th, 2016, 06:23 PM
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TD5 starter has the solenoid built into the starter.
The external relay is probably bad.
You can test it by jumping power from the main cable on the starter to the solenoid engagement spade with a wire or screwdriver to see if it engages... make sure the igsw is on and the transmission in neutral before you jump the electrics to start it.
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  #10  
Old November 12th, 2016, 01:30 PM
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Two quick questions. Where is the ignition grind? (Maybe that's bad) and where is this "external relay"?

Thank you guys
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  #11  
Old November 12th, 2016, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestCoastRover View Post
Two quick questions. Where is the ignition grind? (Maybe that's bad) and where is this "external relay"?

Thank you guys
Ignition ground? The starter grounds through its body to the clutch housing. Do you mean the ignition switch? It does not ground. It is switching the power side of the circuit.

The starter relay should be with the other relays below the fuse panel.
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  #12  
Old November 13th, 2016, 05:27 PM
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Doing some tracing on my landy in preparation for the installation of some accessories.

I decided to identify the wires on the ignition switch, I was surprised to find fairly high resistance between the ignition switch terminals.

I will maybe drill out the shear bolt heads and do a service job on the switch. I also found something weird, when I pull my key out of the ignition, I can hear the steering lock fly, but my steering wont lock.

I am eager to investigate that, also a safety concern.

I found a great write up from another site about servicing the switch, which directly relates to my ignition switch, color codes and all.

I will be installing relays and push button start.

Defender Defender ignition switch repair / re-assembly
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  #13  
Old November 14th, 2016, 04:25 PM
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Today I took out my ignition switch and gave it a service. It was working well before, but after doing some testing for wire identification, I noticed that I had high resistance right through the switch.

I drilled and extracted the two shear bolts and replace them with grade 8.8 stainless steel bolts using a bit of blue locktite on them too.

If you are thinking of doing this for just the electrical contacts, you do not need to remove the 2 small grub screws, just carefully open the 3 crimps which holds down the plastic component with the spade terminals and internal contacts.

After giving the unit a complete mechanical and electric clean and service, it works like a charm, feels smooth and 0 electrical resistance.

I used graphite grease and 3 in 1 oil, it feels butter smooth and my steering lock works too.
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  #14  
Old November 14th, 2016, 05:27 PM
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The armature is grounded through (only) two bolts on the back of the starter... Make sure that these two bolts are tight... If they're not tight, you will get the symptoms you described.

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  #15  
Old November 17th, 2016, 01:22 PM
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Get this,
I was stumped. And took it into the shop.
They removed My Brand new starter and solenoid unit that was ordered from the uK.
The "brand new" solenoid was all corroded inside. What are the chances? I installed the new unit for that very reason, "the clicking".

Grrrrrrrrr

Thanks for all the tips guys, I don't think we could have figured that out easily.
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  #16  
Old November 22nd, 2016, 06:56 PM
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Unhappy

UPDATE - Not fixed.

As you know, the old starter was clicking every few starts.
So I installed a new solenoid and starter unit (not the best brand tho). Same day it clicked. Few days later, the shop opened it up to find the NEW solenoid was melted/corroded, so it was replaced. Starter still clicked.
We sent the "new motor" in to get rebuilt. Replaced the main lead wire as there was some bad connections.
What do you know, after 20 good starts, start # 21... The damn starter clicked!

There is no water in the cylinders, and the compression is good. Ignition is new and Relay is new.

I know the one thing I reconnected to the battery a few weeks ago was the rear winch, this the previous owner had disconnected... related? We also have lots of rats that love to chew wires on the Island here. "navydevildoc" - I will replace the wire from the relay to the solenoid incase there is rodent damage.


Absolutely stumped here. If you don't have any ideas, I understand....
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  #17  
Old November 22nd, 2016, 08:59 PM
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bad ground to/from the starter. really bad ground.

try running a ground wire directly from the block to the battery negative terminal.
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