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  #21  
Old August 18th, 2015, 09:54 PM
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Tom Rowe
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Here's what BP has to say about long term storage of diesel.
http://www.bp.com/content/dam/bp-cou...age-diesel.pdf
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  #22  
Old August 18th, 2015, 10:20 PM
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John B.
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Originally Posted by Antichrist View Post
Here's what BP has to say about long term storage of diesel.
http://www.bp.com/content/dam/bp-cou...age-diesel.pdf
That mostly relates to atmospheric storage tanks with direct venting and is also out of date. Storage in a closed vehicle fuel tank is a much better environment as there is little oxygen present. In addition, modern fuel is nearly 100% hydrotreated, which ensures that it is fully stabilized. This makes a big difference compared to 2005.
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  #23  
Old August 19th, 2015, 01:00 AM
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Jim Cheney
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Last summer I charged the battery on my tdi D90 which had been sitting in my FIL's machine shed for 4 years, turned the key, and started driving it around. I changed the oil, burned through a couple tanks of fuel driving around, and put it back in the shed. Didn't even have to change the fuel filter.
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  #24  
Old August 19th, 2015, 04:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
That mostly relates to atmospheric storage tanks with direct venting and is also out of date. Storage in a closed vehicle fuel tank is a much better environment as there is little oxygen present. In addition, modern fuel is nearly 100% hydrotreated, which ensures that it is fully stabilized. This makes a big difference compared to 2005.
Uh.........hydro treating is for desulfurization, not stabilization, right
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  #25  
Old August 19th, 2015, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
No need to change fuel or filter. Fuel does not go bad. Just drive. Change the fuel filter and engine oil after you run through a full tank. I would then also change all fluids, gearboxes, axles, brakes, clutch, coolant, power steering as you have no idea the history and the timing belt. But drive it first for a good tank to flush things out.
Don't follow this logic. I would think it makes sense to at least add an additive to the fuel tank and check all other fluid levels before running it.
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  #26  
Old August 30th, 2015, 02:23 PM
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Robin
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Guys! It was perfect! Due to both lack of time and space did I just change the battery and turned the key, it jumped right to it, running like a charm!

I drove for 20min and changed the oil and filter. Drove it home for 200km.

It's many things on my repair list before I can start to use it.

1. It's klonking and banging when I released the clutch and when I'm driving. Thought it was the UJ in the proper shaft but it seems to be in the rear diff?

2.enoying ticking from engine, stops when I press down the clutch, I think it's the brake vacuum pump.

3. Front wheel bearings and swivel joint

4. The engine still runs when I turn off the key.

6. Rear crossmember

7. Rust in the floors and doors

8. Damaged front fender.

Any ideas on nr 1?

Thank you!
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  #27  
Old August 30th, 2015, 03:59 PM
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# 1 and 2 I would check the throw out bearing
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  #28  
Old August 30th, 2015, 04:08 PM
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My clutch was stuck to my flywheel and it took some pumping to reinvigorate the hydraulics. I don't know if some fluid weeped out or what but the action on the clutch wasn't good for a few miles.
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  #29  
Old August 31st, 2015, 02:33 AM
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Clutch is working perfect, it's when I shifting gears or do heavy throttling.

Could it be the rear frame A-bolt?
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  #30  
Old August 31st, 2015, 12:32 PM
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Or one of the upper rear shock mounts
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