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  #1  
Old October 25th, 2013, 02:50 PM
K9Phil
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Stalling

I know there are lots of previous threads but I couldn't find one that really matched. My truck has started stalling on deceleration, when I get almost to a full stop or to a very low speed. It only happens if the truck is pointed downhill. Never happens on level ground or when going uphill. This started at the same time that the tachometer stopped working, though I can't imagine the two things are related. It's a 94 NAS with 72k miles. Any ideas?
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  #2  
Old October 25th, 2013, 02:52 PM
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Tach / Tachometer not working is usally a clear indication of alternator issues, or bad connections leading from said alternator.
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Old October 25th, 2013, 02:55 PM
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loose ground strap
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Old October 25th, 2013, 03:06 PM
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So, both of you are saying the two things are related? Sounds like an easy fix if its just a loose connection, where exactly is this ground strap? (Apologies for the ignorance).
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Old October 25th, 2013, 03:57 PM
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We are the same person ...we are the collective NYC Boost Club ;-)

Check the connections are good on the back of your alternator ... check for loose or dangling wires.

There is a ground strap on the back of the engine ... at least there is one on my truck. One way to check ground strap issues is to take a jump cable and connect it to the battery -ve post and the other end to the engine block ... and then try and replicate the stall.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #6  
Old October 25th, 2013, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
We are the same person ...we are the collective NYC Boost Club ;-)

Check the connections are good on the back of your alternator ... check for loose or dangling wires.

There is a ground strap on the back of the engine ... at least there is one on my truck. One way to check ground strap issues is to take a jump cable and connect it to the battery -ve post and the other end to the engine block ... and then try and replicate the stall.
That's all bad! We are Borg...lol! you will be assimilated into the NYC Boost Club! Mine wants to stall going up hill when low on fuel...but I don't think that's related...(lol)
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Old October 25th, 2013, 04:57 PM
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The ECU also provides idle assistance when the truck is coming to a halt ... the VSS indicates the slow down so the ECU can assume idle control .... you could check this with rover gauge.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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Old October 25th, 2013, 05:54 PM
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All connections to the alternator seem solid, nothing loose, nothing dangling. I just drove it over to one of the shops I use and it seems to be getting worse, now stalling occasionally on level ground. It happens as soon as I take it out of gear, under about 5 mph as I'm slowing/stopping. My mechanic wasn't working today but one of the other guys said he's almost certain the tach not working is related to the stalling and it's an electrical problem.
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Old October 25th, 2013, 06:37 PM
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Interesting, just got off the phone with the resident D90 mechanic at LR Portland and he says the two things are probably not related. He's saying the tach not working is an alternator problem as Josh said, but the stalling is probably a base idle or stepper motor adjustment.
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  #10  
Old October 25th, 2013, 06:39 PM
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Check the stepper motor.

------ Follow up post added October 25th, 2013 06:43 PM ------

A Chevy astro van uses the same stepper motor (idle control valve)
Pep boys carries them for about 15 bucks

Easy to replace...a caveman could do it...
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  #11  
Old October 25th, 2013, 08:10 PM
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Tach not working indicates a fault in the alternator which, if it has a bad regulator, can cause havoc and all sorts of weird faults.

Figure out why the tach is not working asap. Check the connections on the tach first.

If the stepper motor does not fix it, I would replace the alternator.
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Old October 25th, 2013, 10:13 PM
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Roger that, thanks guys. If I have to replace the alternator, is there any real advantage to going aftermarket (Mean Green, etc.) or is that overkill? I only have a couple of Hella 4000 and soon a winch.
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  #13  
Old October 26th, 2013, 07:32 AM
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Yes, take your alternator to the local start repair shop, they should be able to repair it. I had the alternator from my classic rebuilt, I believe the output was increased to 120amps,
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Old October 26th, 2013, 08:22 AM
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Since it's a '94 I'd be suspicious of the ignition module -- has it been retrofitted with the ignition module relocation kit? Bad voltage regulators in the alternator can kill the module producing similar symptoms. There's a good diagnostic procedure for troubleshooting the ignition system in the workshop manual, but of course it's success is dependant on you performing the test when it's acting up. If you do want to start playing the parts replacement game, I'd start with an alternator rebuild (which you likely need anyway with the tach acting up), just ensure that if you're having it rebuilt locally that they replace the voltage regulator as some shops that aren't familiar with the internaly regulated alternators don't do this apparently. From there I'd look into replacing the ignition module and/or installing the relocation kit (STC1856 if memory serves). If you do some hunting around you can build the relocation kit yourself, but it's likely easier just to buy it and install it. While you're at it do cap/rotor/plug wires/plugs and stepper as well.

I spent a lot of time and money tracking this down on my old '94, with any luck this will get you up the learning curve quickly.
Good luck!
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  #15  
Old October 29th, 2013, 02:02 PM
K9Phil
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So, I've been out of town since I last posted and my truck has been sitting in the garage. I started it up to drive it to the shop this morning to get looked at and the tachometer was working and no stalling. I drove to several places where it had stalled previously and it wasn't coming close to stalling. I guess the good news is now I know the two things are related. Outside of that, I'm not sure what to think now.
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  #16  
Old October 29th, 2013, 02:20 PM
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Double check all ignition connections and use dielectric grease.
Also, I used a Lucas ign mod from RN, a fraction on the genuine price.

Best of luck!
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  #17  
Old October 29th, 2013, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K9Phil View Post
Interesting, just got off the phone with the resident D90 mechanic at LR Portland and he says the two things are probably not related. He's saying the tach not working is an alternator problem as Josh said, but the stalling is probably a base idle or stepper motor adjustment.
don't mess with base idle until everything else is known to be good ... otherwise you'll just be masking issues.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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