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  #1  
Old June 24th, 2004, 12:57 AM
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Brian OShea
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Question Stainless Steel Hardware Kit

Has anyone installed the stainless steel hardware kit from Atlantic Britich or MotoSource? If so, how time consuming/difficult is the install?

Thanks,
Brian
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  #2  
Old June 24th, 2004, 08:28 AM
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David Marchand
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Don't bother. Swap some bolts and go back and forth to a Marine store. The big bolts and most of the cost in the kit is for stainless bolts that replace your roll cage bolts, and door hinges. This is a mistake. Your replacing grade 8 hardware with stainless stuff that might be Grade 5 or less. You'll find it cheaper to source what you need locally as well.
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  #3  
Old June 24th, 2004, 08:54 AM
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You should be able to get a list of what you need from the Part Sub. table (http://www.defendersource.com/tech/part_sub.html). Look towards the bottom for the bolt replacement list.
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  #4  
Old June 24th, 2004, 09:14 AM
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I've always thought it better to take your hardware and galv-electroplate them.
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  #5  
Old June 24th, 2004, 11:38 AM
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The AB (motosource) kit doesnt specify whether it includes high-strength bolts for the rollcage, and such bolts are available. The Totally Stainless catalog has a whole line of high strength (grade 8+) stainless bolts.
Regardless of what the kit includes, you can buy stainless fasteners much cheaper even as open stock. All of motosources prices seem to be aimed towards the people that were willing to pay 45k for a d90.
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  #6  
Old June 24th, 2004, 02:12 PM
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I contacted totally stainless a few weeks back based upon the link/list we have here on the site. Some of the bolts indicated didn't make sense to him, and he was sort of confused--not having time to discuss with him...my order's gone un-filled. My fault, not his.

He is interested in creating a series of "packages" for say the doors, hood, etc. And possibly one master package...and yes, he was MUCH cheaper than the stainless packages offered on the Rover sites.

If anyone's interested, I'm sure we could have a D-90 Source only package that he'd be ahppy to do...I just didn't have the time/initiative to be the one to advise him.
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  #7  
Old June 24th, 2004, 02:25 PM
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I'd be interested as long as the Grade of the bolts was the same!

EwS
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  #8  
Old June 24th, 2004, 03:09 PM
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Count me in too!
Does anyone have access to a "totaled" Defender? Remove one of each size bolt and ship it to Total Stainless. Just an idea......

Eric-S.
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  #9  
Old June 24th, 2004, 03:29 PM
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Oddly enough, I've been compiling a list. In fact, I even wrote TS a few weeks back and asked if they wanted the list so that they could put something together, and I havent heard back from them.

I'm in the middle of a Rover rebuild and am trying to use stainless where ever it is possible because I so hate corrosion.

I've been working my way through the chassis and suspension components, and have a lot compiled. The only thing I'm unsure of is whether or not it will be OK to use SAE equivalents for all the metric sized bolts in the suspension.

Determining sizes is easy, all it takes is a cheap caliper and thread pitch guage from Sears. Well, that and some time...

I propose a project where we divide up the defender and create a master fastner list. It will be a great resource in and of itself - If we can get TS to do us a kit price, so much the better.
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  #10  
Old June 24th, 2004, 03:38 PM
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Does TS do Tork fastners like on the rollcage? I think hex heads or anything else would look stupid.

EwS
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  #11  
Old June 24th, 2004, 04:03 PM
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The dont have TORX in the high-stregnth line, but they offer custom stuff (incl blackened stainless), so maybe where there is demand, there would be a willingness to produce. There is a 12-point socket head bolt though, which could look fine.

That being said, I do not actually know the grades of the OEM fasteners on the roll-cage. Also, i think the motosource kit doesnt have torx bolts, just hex ones. Hex probably would look fine painted black.
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  #12  
Old June 24th, 2004, 04:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Oddly enough, I've been compiling a list. In fact, I even wrote TS a few weeks back and asked if they wanted the list so that they could put something together, and I havent heard back from them.

I'm in the middle of a Rover rebuild and am trying to use stainless where ever it is possible because I so hate corrosion.

I've been working my way through the chassis and suspension components, and have a lot compiled. The only thing I'm unsure of is whether or not it will be OK to use SAE equivalents for all the metric sized bolts in the suspension.

Determining sizes is easy, all it takes is a cheap caliper and thread pitch guage from Sears. Well, that and some time...

I propose a project where we divide up the defender and create a master fastner list. It will be a great resource in and of itself - If we can get TS to do us a kit price, so much the better.

Most Bolts have a rating on the head of the bolt. Standard bolts have either 2, 3, 5, or 8 lines going outward on the top of the bolt head, and Metric bolts have a # like 8 or 10.

Here check it out

http://euler9.tripod.com/bolt-database/22.html

http://www.sizes.com/tools/bolts_SAEtork.htm
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  #13  
Old June 24th, 2004, 05:42 PM
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What a timely thread. I need to replace a bunch of rusty bolts, but I'm balking at paying $300 for a bunch of bolts! The TS package sounds great. Sign me up!
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  #14  
Old June 24th, 2004, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hippert
Most Bolts have a rating on the head of the bolt.
Yeah, I'm tracking on that Mike, but the roll cage bolts only say "T-O-R-X" very faintly across four of the little star points. If there is some other convention for Torx bolt grading, I'm not familiar with it.

I'll copy my list so far into XL and email it to you Mike. I dont think users can post files other than pix right?
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Old June 24th, 2004, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Yeah, I'm tracking on that Mike, but the roll cage bolts only say "T-O-R-X" very faintly across four of the little star points. If there is some other convention for Torx bolt grading, I'm not familiar with it.

I'll copy my list so far into XL and email it to you Mike. I dont think users can post files other than pix right?

HMMM not sure of the grade myself but, as I always do, If you don't know put a grade 8 in. Not sure if you can upload an XL file, it's not in the list. You can post a zip though.
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  #16  
Old June 24th, 2004, 09:23 PM
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Looks like I can attach PDF's, so I've done so.

This takes awhile, so I've attached my work on just the rear suspension, but you can see how I'm trying to organize this effort.

It would be great if someone could verify my size assessments, and it would be truly excellent if I could include the OEM sizes in my document, so if someone has a list, I'll do the data entry.

I'm guessing there would be pretty decent demand for appropriately priced stainless fasteners in the correct grades all packaged up according to major assembly.
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File Type: pdf D90 Stainless Fasteners.pdf (49.9 KB, 242 views)
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  #17  
Old June 24th, 2004, 10:14 PM
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I don't know...all this aggravation. I mean, why stainless? You still have to be careful to isolate it from the other metals.

I'm tempted to try and electroplate the stock hardware and then even coat it that black plating. Certainly a bit of zinc and a battery are much cheaper than going all stainless. And you keep the grades correct.
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  #18  
Old June 24th, 2004, 10:16 PM
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WOW Jim! You realy are measureing everything! I would compare it to mine but allot of the bolts have been replaced, and may not be the normal size. Well I guess it doesn't hurt to check, I'll have a look over that stuff this weekend.
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  #19  
Old June 24th, 2004, 11:01 PM
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It might be easier to remove the rusty bolts, clean them with a sand blaster or other similar method and put a coating of POR-15 on them. After POR-15ing them, you can shoot them with the original color paint, reinstall and forget about them. I've used the stuff on Land Cruiser restoration projects and have been amazed at how it works. I put some on a front bumper I intended to use later on but didn't, left it outside on the ground for a year or two, and no rust anywhere the POR-15 was.
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  #20  
Old June 24th, 2004, 11:09 PM
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Look, remove them, dip them in a rust stopper and then dip them in a zinc solution and plate them. that's it! Painting the threads with POR or anything else as thick would remove the paint. The plating adds nothing to the thickness of the threads - heck, they're already galvanized.

You can then paint the heads before fitting or just plate everything with black phosphate.

This costs next to nothing compared to the absurd stainless kits.
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