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  #21  
Old June 24th, 2004, 11:28 PM
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Hey, I think it would be cool at least to have a list of bolts, sizes, and bolt head sizes, so when you need to replace something you can just pull up the master list and go to the store. As far as galv vs stainless, well I have had bad luck with both after a winter or two of salt bashing up here in NH, my best luck so far has been to cover the bolt in some good anti seize.
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  #22  
Old June 25th, 2004, 12:20 AM
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Yes, a list of sizes is always good.

As far as corrosion, spray on some Corrosion-X. It sticks like crazy and prevents galvanic reactions. One or two applications a year in all seams and hardware and it lasts.
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  #23  
Old June 25th, 2004, 01:16 AM
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If someone is willing to put together the group order...please count me in. I just purchased another Defender from the East Coast that's been attacked by rust in these areas.

Thanks guys!
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  #24  
Old June 25th, 2004, 09:30 AM
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Coating your current stuff is great if you dont mind pulling your truck apart piece by piece, but I need new hardware anyway since I'm assembling a second chassis from scratch. I love the POR15, and I'm painting almost everything with it, including the already gavanized chassis.

I'm going to keep working on the fastener sizes, and anyone who wants to help is more than welcome to.

Any opionions on using the fractional sizes as opposed to the OEM metrics? The only place I can see it mattering at all are places where fasteners go through bushings, like on the rear radius arm to axle bushing.
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  #25  
Old June 25th, 2004, 09:44 AM
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Count me in too. I need to replace my hood & door bolts.
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  #26  
Old June 25th, 2004, 09:52 AM
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JinC,

Since you're starting from scratch then all the more reason - IN MY OPINION - to coat new hardware.

I see lots of folks enamored with stainless stuff, even replacing with lower grade. How smart is that?! It's looks over function as far as I'm concerned.

I say black phosphate coated new hardware is best, and you don't get that shiny, "pretty" look from stainless. For me, black looks best with all D90 colors.
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  #27  
Old June 25th, 2004, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artm
JinC,

Since you're starting from scratch then all the more reason - IN MY OPINION - to coat new hardware.

I see lots of folks enamored with stainless stuff, even replacing with lower grade. How smart is that?! It's looks over function as far as I'm concerned.

I say black phosphate coated new hardware is best, and you don't get that shiny, "pretty" look from stainless. For me, black looks best with all D90 colors.
black phosphate Is that like anodizing or something? How do you do it to bolts you have?
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  #28  
Old June 25th, 2004, 10:02 AM
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Rich Campbell
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I agree I would perfer black. Where is a good place to get such bolts? HomeDepot?
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  #29  
Old June 25th, 2004, 10:20 AM
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I did aluminum anodizing way back in the 70's. All I needed was: battery charger, sulfuric acid, water, black dye and some aluminum foil. Mix dye and water, pour in acid , put in bucket, negative lead of charger attached to aluminum, positive to part. Turn on charger. When bubbling (hydrogen) stops remove and put in cold water. Took about 30 minutes, if I recall.

Don't recall all the details but that was pretty much it. I did it to brackets so it was easy to hold the part. It may be tricky to do it to small items like hardware but it's worth a shot.

I'll look into doing non-aluminum stuff.
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  #30  
Old June 25th, 2004, 11:07 AM
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Not to be gratuitously contrary, but I'm sticking with the stainless bit because I do not want to get into the unscietific process of home-electroplating. High strength bolts especially are susceptible to Hydrogen Embrittlement (just do a web search) from electroplating and I'm not going to take (however small) the risk by modifying certified, graded fasteners.

I really dont care one way or another about the color of the finish - silver, black, gold etc, I just hate rusted fasteners. On the roll-cage, I may just paint the head of the bolt black so that it doesnt appear out of place. For low-strength applications, TS has a line of blackened stainless.

And I most certainly would not replace any graded fastener with one of a lesser grade simply for aesthetics sake, thats just plain dumb.

I'll keep making my list, and when I'm done, whoever wants to can jump in on an order.
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  #31  
Old June 25th, 2004, 11:56 AM
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Keep me posted Jim.

Thanks in advance :-)
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  #32  
Old June 25th, 2004, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Campbell
Jim
I agree I would perfer black. Where is a good place to get such bolts? HomeDepot?
I like Home Depot for some things, and certainly spent enough time there over the past year with a house remodel and the aftermath, but they have a lousy nuts and bolts section.

OTOH, there are a couple of Ace Hardware's in the area that have remarkably good selections of hard-to-find nuts and bolts.

However, for specialty stuff like this (high-strength stainless, 12-point heads, etc.), it's going to be mail-order; or maybe industrial supply houses like Grainger.
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  #33  
Old June 25th, 2004, 03:24 PM
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I spoke with George at RoversDownSouth this morning and he carries all of the stock replacement hardware for about $1-2 a piece.
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  #34  
Old June 25th, 2004, 03:58 PM
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I have gotten many obscure screws and bolts for my 90 from ACE hardware
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  #35  
Old June 25th, 2004, 04:22 PM
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Yeah, George is the man. If I get discouraged I'll just get all my bolts from him. I'll let them rust before I electroplate them though.
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  #36  
Old June 25th, 2004, 08:10 PM
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There must be a process where you can dip them in a solution and deposit a thin oxide on them, perhaps through two chemicals. Anodizing aluminum is easy but I don't know of a similar process for steel. I once heard of black steel which sounded good - a black "oxide" on steel.

I wouldn't wait for rust to develop first though as you face a cleaning problem then.
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  #37  
Old June 25th, 2004, 08:48 PM
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Eastwood Auto
Black Metal Oxide Finish
Works pretty good. I am not sure how long it will last.
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  #38  
Old June 25th, 2004, 08:58 PM
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I get the feeling that the eastwood product is largely cosmetic. They state also:

"This system is appropriate for applying a non-dimensional black oxide finish to steel and iron. This system is NOT for use on aluminum, brass, copper, or stainless steel. Steel and iron parts to be blackened need to be thoroughly cleaned by removing all grease and other coatings down to bare metal. "

The info goes on to say that "properly sealed" parts have passed an 80-hour salt spray test, but i'm guessing the sealer is doing most of the protecting.

I'm usually not terribly happy with the durability of any eastwood products.
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  #39  
Old June 25th, 2004, 10:36 PM
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If you're really concerned about corrosion, I wouldn't recommend Black Oxide (even professsionally applied). I've used a variety of finishes in the work I do, and black oxide is really just an aesthetic coating. Here's a description of Black Oxide from a plating vendor: "A uniform black coating for ferrous materials. Mostly a decorative coating. Only very limited corrosion protection under mild conditions".
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  #40  
Old June 26th, 2004, 12:16 AM
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I found it very hard to find that thread in Tallahassee, Florida..., went to the marine store, home depot, loew's, ace hardware, stainless steel bolt companies, and they were no where to be found. The people I spoke with at the stainless steel bolt companies told me i'd have to order 100 or more.

I ended up only needing the door bolts for now, all of the others seemed fine, so I called the guy who owns MOTORSOURCE.com (who is the manufacturer who supplies the other companies listed with the 'stainless steel bolt kit' $299.00) and asked him if he could JUST send me the 16 stainless door screws & associated hardware & snaps for the door. I got them shipped for $50, a little high, but it was almost impossible for me to get. And if I did by chance buy some off the internet from some 'unknown' vendor I might have been disappointed and would have had to return them anyway. With motosource's, they were perfect quality.

So, it was easy. Couple of extra bucks, if that.

Coincidentally, in this months issue of Land Rover Enthusiast in Dave Barker's 'tried, tested & recommended' section he lists a company who sells a door bolt kit for under 15 pounds. There is no web-link but however a phone #: 01924 430006 in Dewsbury, UK called LANRO 4x4.

Could be worth a look.

Hope this helps.

Nicholas
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