Stainless door hinge bolts and other rust - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 18th, 2006, 10:34 AM
rustydefender
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Russell Newton
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Stainless door hinge bolts and other rust

When I was last washing the my 90 I noticed a few rust spots. Most obviously the door hinges and hood hinge bolts they still seem to serve their purpose well but I am tired of rust running down onto my white paint. More disturbing however is the bottom of my rear door has some good sized holes rusted through it. Is that part of the door supposed to be steel? I suppose i will need to cut out the rust and weld in a patch but should I use steel or aluminum? Back to the hinge bolts. Is it possible to pick up ss bolts at a harware store or do I need to order them. If so, from where?
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  #2  
Old July 18th, 2006, 02:07 PM
Eric Siepmann
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Eric W. Siepmann
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www.mud-uk.com.

Check the EE site they have the stainless replacement bolts. You will have to replace the captive nuts in the bulkhead though to use the kit. And your hindges will still rust unless they are the ne bush'd type.

EwS
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  #3  
Old July 18th, 2006, 03:06 PM
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Moto-Source makes a full SS hardware kit. Atlatic British sells them.

Rover makes new style hinges that rust less. Most Rover suppliers sell them like RBN or RDS
http://www.eastcoastrover.com/Hinges.html

Moto-Source also had some billet hinges if you want that look.
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  #4  
Old July 18th, 2006, 03:10 PM
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Bryan Tate
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I think he clipped a porn link...this one is less interesting but has the hinges

http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/Stainless_...er_Hinges.html
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  #5  
Old July 18th, 2006, 05:55 PM
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Stephen Whitaker
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Holy patooties, 294 pounds for hinges (even nice looking ones) !!! I reckon I will have to put up with a few rust spots a bit longer.
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  #6  
Old July 18th, 2006, 07:26 PM
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Russell Newton
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289.95 for a bunch of hardware? No one can mark things up like atlantic british! Anybody know any cheaper sources?
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  #7  
Old July 18th, 2006, 07:42 PM
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$290 is almost as ridiculous as that www.mud-uk.com. link
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Old July 18th, 2006, 07:46 PM
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Go to www.fastenal.com They are an industrial supplier of hardware, including SS bolts, washers, nuts etc. They sell in bulk. That is where I purchased all of my hardware for my D90.
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  #9  
Old July 18th, 2006, 08:24 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Do a search here and you'll find all the McMaster part numbers for making your own stainless kit. You have to order the stuff bulk, but the stuff on the market is expensive. I was able to do a group buy on hardware and get a super-comprehensive kit to everyone for under 100 bucks.
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  #10  
Old July 19th, 2006, 08:58 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustydefender
289.95 for a bunch of hardware? No one can mark things up like atlantic british! Anybody know any cheaper sources?
Try also nutty.com and there is always some s/s stuff
for land rover in eBay motors UK .

Follow-up Post:

Another s/s source close to you (Miami Lakes):
www.smallparts.com
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  #11  
Old July 19th, 2006, 09:04 AM
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Can the hinges be dismantled? If yes, then do it, shave a bit of the lower mounting point and fit a HDPP (high density polypropylene) washer. That will prevent the rubbing of metal there and stop the rust.
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  #12  
Old July 19th, 2006, 10:42 AM
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Russell Newton
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what about the bottom edge of my rear door? Anybody else have a rusting problem there?
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  #13  
Old July 19th, 2006, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artm
Can the hinges be dismantled? If yes, then do it, shave a bit of the lower mounting point and fit a HDPP (high density polypropylene) washer. That will prevent the rubbing of metal there and stop the rust.
Not without some serious grinding to make space for the washer and new fabrciation on the pin and such.
The new design cures all that for not too much money (IMO), but then again I just buy the Moto-Source SS kit for 250 because there is no way I'm going to spend all that time sources nuts and bolts. Call me crazy, but time is money.
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  #14  
Old July 19th, 2006, 12:24 PM
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Bryan Tate
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My body shop did it a few months ago. At least they said they were going to and as far as I know they tried to.
It seems to help, but I still have rust coming out of the bolt holes (even with SS hardware) I think there is some bare metal inside or the process of getting the bolts tight scratched off the paint inside the hinge.
I could ask them (Glenn the owner of Cannons Auto in Wilmington, NC) how he did it......
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  #15  
Old July 19th, 2006, 12:34 PM
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Isn't it the metal pin inside the hinge itself that's oxidized and not the hardware? I was looking at my hinges and couldn't find any rust due to the hardware.

DJ
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  #16  
Old July 19th, 2006, 01:00 PM
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He thought the friction of the upper/lower hinges caused metal dust that rusts?
I the rust I have now is from the water getting in the bolt area....
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  #17  
Old July 20th, 2006, 09:07 AM
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The factory hinges have crap paint on them. When you tighten down the hardware (SS or otherwise) it basically "twists" all the paint and primer off the hinge under the screw head. Then you get rust bleeds.
Make sure the head of the screw going in is small enough not to wreck the paint as it goes in, and use a little lite grease on the mating surafce so that when you tighten the screws it won't twist all the primer off. On the door side put the screws in the hinges, then don't twist them, Tighten the door side by turning the nut, not the screw (keeps the paint and primer in tact). You'll need better than factory paint and primer on the hinges as a start though.
No matter what you do with the old style hinges (unless you take tem apart and re-engineer them) they will rust. Before the new style came out we tried taking them apart, putting in a washer, using a SS pin, dunking them in epxocy primer, etc etc etc etc. Rust always came back. With the new hinges and proper paint and assembly we have 110s (white, easy to see rust) that have been out there a few years and the hinhes still look cherry.
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  #18  
Old July 20th, 2006, 11:03 AM
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HI - I have a question on this issue.

I have many rusty screws over my truck as well. My D-90 looks pretty good - BUT it has never been in a garage and has other spots of rust on the back bumper, door handles, front brush bar, footwells, etc. I plan to replace my fuel tank skid plate soon as well.......

I am going to slowly start replacing pieces on my vehicle due to rust over time. I know this. I am not too worried about the cosmetic issues, as the truck has been outside for its lifetime. BUT here is my question:

Except for looks, HOW LONG will it take for rust to eat through these screws (for instance, the door hing screws)?? Has anyone replaced them because they snapped off?

I was under the impression that rust actually quickly got on the surface of exposed, unprotected steel, but then formed a bit of protective coating. It would eventuly eat its way through, but not for a long time. How long have all us outside Defender owners got???

Flagg
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  #19  
Old July 20th, 2006, 02:16 PM
artm
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http://www.corrosionx.com/
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  #20  
Old July 22nd, 2006, 10:44 AM
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I use waxoil. The inner chassi/body type wich has a consistency much like a thick Pledge look to it. ..sparingly.
Everything else I have used doesn't stop the dreaded rust bleed from the hinges. I also spray it underneath the body cappings and in strategic spots on the interior and inside door panels.
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