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  #1  
Old July 14th, 2009, 11:37 AM
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ST tire carrier, galvanizing of

I have a ST tire carrier and I want to hot dip it. One member who has done it has already told me he would not do it again. Anybody else done this and have experience/advice to share? I am hesitant to open holes in it etc per the company that is doing the work.

Also planning to do the tdi gearbox crossmember, a set of wolf rims, an NAS rear bumper, and a few other items. Part of me wonders if it is worth all the time and effort.
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  #2  
Old July 14th, 2009, 12:07 PM
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It was just a PITA to get all tapped out and drilled out where the bushings are etc. I am probably overreacting because I did not have the right taps or the big die to do the studs so I wasted a lot of time and it cost some serious dollars to get it blasted.

A wire wheel and some epoxy black spray paint would have been nearly as effective.
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Old July 14th, 2009, 12:25 PM
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I started with the wire wheel. That was taking a long time. Charles said he paid real money to have one blasted so I did not want to go that route as I already paid $300 for the thing as is.

I decided to see if paint stripper would soften up the powder coat and it does. In some places it cleans it right off and in others it softens it enough so that a scraper will get it down to a very thin layer that can then be wire wheeled off.


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Originally Posted by evilfij
It was just a PITA to get all tapped out and drilled out where the bushings are etc. I am probably overreacting because I did not have the right taps or the big die to do the studs so I wasted a lot of time and it cost some serious dollars to get it blasted.

A wire wheel and some epoxy black spray paint would have been nearly as effective.
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  #4  
Old July 14th, 2009, 12:31 PM
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Well, if I were just painting it, I would not have removed all the powdercoat just the stuff that was peeling or rusty and then sand the edges to blend and spray with epoxy primer the whole thing and then epoxy black top coat. The worst part is, mine was not even rusty, I just did it for the bling.
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Old July 14th, 2009, 01:32 PM
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I just did mine, I drilled 2 holes in the bottom prior to taking it in (one in top tube one in bottom tube). The place did not see the holes and drilled 2 holes in the top of the carrier so now I have to weld them shut or rail will go it it.

Jerks
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  #6  
Old July 14th, 2009, 02:25 PM
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welding will mess up the galvy obviously. can you use plastic plugs?

did you take the bushings out too?

Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas
I just did mine, I drilled 2 holes in the bottom prior to taking it in (one in top tube one in bottom tube). The place did not see the holes and drilled 2 holes in the top of the carrier so now I have to weld them shut or rail will go it it.

Jerks
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  #7  
Old July 14th, 2009, 02:46 PM
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yep, took out the bushings.

going to weld and then powder coat or weld it and take it back to the galvy place with a note showing the holes are already drilled
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Old July 14th, 2009, 02:46 PM
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I did not take the bushings out of mine (they were sufficiently stuck and survived galvanizing).
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Old July 14th, 2009, 03:34 PM
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Did they get coated with zinc or did they repel the zinc?
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Old July 14th, 2009, 04:05 PM
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Lightly coated and easily removed with a drill.

Ron
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  #11  
Old July 14th, 2009, 04:06 PM
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The bushings are oil impregnated and a lot of the oil boiled out so the bushing was "dry" and pock marked. Definitely still "Ron good" though.
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  #12  
Old July 14th, 2009, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Definitely still "Ron good" though.
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Old July 14th, 2009, 05:01 PM
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We've established "Jim good" and "Ron Good" as standardized assessments of quality. "Jim Good" parts must be functionally and aesthetically intact and within original spec. "Ron good" parts merely cannot have failed yet.
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  #14  
Old July 14th, 2009, 05:21 PM
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Ron Good: it functions
Jim Good: functionally and aesthetically intact and within original spec.
ECR: new or rebuilt to new or better
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  #15  
Old July 19th, 2009, 07:49 AM
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I do these several times a year.
1. burn the powder coat (so it will sandblast easily = cheap if you pay for that)
2.sandblast
3.drill your own holes so it will sink, and vent, when dipped in zinc (if you can't figure this out you shouldn't be driving) also the galvy shop will "drill" holes with a torch.......which will lewk like piss.
4. Remove the bushings.......then you wont have to ruin your galvy job to remove the bushings when they wear out.
You can re-cut (well, ream) the bushing tubes with a (I think) 1-1/4" hole saw (measure the bushing). It will only be cutting zinc and goes through like butter.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
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  #16  
Old July 19th, 2009, 09:21 AM
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Dave, why do you want to galvy your wheels?..
I would not go through that process for my tire carrier personally. I'd send out for powder coat. The last thing I want to do is to add more weight to the back of my truck, and more so add weight to a carrier that already is a piss poor design....IMO.
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  #17  
Old July 19th, 2009, 10:32 AM
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thanks guys. glad the maine contingent could weigh in. i was gonna leave the bushings in to save cleaning out the holes but i like the hole saw idea. i hadn't though about the weight factor of adding a layer of zinc. hopefully it will drain through all the holes I've drilled in it.

i've alwasy wanted to galvanize a set of rims because they are always rusty and always seem to leak around the bead or the valve opening. I might not do em this time around, we'll see how far i get with stippage as we are on a short timeline.

powdercoat seems pretty expensive around here, and requires sandblasting for prep which is also expensive. I have a small home handyman type rig but doing a whole piece would take forever. I use a wire wheel, and paint stripper to get in the corners. it will lift the powdercoat. I use the blaster to get into any corners that the other stuff won't get to. and the galvanizing provides better long term protection thab the powder coat, at least in my mind.






Quote:
Originally Posted by EWR
Dave, why do you want to galvy your wheels?..
I would not go through that process for my tire carrier personally. I'd send out for powder coat. The last thing I want to do is to add more weight to the back of my truck, and more so add weight to a carrier that already is a piss poor design....IMO.
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  #18  
Old July 19th, 2009, 11:42 AM
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The rims can be a bad experience if the galvanizers are idiots, which is common from what I hear. They NEED to be able to flip them around when they come out of the bath or you're stuck using a torch to remove zinc drips and then sanding things and I can tell you this is NOT fun... it also led to my NATO being my winter rims (now that they are all painted they look pretty good) and a set of ZU sitting in Bristol hopefully boarding a ship sometime VERY soon. (I am going nuts waiting and just finished my major work for the year so itching to get re-assembling things).
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  #19  
Old July 19th, 2009, 06:15 PM
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One option for removing rust and flaking paint is to use a needle gun. Works great, takes some time, but gets back down to the metal. You can buy cheap ones at HARBOR FREIGHT. They work with an air compressor...ship yards use them for preparing metal before welding. I have used one for redoing a trailer frame as well as a lumber rack on the ol pick up.
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  #20  
Old July 19th, 2009, 10:44 PM
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I would not run galvanized rims unless I was running tubes. There is a set of 16in wheels that have traded hands a few times in the club because no one can get them to hold air.
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