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  #1  
Old December 5th, 2004, 12:13 AM
javelinadave
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Springs & Shocks Install Tips

I am going to throw on a set of OME springs & shocks tomorrow. Any pointers or tips that anybody wants to share? Any mistakes that anybody has made and wants to help me avoid??? Thanks......
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  #2  
Old December 5th, 2004, 01:16 AM
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Dennis Meek
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Just make sure you have a good set of spring compressors. Also, make sure that you get the springs on the correct side of your truck as they are side specific. The longer springs go on the drivers side. It is a pretty easy job.

Best of luck,

Dennis
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  #3  
Old December 5th, 2004, 08:06 AM
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Dave, you don't need a spring compressor. Just put a floor jack under the rear axle and jack the truck up then put jack stands under the frame just infront of the rear links. Remove the rear tires and shocks. Now lower the axle with the floor jack until the springs just fall out. Replace with new springs and jack it back up... Install the shocks and its time to do the front. Do it the same way. It is very easy and I did it several times with no problems at all.
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Old December 5th, 2004, 09:34 PM
javelinadave
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Thanks Dennis and Randy!
It was pretty easy and I did not need spring compressors. I would say the hardest part was re-mounting the cooling overflow tank once I re-installed the front right shock tower.
If anybody is thinking about ditching the factory springs and shocks I would encourage them to do so. It rides better, corners better and most importantly it looks better! www.BritishPacific.com had the best price out there and the had everything in stock.
Happy holidays to all................
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  #5  
Old December 5th, 2004, 10:18 PM
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Ken Loy
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Dave, an alternative to Randy's idea would be, instead of using the floor jack, put the truck on stands, then use a bottle jack on the side of the axle you want to remove the spring. It won't take much to give you the room to remove the spring.

Also, if you set the springs on a bench, you'll see that one is longer than the other and that they cant one way or the other. Like Dennis said, put the longer ones on the driver's side, regardless of how it's marked (LH or PS). OME makes them for LHD vehicles. (Someone pipe in if I got that wrong) Put the springs in so the cant, left and right, is toward the center of the truck. I don't really think it matters much if the cant inward or outward, just so that they're consistent.

For the front right, you'll need to remove the coolant resevoir to get to the top nut.

And of course, since its a Rover, either hit the nuts with a bunch of de-rustifier or use an air hammer.

I've attached a bunch of pics that show the various stages. You should be able to figure out which is which.

Follow-up Post:

I see that Dave already finished his project, but here are a few pics for posterity (and for the next guy that asks):

Oh, and regarding the bottlejack/floorjack ideas, if you use a highlift on one side at a time, then you don't need either.
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  #6  
Old December 6th, 2004, 07:57 AM
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THe hardest part for me was removing the front shocks. THe lower mounts had to be cut off with a sawzal.
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  #7  
Old December 6th, 2004, 08:10 AM
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EEK! look at the break line in pic #5! Although in pic 6 it is not as stretched but I think at this point longer break lines would be a good thing as they should not be the limit for down travel. Looks like it's about to snap! I also like pic 2 and 3, looks like some painting at the same time. And it must be nice to work in a shop with a lift.
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first then ask questions later! The loose nut behind the wheel
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  #8  
Old December 6th, 2004, 07:06 PM
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Also if the top nut for the front shocks are being difficult undo the 4 bolts that hold the shock tower inplace and remove it with the shock. I ended up doing that.
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  #9  
Old December 6th, 2004, 10:10 PM
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Russell Newton
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Talking

which set did you get exactly factory replacement heavy duty etc? I the ride height increased? I have been thinking about getting these myself and you seem to be satisfied so what did you get?
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  #10  
Old December 6th, 2004, 10:53 PM
javelinadave
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Springs - OME 751 for the front and 764 for the back
Shocks - OME N45 for the front and N46 for the back
Steering Damper OME SD32
Talked to Marty at WWW.BritishPacific.com
He was very helpful. It came to $639 + shipping.
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  #11  
Old December 6th, 2004, 10:56 PM
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Rusty, HD in the front and MD in the back is the way to go with a ST and HD/HD for the SW. I think you'll get about an 1-1/2 out of the new setup.
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  #12  
Old December 7th, 2004, 12:36 PM
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Are the SW hardtops heavy enought to warrant a HD/HD setup? or are you using the SW to tow a trailer, etc.?
I was just about to order a set of HD front and MD back for my SW, but now I'm thinkin' about the weight issue a little bit.
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  #13  
Old December 7th, 2004, 01:43 PM
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Dave Souza and Ken traded springs when we were at Rausch creek a month or so back. Ken has a ST, Dave has a SW, Ken had HD springs in the rear, and Dave had MD in the rear. Ken thought his was a little stiff and Dave thought his sat a little low when loaded for the trail. So at camp the swapped springs! The reports I got were that they were both happier with each others springs. I don't think SWs are that much heavier, but I think people with SWs tend to carry more stuff thus the HD springs.
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  #14  
Old October 2nd, 2005, 08:28 PM
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I am in the process of swapping out springs/shocks per these recommendations with a new OME setup. Rear springs came out without too much trouble, however I am currently in a holding pattern due to the the lower mounts being completely frozen up. I have run out of time this weekend for the fronts and the rear shocks, but will be utilizing the aforementioned sawzal technique for removal of rear shocks. I currently have everything back together (new rear springs/old shocks) and the vehicle is definately higher on the passenger side. I am almost positive that I got the longer spring on the driver side. My question is (before I swap sides on the springs just to see how it looks) could the driver side shock being completely "dead" (I can compress it all the way by hand with next to no effort) account for the 0.5 or so inches the drivers side is lower.


My Plan is to cut out the old shocks and fit the new to see if this "corrects" my lean. Does this make any sense or should I just switch them left to right and to see if I accidently switched them up? I am very pleased with the difference in ride hight as I went from 19" from the center of the wheel to the eyebrow to 22" (22.5 passenger side).
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  #15  
Old October 2nd, 2005, 10:18 PM
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David Shechter
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a new shock is not going to help out the height. I would swap the springs from side to side. It does sound like your shock is dead, you should see a huge ride difference, smoother and more responsive, less bouncy.
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  #16  
Old October 8th, 2005, 09:04 PM
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Rusty Turrets

Rears are in, but once I got up front I have notices that my shock towers (turrets) are pretty rough. I can always replace with stock, however wanted to get some feedback on other options on what to look at, or what to avoid. My basic criteria is ease of use/install and durability.
Thanks,
Matt
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  #17  
Old July 29th, 2006, 08:28 PM
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Finished my OME lift install today. Went with 751 front and 764 in the rear (HD/MD). Had to use Randy's sawzall technique for the front shocks and ended up removing the towers then cut the shock in half to get it out without having to remove the upper access cover in the engine compartment. Also part of the install was a RN bumper and a Husky 10. When all was said and done, I got an average 1.75 inch of lift and the rig sat very level. Oh, no spring compressor needed either and I have a SW.

I put the 255/85R16s on for a total combined lift of 3.75 inches (ground to centerline of wheel well flare was avg of 37 3/8 inch). I've posted some pics on the 255/85R16 thread for the before and afters of the tires.
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  #18  
Old July 30th, 2006, 01:06 AM
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I have had OME HD in the front of my 90 for about 6 years now. I recently replaced the rears with MD.
The rear is about 2" higher still. I am beginning to wonder if the front need replacing as well. I guess they could be worn out and sagging a bit, but I'm not sure. Could I replace the front springs with my HD rear springs, or are they not interchangeable?
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  #19  
Old July 30th, 2006, 11:39 AM
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did you use any spring packers or those rubber donuts EE sells.
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  #20  
Old July 30th, 2006, 12:44 PM
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No, I haven't.
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