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  #21  
Old August 29th, 2011, 06:38 AM
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Just polish the turd. Owning an 83 110 you will be a master polisher in no time.....and I say that with no disrespect intended.
I've been doing some pretty ridiculous polishing of late and there are a bunch of enthusiasts still driving (safely) without having had to spend anywhere close to a frame swap. Take your time and get back to something that is solid, which is generally there somewhere.
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  #22  
Old August 29th, 2011, 07:03 AM
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But take a look at a disco 1 and I expect you'll find those sections are identical. You should be able to find those bits locally off a disco in a junk yard

Thanks Charles, The disco ones are completely different.
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  #23  
Old August 29th, 2011, 08:16 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Originally Posted by Jpayne View Post
I like what you did with your trailer Charles and have been thinking of that since you posted sone of your build photos. Is that operational now?
It's been functional for a few years, but I need to complete it. I can't park it in my driveway due to HOA restrictions and don't want to take up a garage bay to work on it (the only way I can make time for it is to peg away at it, an hour here or there). But I am building a garage addition, so hopefully in a few months I'll finish her up. Having used it quite a bit I am considering making some changes like building a custom frame to shed some weight and lower it, and going to a standard trailer axle to get e-brakes, but we'll see.
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  #24  
Old August 29th, 2011, 12:44 PM
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Would i be any better off if I cut the side of the frame out and replaced that as a panel or just slap a piece over all the existing mess?
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  #25  
Old August 29th, 2011, 12:48 PM
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This may help.
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  #26  
Old August 29th, 2011, 01:08 PM
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Ha! I should get some of that.

Here's a mythbusters segment where they really do polish a turd

http://dsc.discovery.com/videos/myth...ng-a-turd.html
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  #27  
Old August 30th, 2011, 08:33 AM
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Would i be any better off if I cut the side of the frame out and replaced that as a panel or just slap a piece over all the existing mess?
Cut everything out that is not good metal, but I think you have plenty of good metal left there that's worth keeping. Treat as well as you can inside before closing it up.

Don't listen to the naysayers. Polish away!
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  #28  
Old August 31st, 2011, 09:43 PM
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I need to get new bump stops. Should I get the extended ones or just regular length? I am adding new terrafirma shocks and springs all the way around which should give me about +2".

In the front I am considering the shock turrets instead of the factory cones. Again, should I get standard, lowered or lengthened ones? I don't want to do anything crazy with the overall geometry so I'm trying to figure out how to not screw things up.

Thanks. Hopefully some day I will be able to answer questions instead of asking so many.

Jeff
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  #29  
Old September 10th, 2011, 03:43 PM
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I got quite a pile of rust off during this process! It went pretty good overall though.
I'm still wondering if anyone has input on my questions above. I'm about to place an order for bumpstops and towers. Just wondering what the benefits are of having the standard tower vs. short ones. same for rear upper shock mounts.
Thanks
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  #30  
Old September 11th, 2011, 05:25 PM
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Looks great! Couldn't answer your questions other than pull the springs and force a compression on one side and extension on the other and increase if your shocks bottom out before you hot the stop.

hth
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  #31  
Old September 11th, 2011, 05:33 PM
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shorter front towers are for folks that buy taller springs but don't buy longer shocks.
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  #32  
Old September 11th, 2011, 10:41 PM
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Perfect. Thanks guys. I'm going to order some of the tube shock towers in front since my cone towers are so rusty that I don't want to mess with them.
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  #33  
Old September 23rd, 2011, 06:17 PM
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Still milking this thread and project...

I'm wondering if this setup is correct. Installed the tube shock towers, springs and shocks. The springs are about two inches shorter than the shocks whithout compression. The new springs are supposed to be part of the kit that offer a two inch lift but they are actually a tad shorter than the stock springs. part number appears to be correct.

Under compression it will be fine but under articulation the spring will be flopping around. Shouldn't this kit work together where the shock will not allow the spring to have any freeplay or is this ok?
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  #34  
Old September 23rd, 2011, 08:45 PM
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I'm no expert by any means, but I don't think that looks right. From the looks of it you have a standard 9-coil stock front spring (I run the same) and the unburdened height of the new spring should at LEAST be the same as the old spring...a spring flopping around at articulation is not a good thing - you run the risk of it not seating properly when it comes back down (though a small risk), but more importantly something looks "off". Did you verify the TF coil spring you ordered was compatible with a 110?
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  #35  
Old September 23rd, 2011, 09:05 PM
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It says TF018 and corresponds to their 90/110/130 medium spring with 2" lift.

http://www.terrafirma4x4.com/product...p?cat=2&grp=43

I have seen the dislocation cones for extreme articulation situations but this hardly compares.
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