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  #41  
Old October 28th, 2011, 10:38 AM
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They are the 6 point small head (so a 3/8" wrench can be used on them instead of trying to fit the 9/16ths wrench on the stock 3/8th bolts that comes in contact with the shafts. I always replace the unlock nuts, after you take them on an off a few times the nylon looses its grip. ( I do believe a 3/8"-16 thread bolt will work with any nut the grade 8's just have a greater holding strength
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  #42  
Old October 28th, 2011, 04:13 PM
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Is there a definitive answer on if the Neapco #1-0005 U joint will fit in the front and rear shafts of a 1985 110 ?
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  #43  
Old October 28th, 2011, 05:09 PM
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Someone posted that the '84 110 used 1310 series u-joints. I'd just get under and measure it.
No, you don't want to mix bolt and nut grades. When you mix grades the threads will deform and/or strip when it's over torqued. With matched grades the bolt will fail if it's over torqued.
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  #44  
Old October 28th, 2011, 06:46 PM
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I ordered the ones you speak of and they didn't fit my stick driveshafts. In the end I found these, Part No. 1-0153 neapco ujoint. The Neapco PDF lists this particular part for trucks in the 63-85 year range on page 282.

Mine is an 83.

I would also measure first on my own to verify.
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  #45  
Old October 28th, 2011, 08:32 PM
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Quite stange the Neapco site lists:
1948-1962 as U joint #1-0005
1963- 1985 as U joint #1-0153 ***
1986- 1998 as U joint #1-0005
* use U bolt 1-0089
*use strap 1-0022 w/ 1/4"- 28 bolts
*use strap 1-0024 w/ 5/16"-24 bolts
first observation is they reversed back to the orinal size u joint they started with
second observation is the Rovers using U bolts and straps are the ones with 1-0153 Ujoints, No U bolts and straps should mean the #1-0005
Jeff did your '83 use U bolts and straps ?
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  #46  
Old October 28th, 2011, 08:59 PM
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Mine look like this
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  #47  
Old October 28th, 2011, 09:08 PM
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strange dont see any U bolts or straps as Neapco made note of
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  #48  
Old October 28th, 2011, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Velardi View Post
Quite stange the Neapco site lists:
1948-1962 as U joint #1-0005
1963- 1985 as U joint #1-0153 ***
1986- 1998 as U joint #1-0005
* use U bolt 1-0089
*use strap 1-0022 w/ 1/4"- 28 bolts
*use strap 1-0024 w/ 5/16"-24 bolts
first observation is they reversed back to the orinal size u joint they started with
second observation is the Rovers using U bolts and straps are the ones with 1-0153 Ujoints, No U bolts and straps should mean the #1-0005
Jeff did your '83 use U bolts and straps ?
Yes, Land Rover started out with 1300 series u-joints, went to 1310's, then back to the 1300 series in many applications.

As far as I know they were always retained with snap rings. I'm not aware of any that used u-bolts to retain the caps.

'85 was right around when they were switching so an '85 may or may not use the larger 1310 series. See post #23 for dimensions and other makes of the 1310.

------ Follow up post added October 28th, 2011 09:44 PM ------

Looking at the Hardy-Spicer catalog 84-86 Defenders used 1310 series, '86 onwards 1300 series. So it sounds like they switched mid-year '86.
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  #49  
Old October 28th, 2011, 09:58 PM
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Trying to eye them up or measure with caliperes when they joints are still in the U joints is near imposible I'm hoping mine are the 1300's (I still have a stock of Spicer 5-4x's to do the job, and only have one 368 and one 0153HD . I'll rip them out tomorrow and see.
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  #50  
Old October 29th, 2011, 08:43 AM
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Just remember, if it's 1310 series and you go for the PDQ labled u-joints don't get the 1-0153, get the 1-0154.
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  #51  
Old October 29th, 2011, 09:52 AM
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What's wrong with the 1-0153?
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  #52  
Old October 29th, 2011, 09:52 AM
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The small ones are 2 15/16 cap end to to cap end. The bigger one is 3 7/32. Pretty easy to tell them apart that way, even when they are already installed. Pretty sure that Series II and early IIa used the small joint, but as stated here they went to the bigger one and then back to the small one. My 90 came with both sizes. My 109 has a SIII rear axle and DS so uses the larger joint. Front uses the small. In other words, you don't really know what you are going to find on a n+ year old truck.
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  #53  
Old October 29th, 2011, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpayne View Post
What's wrong with the 1-0153?
Post 23.
The PDQ boxed ones, sold at Advance Auto, are made in China. The PDQ boxed 1-0154 are in less demand and so Neapco just reboxes their own US made ones as PDQ. The same as they do for the 1-0005 1300 series.
There's nothing wrong with 1-0153 in the Neapco boxes.
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  #54  
Old October 29th, 2011, 12:11 PM
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Here's how to measure the length of the in place U joint. 1st clean-up the ends fairly well with a wire brush. 2nd take 2 small diameter sockets or 2 nuts (that will stick up higher than the yoke) and determine the total combined length with your caliper. Place the sockets/nuts, one on each end, of the U joint. Make sure the sockets/nuts are not sitting on top of the retaining clips. Measure the Over All Length (OAL) with your caliper, this will give you a very close OAL to a "book" length. 3rd subtract the length of the sockets/nuts from the total, this will leave you with the length of the U joint. For the diameter of the cups, measure the inside diameter of the CLEANED yoke hole with your caliper. Now go to the Neapco charts.

I have a factory 1997 D90 parts book and even it had the wrong U joints spec'd for mine ('97 w/ L230Q). The ones spec'd in my NAS D90 parts book must be for a manual trany. Also all 4 of my joints are the same, where as "The Book" had 2 different joints spec'd and both were wrong !
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  #55  
Old October 29th, 2011, 02:01 PM
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The cup diameter is the same on the 1300 and 1310 series to fit the Land Rover.
Also, if you look at the two u-joint cap to cap measurements, it should be fairly obvious which you have just measuring across the yoke.

Oh, just to confuse things further, it looks like TD5's used 1330 series on the front, STC4807 which is 3.622 cap to cap.
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  #56  
Old October 30th, 2011, 11:15 PM
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My 110 ended up having the 1310's front and rear. My rig has been modified though it started life as a Td in Ireland and was converted to a V8 with Lt77 (unfortunately replacing all the U joints did not stop my 35 to 55mph vibration that just started....
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  #57  
Old October 31st, 2011, 08:49 AM
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Have you tried driving it with first one, then the other propshaft removed? Just to rule out propshaft out of balance. Thrown weights aren't unheard of. If it does go away, and the propshaft is balanced, it could point to something like a bad output housing bearing.
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Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
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97 D1 Automatic
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  #58  
Old October 31st, 2011, 09:23 AM
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I have been dealing with this on my Classic, no amount of u-joints could fix the problem. Driveline shop said the shaft was balanced/true. It really is frustrating as there are so many variables that can contribute, good luck.
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  #59  
Old October 31st, 2011, 10:14 AM
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I replaced the front shaft with new joints from one I picked up at Rovers North on Saturday ( the play I thought was in the splines of the front shaft appears to be in front diff) No change , then I replaced the rear shaft U joints (go lucky had 2 spare joints in stock) still no change. (Tonight I may take out the front prop shaft ( diff locked high) and see if it has an effect. Just not sure if the front diff has too much play, if the vibration will go away if the prop shaft is removed?
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  #60  
Old November 2nd, 2011, 09:33 PM
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Took off the rear shaft , vibration went away... now to find a shop to balance it.
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