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  #1  
Old May 21st, 2013, 08:27 AM
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Solex Carbs

My Solex carbs have clean oil but Im not real sure how to tell whether the oil is at the proper level. I've put about 600 miles on the truck recently and I can tell it is running a little rich and at higher revs. From what I've read most have suggested to be sure the dash pots have oil before messing with anything else.

If I were to fill until I can see the the oil at the top of the pot do I risk damaging anything?

Thanks
Clay
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  #2  
Old May 21st, 2013, 09:42 AM
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if there's too much oil it'll probably just blow out the little vent hole. What are you using for oil? I always used ATF, but there is an actual dashpot oil you can get. The oil is really just there to dampen the movement of the piston. Since the piston movement also controls the jet opening and hence the fueling, I don't think low oil would cause a rich condition at full or part throttle. Now, if the needles or orifices were worn, that may be allowing more fuel than necessary into the combustion chamber. If hat was the case, you could always send the carbs out to get rebuilt.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 09:51 AM
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Yeah, I agree, it really doesnt make sense that low oil would make a big difference. I just figure this is the simplest first step to take. I've read here 10w motor oil and ATF works. I also read Dave Short warns not to use brake fluid. I'm thinking I'll add a little at a time and see what happens. Would love to avoid a stupid mistake if I can help it.

Clay
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  #4  
Old May 21st, 2013, 12:23 PM
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Clay, I attached the pages from the factory manual dealing with that topic, plus I found this:





http://www.team.net/sol/tech/fluidcht.html





Carburetor Piston Dampers

Factory recommendations may be motor oil, or special damper oil.
  • Solex Carb or SU Damper oil, available from some mail-order places.
For light damping (faster response):
  • Marvel Mystery Oil (very good for this application)
  • Automatic Trans Fluid
  • 3 in 1 oil
For moderate damping:
  • 20 or 30 w Engine Oil
  • 20-50 wt Engine Oil


Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
Yeah, I agree, it really doesnt make sense that low oil would make a big difference. I just figure this is the simplest first step to take. I've read here 10w motor oil and ATF works. I also read Dave Short warns not to use brake fluid. I'm thinking I'll add a little at a time and see what happens. Would love to avoid a stupid mistake if I can help it.

Clay
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Def_90_110_WSM_book1 51.pdf (1.07 MB, 316 views)
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File Type: pdf Def_90_110_WSM_book1 60.pdf (567.7 KB, 43 views)
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  #5  
Old May 21st, 2013, 02:21 PM
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Perfect DB! Will wing it tonight.
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  #6  
Old May 21st, 2013, 07:25 PM
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DB, thanks! That did the trick. I filled the pots to about a half inch from the top with 3 in 1 and there was an immediate difference at idle. Took it out for a run and the difference so far is amazing.

Clay
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Old May 21st, 2013, 08:30 PM
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Great, glad to hear it! When all else fails, RTFM...
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Old May 21st, 2013, 09:21 PM
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Try This, Clay.

Remove the carb connections to the air cleaner so as to expose the bare side of the side draft. When the engine is not running and the carb fluid damper is off lift the piston and be sure it drops all the way home without getting stuck. It should drop and end with a clunk.

If it stops along the way and gets stuck before going all the way down, you'll need to inspect the needle and jet to make sure the needle isn't bent and the jet is centered.

Then fill the piston center oil reservoir with ATF and lift the piston to the top of it's travel and hold it while you push the plunger (attached to the top of the piece that screws onto the top of the carb) down. When the ATF reaches the top of the piston center oil reservoir, then extract the damper and wipe it off with a clean rag (do not use paper products and make sure the rag is lint free). Repeat until you can insert the damper without overflowing the piston center oil reservoir. While as Dave suggested the oil will work it's way out, it can also pick up dust particles and thicken with the engine heat and cause the piston to stick (not a good idea).

Start the engine. At idle lift each piston about 1/16".
If the idle increases and then stumbles, the mixture is dead on.
If it increases, then it is too rich.
If it stumbles and idles down, too lean.

Adjust the seat to set the mixture.
Lowering it increases fuel and raising it decreases fuel.
While adjusting remove the damper and move the piston up and down and make sure it drops home with a clunk.

Inspect the air cleaner and if it is dirty replace with a new air filter.

Hope this helps.
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Old May 21st, 2013, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Remove the carb connections to the air cleaner so as to expose the bare side of the side draft. When the engine is not running and the carb fluid damper is off lift the piston and be sure it drops all the way home without getting stuck. It should drop and end with a clunk.

If it stops along the way and gets stuck before going all the way down, you'll need to inspect the needle and jet to make sure the needle isn't bent and the jet is centered.

Then fill the piston center oil reservoir with ATF and lift the piston to the top of it's travel and hold it while you push the plunger (attached to the top of the piece that screws onto the top of the carb) down. When the ATF reaches the top of the piston center oil reservoir, then extract the damper and wipe it off with a clean rag (do not use paper products and make sure the rag is lint free). Repeat until you can insert the damper without overflowing the piston center oil reservoir. While as Dave suggested the oil will work it's way out, it can also pick up dust particles and thicken with the engine heat and cause the piston to stick (not a good idea).

Start the engine. At idle lift each piston about 1/16".
If the idle increases and then stumbles, the mixture is dead on.
If it increases, then it is too rich.
If it stumbles and idles down, too lean.

Adjust the seat to set the mixture.
Lowering it increases fuel and raising it decreases fuel.
While adjusting remove the damper and move the piston up and down and make sure it drops home with a clunk.

Inspect the air cleaner and if it is dirty replace with a new air filter.

Hope this helps.
Since when do you dick around with Rover v8's ?
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  #10  
Old May 21st, 2013, 11:09 PM
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Side Draft Carbs...

I try not to not drive much of anything petrol powered V8...
BUT
The first vehicle I owned with side draft carbs was a 1952 MGTD in 1970.
Granted they were SUs, but the the Solex and Stromberg side drafts were much the same.
AND
For the next 40+ years it was MGTD, MGYB, MGA, MGZB (Varitone), MG Magnette MK III, MGB, MGBGT, and finally MGYT.

We still have The ZB varitone (the rarest of post-war sedan models) a 1952 TD, a 1947 YT (the rarest of 4 seater post war convertables), and 1970 MGB.

One had to tune the side draft as a necessity...

In 1978, my friend Dave Barrows called and asked if I would come by his place at 86st in VA Beach and tune the carbs on his Healey Silverstone D9. At the time my girlfriend went off to the beach while I tuned Dave's carbs and we went for several test drives. The Riley engine in the Silverstone ran like a clock after 2 tuning sessions. A few years later Dave called and Said he had sold his Silverstone to Stan Healey, grandson of the original builder. Dave also had an MG TD, TF, and VA. Which I would also drive occasionally.

Same carbs, different engine!
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #11  
Old May 23rd, 2013, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
My Solex carbs have clean oil but Im not real sure how to tell whether the oil is at the proper level. I've put about 600 miles on the truck recently and I can tell it is running a little rich and at higher revs. From what I've read most have suggested to be sure the dash pots have oil before messing with anything else.

If I were to fill until I can see the the oil at the top of the pot do I risk damaging anything?

Thanks
Clay
Let us know if you get this sorted.
Robert
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RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #12  
Old May 23rd, 2013, 10:17 AM
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Apologies Robert, I didn't get the usual email notice what there were responses to my post for some reason. As a result I'm just now seeing your advice. Thanks for your help on this btw. Everything you've said makes sense to me. Once I have a bit of time I'll heed the advice and report back on my progress/results.

Im sure the pistons will not drop in just on their own without a little assistance. The pistons resisted this way when they were apparently low on oil as well. Given you've suggested ATF, I should figure out a way to drain the pots and start from scratch. Otherwise i could have a cocktail of three different types of oil in there (the original stuff, the 3 in 1 stuff i added this week and the ATF as you suggessted).

I really look forward to getting these things humming. I like the simplistic experience diesels provide off-road but the daily driving and errand running I tend to do with two growing/active boys make a v8 with a 4 speed is easy street by comparison.

Clay

Clay
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