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Old November 29th, 2012, 09:25 PM
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So the engine is toast where to go from here

The 3.5 is dead, cam is worn out, I can develop more compression with a good fart and the blow by is epic.

I'm leaning towards three courses of action.

1. Find a good 4.2 swap over the carb and head down the road. Seems to be hard to find in the Chicago area.

2. Take the 3.9 out of my old RRC (not the Hunter) do the gaskets and put a cam in it, maybe some headers swap the carb on.

3. Buy a good 3.9 from PT Schram swap over the carb and head down the road.

I'm assuming that I will have to swap the front cover on either motor or am I mistaken on this?

Both of these choices put the possibility of swapping in a LT230 and ZF at the same time. If I go with the 3.9 I'll more than likely go that route since I'll be pulling the engine out might as well swap the ZF while I'm pulling the parts. I have a LT230 sitting in the garage ready to go already.

Would the swap to the ZF cause problems with the tranny tunnel?

As a whole I need to keep costs at a minimum so "TDI Time" is not the answer right now. Wife would kill me and she is currently taking this well so I don't want to push my luck.

I'm planning to tow it to the Auto Craft Center for the work, heated bay with a lift $40 for the week and take leave so I can concentrate on getting it back on the road quickly.

Thoughts or options I'm missing? Other things I should do while the motor is pulled.
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  #2  
Old November 29th, 2012, 09:54 PM
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3.9 and 4.2 v belt engines are same front cover. Lt95 floor tunnel fits nicely over zf. I am doing one now myself. You will have to use the rangie front drive shaft and may have to have a custom rear made up.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 10:00 PM
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Tough break man.
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  #4  
Old November 29th, 2012, 10:06 PM
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Such is life Max, but I appreciate the condolences

Doug good to know, I was hoping the rear shaft wouldn't require major mods. Would it be just a yolk swap or cutting the shaft? For the front wouldn't you need to go with a disco 1 shaft due to the LT230?

I was assuming to keep the accessories in the same spot as the 3.5 I would have to use that front cover instead of the 3.9/4.2 cover.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 10:15 PM
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Doesn't it already have an LT230, wouldn't the drive shaft be an easy swap?

Id do a 4.2 or 4.6 I am ure the triumph/tr6 guys have a good recipe for a carburated Rover V8. I think some tuning would be needed. That 230 cam makes power, you might can go bigger since you have no EFI. Don't ruin that engine with a ZF!!
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Old November 29th, 2012, 10:21 PM
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i believe the LT95, is the transmission and transfer case together? and i would just put a 3.9 carb'd into it and keep the lt95
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Old November 29th, 2012, 10:22 PM
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It has a LT95, which is a 4 speed with integrated transfer case. So I would have to put in a LT230. The ZF isn't a bad trans, plus it would make the 110 easier for the wife to drive.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 10:24 PM
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can't say for certain the mounts for the different front covers are the same, why not just transplant complete 3.9 in and worst case have custom steering lines made ? They aren't expensive @ any Parker dealer and better than oe.

If you swap to lt230 then yeah you will need a d1 or defender front shaft. For the rear guessing the lt95 shaft won't be long enough and clearly the classic one will be way too short. That said diff lock is your friend until you get a rear shaft cobbled up.
FYI-I used the rangie tubular cross member too.
Keeping the lt95 is obviously the fastest and cheapest way to go but if you pull the 3.5 and tranny as one chunk like I do then you can lift in the 3.9 and zf in the same way. If it was me I'd bolt the lt230 on first as well. Do you have anyone who can help with the in and out ? 2-3 guys makes that part go a lot smoother/quicker.

That lt95 is friggin heavy
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Old November 29th, 2012, 10:31 PM
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Was the tubular cross member a necessity or did you use it because it was in better shape? I have a compete RRC to pillage for parts so..

I'll have one helper (my dad he likes to tinker) we will also have a lift available and tranny jacks etc.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 10:42 PM
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smaller in diameter and allowed me to use the rangie y pipe and cats which was important because the truck is going to live in Ca.

Don't chuck the vacuum difflock switch/knob that bolts to the seat box if you ditch the lt95. My son is running the same tranny and his switch is problematic.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 10:50 PM
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Don't think I'm going to bother with the cats, can't imagine they were any good anyways.

Doug, thanks for all the help and insight over the last couple days it's been much appreciated. Let me know what you find out on the rear drive shaft when you get to that point.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyRover View Post
Don't think I'm going to bother with the cats, can't imagine they were any good anyways.

Doug, thanks for all the help and insight over the last couple days it's been much appreciated. Let me know what you find out on the rear drive shaft when you get to that point.
On the cross member I think the tube is stronger and it makes exhaust plumbing easier.I'm working with lwb 4.2 stuff so that shaft should be close to the same and work in the 110.

Keep in mind if you go zf you will need to rig up the cooler in the front as well, no big deal just more atf mess. I hate the smell of dexron/mercon.

No problem man-thats what this site is all about.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 11:01 PM
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I would replicate the position of the LT230/ZF in a NAS 90 and find a NAS 110 stock rear drive shaft if you are going down that road.

As far as motors, most 3.9/4.2 will have issues, but nothing a top end rebuild (including cam and lifters) won't fix. Probably want to check the oil pump gears and main bearings for wear too. LRover has a 110 that he fit a 4.6 short block to that is set up with all the stuff off the original 3.5. That is what I would do and not muck about swapping transmissions or anything else if the LT95 is still good.

Personally, I love 14CUX and hate carbs so I would go whole hog and put in an efi 4.2, but that means fuel lines, pump, tank and a whole lot of wires.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 11:04 PM
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Damn Bill... So sorry to hear about your truck! I guess on the bright side, it looks like you have a non-running Rangie that you can cannibalize. If you want to keep the costs down, using the 3.9 will more than likely be the cheapest route.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 11:09 PM
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Actually the old Rangie is a runner but you fall out of the truck through the holes in the floor lol. I'm going to pull all the FI parts for a later date project. Preferably in the summer when I'm driving the MGB instead
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Old November 29th, 2012, 11:19 PM
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Bill, will a 4.0 not work? I'm buying my brother's running D1 with a good engine. Haven't decided to keep it or part it yet. I could be swayed to part it if you want the engine.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
I would replicate the position of the LT230/ZF in a NAS 90 and find a NAS 110 stock rear drive shaft if you are going down that road.
Mounts and holes in the frame are exactly the same so he won't have any issues/choice replicating position. Bet he can have a shaft lengthened far cheaper than buying a NAS 110 one. Building a custom shaft with new yokes etc runs around $250. When I twisted the 130 rear in half I went to a heavy truck place and requested thick wall tube and it ran $200 re-using the ends.
LRover/Mikes truck is a couple years newer and has an lt85 5spd/lt230. He seems happy with the 4.6 4bbl setup and built it himself.
I was @ Will Tillery's place last week and was checking out his 130. He stroked a 4.6 to 5 liters and is running that into a zf and using a gems setup. I would have thought converting from tdi to a gems setup would be a wiring nightmare. Will just shrugged his shoulders when I asked him about it.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 11:30 PM
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Brett, as far as I know a 4.0 would work aside from having to swap it over to run a distributor. How many miles, headgaskets been done, the ever important how much lol. Need heavy duty GBR front axles in trade? lol
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Old November 30th, 2012, 12:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyRover View Post
Brett, as far as I know a 4.0 would work aside from having to swap it over to run a distributor. How many miles, headgaskets been done, the ever important how much lol. Need heavy duty GBR front axles in trade? lol
I'm heading to his place in Oak Park next Sunday after the holiday party. Going to toss an extra starter in it and drive it home. I can get all the details then. I drove it last summer and it ran very strong.
Mmmmm, front axles.
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Old November 30th, 2012, 07:51 AM
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I am converting a 3.5 to the 3.9 14CUX in the 110 to get the fuel injection. The wiring, on paper, is pretty simple. At any rate you may be able to find a Discovery as a donor with everything you need to do the swap. Some of the older Discovery's can be had for next to nothing.
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